Terrible Dyno Numbers - Please Help!!
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2008 CLS63 AMG, 2008 Cadillac Escalade, 2006 BMW 325i, 2004 BMW 545i, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
Terrible Dyno Numbers - Please Help!!
Okay...here goes. Took my charcoal filters out last weekend, sent my ECU to Renntech on Monday. Received it back Thursday and installed it. Took car to have it Dyno'd and the best run I had was 400.8 rwhp in fourth gear. The highest horse power I got in second was 383.3. My worst run was 371. The other two were 378 and 395. Are these numbers not terrible for a car with an upgraded ECU? My car has 1050 miles on it so I hope that maybe the numbers will improve later, but I never expected them to be this low. And before you ask, I am absolutely positive the car was in DYNO mode. Can somebody help me....PLEASE??!!!!!!
Runs in order....371, 378, 383 (third gear)....let car rest 20 minutes ran 400.8and then ran another immediately after at 395.6.
Runs in order....371, 378, 383 (third gear)....let car rest 20 minutes ran 400.8and then ran another immediately after at 395.6.
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2008 CLS63 AMG, 2008 Cadillac Escalade, 2006 BMW 325i, 2004 BMW 545i, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
How I got my car in DYNO Mode
I have read a couple of different descriptions on how to put your car a car in Dyno mode. I own a 2008 CLS63 AMG and this is how I put my car into Dyno mode today. It took about an hour. I had to do a mixture of what Renntech explained and what I read on a previous thread, but this is exactly what worked for me:
Turn key to first position.
Toggle menu (with steering wheel controls) to show outside temperature
Turn key to off position
Turn key back to first position
Press the odometer trip reset button three times rapidly
The screen should now show battery voltage
Now toggle until you see Dynometer on/off
Use the plus/minus key on your steering wheel to highlight on
Turn the key starting the car
If you have done everything correctly the screen should read:
BRAKES
EBV/ABS/ESP
Inoperative
Diagonisis/Rig Test
I hope this is helpful to those having difficulties getting in Dyno mode using other methods. I feel that different year models might have different procedures. Also if you are experienced and reading this please read my previous thread about my terrible dyno runs today and tell me what he hell I can do!
D3
Turn key to first position.
Toggle menu (with steering wheel controls) to show outside temperature
Turn key to off position
Turn key back to first position
Press the odometer trip reset button three times rapidly
The screen should now show battery voltage
Now toggle until you see Dynometer on/off
Use the plus/minus key on your steering wheel to highlight on
Turn the key starting the car
If you have done everything correctly the screen should read:
BRAKES
EBV/ABS/ESP
Inoperative
Diagonisis/Rig Test
I hope this is helpful to those having difficulties getting in Dyno mode using other methods. I feel that different year models might have different procedures. Also if you are experienced and reading this please read my previous thread about my terrible dyno runs today and tell me what he hell I can do!
D3
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Oh I wanted to add that I thought maybe the guys dyno machine was incorrect, but this guy really knew his stuff. He told me he has dyno'd several 2007 BMW M5's and they all dyno'd out around 415. How can this be? My car is supposed to have 7 more horsepower straight from the factory and it ends up having 15 less. Not to mention the ECU upgrade and the removal of the carbon filters? What is going on? This is driving me absolutely CRAZY!!!! HELP!!!!!
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Lotus Elise SLK55
Keep in mind that a lot of stock 63's dyno below 400whp (380whp and 385whp on dragtimes), so yours is definitely not the only one. BTW, 400whp translates to about 480bhp, so you're not that far off 500hp if that makes you feel any better. IMO, you should've just bought a 55 if you wanted high hp and torque numbers 
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I was under the impression that 63s had more stock horsepower than the 55. I thought it was 479 stock for the 55 and 507 for the 63. I understand that these numbers are on the fly, but I would expect the whp to be 80% stock. Since I have sent the ECU to Renntech, I would have expected numbers around 440-450. I have seen dyno results posted on this thread of a CLS63 at 430 with just taking out the charcoal filters.
