notio

notio
Hello Guys, Always enjoy reading your conversation.

My CLS55 needs a complete brake job very soon and I want to try to do this myself. I've order most of parts from online, (OEM). so I could save a lot of money and it will be great fun learning about my car.

Rear rotors cost $90, Pad set $90 and Front pad set including two sensor $237 from online. Front rotor cost $129 each from the MB dealer which I thought not too bad.., but have not order yet, should it need to be replaced with all OEM brake parts?


Anyway, I have a good idea of this procedure and preparation, however there will be two big concern remain...


#1 When the caliper piston would be pushed back to reset position,if there would be any bad effect on the SBC, caused by the forced fluid pressure?

#2 I understand that a fluid needs to be flushed every two years, if so I should skip this procedure then have done by Technician, because it seems complicated job, but I should try it...?


Also If there is any good handy tool to fit AMG calipers to push those pistons?

Please share with your knowledge.

Best,

DucatiGuy

First things first... Although brake jobs are a relatively easy DIY procedure, I must insist you DO NOT attempt it, unless you have a basic understanding of how everything works and the components you will be working with.

To address your basic questions...

When it comes to rotors, be sure you're getting "premium" stuff. The cheap(er) stuff simply won't last. As for pads, you also have some options here. I've found ceramics to be a good over-all value in terms of providing good performance, while keeping things clean vs the more common (and cheaper) semi-metallic kind. Oh and stay away from the so called "race pads" if you plan on using the car on the street, as most simply do not perform until they're warmed up.

Now, when you're working on the brakes do one corner at a time. It will prevent unwanted piston excursion from the opposite side. I've also seen piston pop out, and some can be a real pain to get back in.

To compress the pistons, you can use a piston spread tool (found at most any auto shop) or even a small pry tool, with the assistance of a small piece of wood as a leverage device (never pry off the caliper itself, or you will scratch and chip it up). After you've done either the front or the rear, be sure to check the fluid levels making sure everything is where it needs to be.

A brake flush and or bleed is a bit more complicated. If you've never bled a hydraulic circuit, I wouldn't not attempt it without some sort of professional assistance. The basics of it are essentially easy to grasp, but there are certain procedures that must be followed in order for it to actually work. Failure to follow such procedures will results in interoperable or faulty brakes. Pretty much the last thing you want to happen to your AMG.

If you want the specifics on how to do it, I would be happy to share the details with you, but understand if you get lost halfway into it, you may need to tow your car to have it serviced. It most definitely won't be drivable. If anything, let a pro do it, watch and learn, and then you can do it the next time...

Best of luck...

notio

Thanks for your valuable tips. Yes I agree, towing my car to have it fixed is worst scenario. I will make sure it won't happen to my AMG. For a brake flush, I would take to the shop. Although I've bled a hydraulic system many times back in '80, but I've done only "The two man method" and those days, Brake system was very simple there was no SBC unit...

My concern is the procedure of bleed and how it may cause any effect onto the SBC unit.

I will take time to gather more info. then will challenge this task.

then I will need your help when it comes to the specifics.

Thanks again,

best,

Dogshine

with the sbc... this isn't a do it yourself at home job.....

notio

Thanks for your reply, I know SBC is my concern...,
Replacing rotors & pads are easy task. but it comes to SBC unit...,


How to deactivate SBU this is my question I've been seeking for.
Or it is OK to just replace them without deactivate the unit ?

if anybody have done this procedure, please share your experience.


By the way, I got front rotors from Mercedes dealer today.
DucatGuy gave me a good suggestion for "premium" stuff, but I don't know what and where to buy
so I got Genuine Mercedes Parts #230-421-07-12 $129 each with some discount.

I was so surprised how big and heavy they are, (weight 32 pound each).like a free weight plates at Gym.
The dealer parking lot was full so I parked on the street, then I had to carry two rotors walking back to my car.
It so easy just pay to have a brake service, then I would have not carrying a big & heavy stuff.
but that also a part of fun doing & learning..., I think.

I will update my progress.

Thanks

m_berman

Not to beat up on you, but the questions you ask are not from one that has done many brake jobs, especially on brembo brakes.

If messed up, it can become a nightmare quickly. I suggest that you get some help. A great affordable source is Alldatadiy.com. The site is a subscription site for specific model/year cars. I have a subscription for several of my autos and it provides the factory services manuals online, plus TSB and other really good stuff. Check it out.

notio

Thanks for your info. I will check it out, and I will share what I got my info. too

dacls63amg

notio, where did you purchase the front rotors? The dealer quoted me at $2100 just for the front rotors and pads? The dealer wants way too much money. Thanks!

Igor180

I believe that's because the 63's have 2 piece rotors, and they're like 5x more expensive than 1 piece rotors.

notio

Hello, Yes I noticed there are two kind rotors for CLS55 one for $129.00 plus tax a each.
and performance version (two pieces) for $850 a each, both from Mercedes dear in LA.