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Lotus Elise SLK55
I was under the impression that 63s had more stock horsepower than the 55. I thought it was 479 stock for the 55 and 507 for the 63. I understand that these numbers are on the fly, but I would expect the whp to be 80% stock. Since I have sent the ECU to Renntech, I would have expected numbers around 440-450. I have seen dyno results posted on this thread of a CLS63 at 430 with just taking out the charcoal filters.
All dyno's are different, some read higher than others and external factors like temperature and elevation can affect hp. In general though, 55 engines dyno higher than 63 engines are respond much better to mods (because you can easily increase boost pressure). On a naturally aspired engine, you will not gain much hp from an ecu tune... if you want meaningul gains, I suggest you do headers and exhaust system first. All these tuners who claim 20-30hp gains from ecu tune are full of it.
P.S. You should also search the E55/E63 section of the forum for more info on 63's dynos and tuning options for 63 engines.
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V12-Biturbo
I was under the impression that 63s had more stock horsepower than the 55. I thought it was 479 stock for the 55 and 507 for the 63. I understand that these numbers are on the fly, but I would expect the whp to be 80% stock. Since I have sent the ECU to Renntech, I would have expected numbers around 440-450. I have seen dyno results posted on this thread of a CLS63 at 430 with just taking out the charcoal filters.
The kicker is the torque the 55 rwto is commonly 450-480 rwto! Stock!!What was your RWTO?
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SL65 AMG
It may be bad tune. You should try putting the ecu back to stock and dynoing the car again. If it is at 380-385whp then you know the tune was good but if it is 400whp or more you know you have a bad tune. Where did you get the tune at?
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2008 CLS63 AMG, 2008 Cadillac Escalade, 2006 BMW 325i, 2004 BMW 545i, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
I got the ECU upgraded by Renntech. I have heard nothing but good things about them, but I am not seeing results. I hate to have it changed back after spending $3500 to have it the work done. I did race a Mustang Cobra tonight. Had the car in Dyno Mode at a 60 mile per hour punch and blew him away. We went from a punch 3 times and the third I let him get over a full car length ahead and went and got him. It was like he was sitting still. The car felt great! I hope that it was just the wrong time of day, wrong dyno, wrong temperature or something else that went bad. I am sure this is wishful thinking and that even with poor rwhp for a 63; it would blow a Cobra away. Do you think the mileage being so low on my car has something to do with it? Do you think it may not have broken in fully? Or am I just hoping wishfully?
Thanks for the response,
D3
Thanks for the response,
D3
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2008 CLS63 AMG, 2008 Cadillac Escalade, 2006 BMW 325i, 2004 BMW 545i, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
Ricker,
Does this mean that off the showroom floor the E55 can blow away the CLS55 or CLS63? I am not asking this with any sarcasim because I do not know. Even though I am a CLS63 owner, I am very objective. If I would have known that there were so many more mods for the CLS55, I very well may have purchased one of those. Please be objective with your answer.
D3
Does this mean that off the showroom floor the E55 can blow away the CLS55 or CLS63? I am not asking this with any sarcasim because I do not know. Even though I am a CLS63 owner, I am very objective. If I would have known that there were so many more mods for the CLS55, I very well may have purchased one of those. Please be objective with your answer.
D3
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CLS63
Put your car in s mode, then with shift lever put car in 1st gear then begin to give it gas never shifting into 2nd or 3rd. The car should shift into 2nd by itself at about 7200-7300 rpm and then again into third. Make sure you have the room for speed. You must run the car hard for some time to let the tune remap. I don't think Renntech even knows this. I have Headers and ECU by Renntech and have learned alot. Do not ever do a key reset. Look up my post on this. It will get better mile after mile
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2008 CLS63 AMG, 2008 Cadillac Escalade, 2006 BMW 325i, 2004 BMW 545i, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
Rarfinancial,
I am so glad you showed up. The way I ran it was in manual mode and shifted from first and second at about 4000 RPM to not strain the engine then ran it up to 7100 in third. I did the same on the run to fourth shifting 1,2, and 3 at aout 4000 and taking 4th gear to 7100. Was this wrong?
When you said do not every do a key reset, what do you mean? Where do I find your post? Thanks so much.
D3
I am so glad you showed up. The way I ran it was in manual mode and shifted from first and second at about 4000 RPM to not strain the engine then ran it up to 7100 in third. I did the same on the run to fourth shifting 1,2, and 3 at aout 4000 and taking 4th gear to 7100. Was this wrong?
When you said do not every do a key reset, what do you mean? Where do I find your post? Thanks so much.
D3
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2008 CLS63 AMG, 2008 Cadillac Escalade, 2006 BMW 325i, 2004 BMW 545i, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
Probably about 100 miles before the dyno. Did dyno the next day. Is it okay to drive the car in DYNO mode? I know it turns the ABS and other things off and that might make it less safe, but does it harm the car?
D3
D3
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CLS63
Hey, still awake trying to figure out your Beast?
I've been there
. The tune when running at 100% will shift as I stated above. When I first got the tune I thought I got a bad tune because the rev limmiter was kicking in at 6300 rpm, I was going nuts
I called the tuner called Renntech and NO one knew why
Well the more I drove the better it got. put the display in the gear and oil temp mode so you can see what gear you are in. I pushed it to 7200-7300 rpm in 1st,2nd and 3rd was hard to get to, no room but I have done it may times. The car will drive better when it learns this pattern.
I've been there. The tune when running at 100% will shift as I stated above. When I first got the tune I thought I got a bad tune because the rev limmiter was kicking in at 6300 rpm, I was going nuts I called the tuner called Renntech and NO one knew why Well the more I drove the better it got. put the display in the gear and oil temp mode so you can see what gear you are in. I pushed it to 7200-7300 rpm in 1st,2nd and 3rd was hard to get to, no room but I have done it may times. The car will drive better when it learns this pattern.
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CLS63
I wouldn't drive in DYNO mode on the street but on the drag strip? I will on the 26th at the track. ESP off is safer and fun 
.I don't think it would hurt the car driving in DYNO but HOLY sh?t be carefull.
.I don't think it would hurt the car driving in DYNO but HOLY sh?t be carefull.
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CLS63
No DYNO #'s yet but I know the feel of the car well before and after. I like the real street driving. Like, Does the car take off better? pick up speed quicker?, have better throtle response? Higher rpm? and higher top speed? Well the answer to all is YES My traction controll light comes on much easier than before the tune. I also have the headers and my car is very resopnsive. I call it THE BEAST because it like riding a bucking bronco. I will be installing a QUAFI rear diff very soon to help the wheels stick to the street. We will see what times I get on the track on the 26th of this month. See if it shifts at 7300 . Hope this helps. There are lots of post.
My traction controll light comes on much easier than before the tune. I also have the headers and my car is very resopnsive. I call it THE BEAST because it like riding a bucking bronco. I will be installing a QUAFI rear diff very soon to help the wheels stick to the street. We will see what times I get on the track on the 26th of this month. See if it shifts at 7300 . Hope this helps. There are lots of post.
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a car that gets very poor gas mileage.
Does this method apply only to those with the Renntech remapping or will the stock ECU do the same?
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No DYNO #'s yet but I know the feel of the car well before and after. I like the real street driving. Like, Does the car take off better? pick up speed quicker?, have better throtle response? Higher rpm? and higher top speed? Well the answer to all is YES My traction controll light comes on much easier than before the tune. I also have the headers and my car is very resopnsive. I call it THE BEAST because it like riding a bucking bronco. I will be installing a QUAFI rear diff very soon to help the wheels stick to the street. We will see what times I get on the track on the 26th of this month. See if it shifts at 7300 . Hope this helps. There are lots of post.
My traction controll light comes on much easier than before the tune. I also have the headers and my car is very resopnsive. I call it THE BEAST because it like riding a bucking bronco. I will be installing a QUAFI rear diff very soon to help the wheels stick to the street. We will see what times I get on the track on the 26th of this month. See if it shifts at 7300 . Hope this helps. There are lots of post.Its all about driving the car and letting it know you are aggressive.
Your car has too few miles on it. It should dyno 410-430 rwhp when you get over 3k or after driving hard for several hundred miles. Car needs significant cooling to dyno high. Oil temp on your runs should be under 70 C. Back to back will produce 5-7% decreases. A car I dynoed withhit 440 rwhp and mine hit 408. We raced and the cars were equal with a slight edge to my car at 408. Renntech will give you your monies back if you are not satisfied, won't they?
The 55 is not faster out of the box than the 63, people who say this have never ran a 63 . Any stock CLS 55 wanna shut me up we have a nice track day 10/26/2007, any E55's stock wanna show me? Its easy to talk but it is quite a bigger problem when you must actually race. The two cars are nearly identical in performance.
www.alternativemotoring.com
D3, your car will get faster and dyno higher when you put some miles on her. I agree the ECU tune alone may not produce as much as they claim...
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a car that gets very poor gas mileage.
hey D3....
Its all about driving the car and letting it know you are aggressive.
Your car has too few miles on it. It should dyno 410-430 rwhp when you get over 3k or after driving hard for several hundred miles. Car needs significant cooling to dyno high. Oil temp on your runs should be under 70 C. Back to back will produce 5-7% decreases. A car I dynoed withhit 440 rwhp and mine hit 408. We raced and the cars were equal with a slight edge to my car at 408. Renntech will give you your monies back if you are not satisfied, won't they?
The 55 is not faster out of the box than the 63, people who say this have never ran a 63 . Any stock CLS 55 wanna shut me up we have a nice track day 10/26/2007, any E55's stock wanna show me? Its easy to talk but it is quite a bigger problem when you must actually race. The two cars are nearly identical in performance.
www.alternativemotoring.com
D3, your car will get faster and dyno higher when you put some miles on her. I agree the ECU tune alone may not produce as much as they claim...
Its all about driving the car and letting it know you are aggressive.
Your car has too few miles on it. It should dyno 410-430 rwhp when you get over 3k or after driving hard for several hundred miles. Car needs significant cooling to dyno high. Oil temp on your runs should be under 70 C. Back to back will produce 5-7% decreases. A car I dynoed withhit 440 rwhp and mine hit 408. We raced and the cars were equal with a slight edge to my car at 408. Renntech will give you your monies back if you are not satisfied, won't they?
The 55 is not faster out of the box than the 63, people who say this have never ran a 63 . Any stock CLS 55 wanna shut me up we have a nice track day 10/26/2007, any E55's stock wanna show me? Its easy to talk but it is quite a bigger problem when you must actually race. The two cars are nearly identical in performance.
www.alternativemotoring.com
D3, your car will get faster and dyno higher when you put some miles on her. I agree the ECU tune alone may not produce as much as they claim...
Do you buy into the school of thought that suggests driving the car harder than the manufacturer's recommended method during the break-in period? I thought that I may have read a post of yours indicating that some of the most powerful 63's were driven hard before the 1000 mile mark.
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Sorry for going off topic, but...
Do you buy into the school of thought that suggests driving the car harder than the manufacturer's recommended method during the break-in period? I thought that I may have read a post of yours indicating that some of the most powerful 63's were driven hard before the 1000 mile mark.
Do you buy into the school of thought that suggests driving the car harder than the manufacturer's recommended method during the break-in period? I thought that I may have read a post of yours indicating that some of the most powerful 63's were driven hard before the 1000 mile mark.
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Ricker,
Does this mean that off the showroom floor the E55 can blow away the CLS55 or CLS63? I am not asking this with any sarcasim because I do not know. Even though I am a CLS63 owner, I am very objective. If I would have known that there were so many more mods for the CLS55, I very well may have purchased one of those. Please be objective with your answer.
D3
Does this mean that off the showroom floor the E55 can blow away the CLS55 or CLS63? I am not asking this with any sarcasim because I do not know. Even though I am a CLS63 owner, I am very objective. If I would have known that there were so many more mods for the CLS55, I very well may have purchased one of those. Please be objective with your answer.
D3
Basically the car comes from the fact a little rich in the Air/Fuel ratio settings, Tuners lean it out a bit which garners more ponies, as well as setting throttle response, firm up shift points etc..
I have a C6 Vette and recently got a full Dyno-Tune which gave me 20 rwhp 23 rwto not a whole hell of a lot, but what was improved dramatically (It's an automatic) was drivability, so even though the Dyno #'s weren't stellar the real improvement from a N/A tune is in the multiple other drivability settings that are tweeked.
How does the car drive post tune? Does it feel improved in any other areas like I mention above?
Having said that I too agree w/Juice & from all the info I've read on 63's your low mileage could be a culprit, but the numbers should be in the 400-440 rwhp area Stock, I would send the dyno sheet back to Renntech & ask for your money back, (Reason being the longer you wait they may refuse to refund your substantial $3500 bucks!) Then drive it a bit more like the others have said, re-dyno it STOCK see where you're at then possibly get another tune.
And don't believe the hype, NO 30+rwhp gains w/just ECU on N/A vehicles.
As far as who's faster I'd say the 55 is, but only marginally as your 63 has better top end, & better ability to launch do to much less torque = very good traction compared to the W211 E55.
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2011 twin turboed prius
1st ECU tunes on N/A vehicles (ie non Turbo or Supercharged) are going to net 15-20 rwhp in the real world, Lots of tuners say otherwise to get you to buy expensive tunes (Did you pay $3500 for just the Tune???)
Basically the car comes from the fact a little rich in the Air/Fuel ratio settings, Tuners lean it out a bit which garners more ponies, as well as setting throttle response, firm up shift points etc..
I have a C6 Vette and recently got a full Dyno-Tune which gave me 20 rwhp 23 rwto not a whole hell of a lot, but what was improved dramatically (It's an automatic) was drivability, so even though the Dyno #'s weren't stellar the real improvement from a N/A tune is in the multiple other drivability settings that are tweeked.
How does the car drive post tune? Does it feel improved in any other areas like I mention above?
Having said that I too agree w/Juice & from all the info I've read on 63's your low mileage could be a culprit, but the numbers should be in the 400-440 rwhp area Stock, I would send the dyno sheet back to Renntech & ask for your money back, (Reason being the longer you wait they may refuse to refund your substantial $3500 bucks!) Then drive it a bit more like the others have said, re-dyno it STOCK see where you're at then possibly get another tune.
And don't believe the hype, NO 30+rwhp gains w/just ECU on N/A vehicles.
As far as who's faster I'd say the 55 is, but only marginally as your 63 has better top end, & better ability to launch do to much less torque = very good traction compared to the W211 E55.
Basically the car comes from the fact a little rich in the Air/Fuel ratio settings, Tuners lean it out a bit which garners more ponies, as well as setting throttle response, firm up shift points etc..
I have a C6 Vette and recently got a full Dyno-Tune which gave me 20 rwhp 23 rwto not a whole hell of a lot, but what was improved dramatically (It's an automatic) was drivability, so even though the Dyno #'s weren't stellar the real improvement from a N/A tune is in the multiple other drivability settings that are tweeked.
How does the car drive post tune? Does it feel improved in any other areas like I mention above?
Having said that I too agree w/Juice & from all the info I've read on 63's your low mileage could be a culprit, but the numbers should be in the 400-440 rwhp area Stock, I would send the dyno sheet back to Renntech & ask for your money back, (Reason being the longer you wait they may refuse to refund your substantial $3500 bucks!) Then drive it a bit more like the others have said, re-dyno it STOCK see where you're at then possibly get another tune.
And don't believe the hype, NO 30+rwhp gains w/just ECU on N/A vehicles.
As far as who's faster I'd say the 55 is, but only marginally as your 63 has better top end, & better ability to launch do to much less torque = very good traction compared to the W211 E55.
Wow ,
This is a very well written and concise response.
I think probation is getting to you.
Great explanation and seriously well said
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From: MARYLAND
14-F Sport, 07-CLS63 2003-HUMMER 2004-Suburban 2008-MAX 2005-YZF R1
I been thinking alot about DYNO-ING my 63.... But now after reading this I think I will. Maybe today if I can get a Appointment!!! 