It would be very nice to put two pieces one, they look very nice too.
but my 55've just passed 50,000 miles so I'd prefer economy version.

Oh by the way, since I had very friendly and knowledgeable advices from experienced fellows, made me courage to completed brake job.
And the project has successfully done! No fault message.

It took me almost 4 hours.., but I took a good time of cleaning parts too.

I feel great !.

My next project is the spark plug replacement, I will up date again.

allenjdmb

but you might consider the fact that MB is warrantying all SBC brake related problems (not wear) for 100k miles. Doing that brake job yourself is going to give them an out if you have a warranty issue at all. I wouldn't take the chance. Sorry, it's just the lawyer in me.

notio

Thank you for you comment, Yes I agreed, but I took chance....,

because, I love this 55 however I don't know how long I will keep it.
2006 has already 50,000 and how much worth it would be
next year or so when I trade in to something else.

what if something goes wrong with SBC (worst scenario)
I know a person who is MB independent mechanic,
he has his connection to get me replacement SBC under MB warranty.

My E500 (over100,000miles) 3 years ago, I paid him $300 for SBCreplacement from MB dear.

So If I had 09 CLS 63, I would not even do oil change myself.

best,

notio

DACLS63, here are photos for CLS55. 63 rotors are more expensive.

Sincity

Congrats on completing it yourself because not only you saved some money, you get great satisfaction knowing that you did it yourself. What brake spreader did you get? The one I have will only allow me to spread the pistons from 2/4 piston brakes. For my C63, I will need to get another one so I can spread all 6 pistons at once (I know you can use your brake pads to assist in the spread, but since the rotors didn't need swapping, I left the brake caliper attached).

I am dreading the day I need to change the rotors on my C63..........

notio

Thank you.

It is very nice to hear your support. I feel good that I know every caliper bolts are secured.
I drive every day, there is no fault message 5th day so far and the brake works very well.

I got spreader from ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2419wt_1167
It cost $30 and very good stuff. they come with 2 different size, I picked 2"wide by 2.5" long. Although I was ready for use it,
the pistons went soft & smooth to pushing back reset by using a wider screw driver slowly & evenly so did not need to use it.
I made sure that there was no indication of leaking or the boot damaged. if so I would ready to stop continue then take it to the repair shop.

It was very simple procedure however the hardest part was to unsecured the rear caliper bolts. One of E18 torx bolts was super tough so I was almost giving up.
Also taking rear rotors out was not easy task because of rust. I wish I had the platform lifter in my garage that would make everything easy.
De-active/active SBC self test went fine, except there was no flashing on & off 3 times for confirms successful activation. I tried this procedure 4th time then flashed.
It is always unexpected happen so I'd definitely suggest that you should check those bolts first before start your project.

Here are some tools I made for this project and info. for somebody who'd like to know how.

I will support you, Good luck!

m_berman

Looks like you completed what you set out to do. Thanks for the docs.
Some questions:
1. Did you do a complete fluid flush?
2. Why didn't you upgrade to low dust pads.
3. Any problems with the brake sensors?
4. Do you have the same pedal pressure before and after?
5. How did you get that MB Discount?

notio

I checked out at Alldatadily.com, it is really good stuff, I used some info. for this project. Thank you.
I also used Justanswer.com to get help any questions, this one is good stuff too.


1. Not done yet, when it come to flush & bleed, I should take it to the shop. because it needs the bleeder unit to complete.

2. I wanted to get Akebono.., but I used genuine in this time. because OEM pad & back plate are assemble as one pice and plate has a rough texture.
I will try Akebono next time.

3. Not at all.., the front sensors came with pads set. the previous ones were almost begin to be worn out.

4. very noticeable, before feels firm and rough, the rotors were worn out. now soft but firmly feels very well, increase stopping power.
Brembo..., a huge caliper with 8 pistons, it's really something.

5. I called up local MBs Glendale, Van Nuys for quote, ($160-up) then I went to Acerdia (they are nicer) to bargain with them ($129) so I saved money for a rear sensor.
I had sense that they have over inventory in this particular item.


You are in my neighborhood city so I will tell you my funny experience at local MB. many years ago I had C43 (1st AMG and was still the best)
I took it for a maintain service at Glendale one. when I pick up my car I did not notice but driving I felt some strange
in handling right away so I looked at it, could not believe what I saw.., they rotated fronts & rear tires.
it was a rare mistake.., but basic one. I am not professionally trained just hobby but I do not make this kind of mistake either.

best,

LemondoStafford

Hi Notio, years later your info is still alive. I'm considering doing front brakes myself on this car. Mustering courage & need at this time. Thanks for your orig. write-up.

vvrjrlaw

I almost always use OEM parts especially with brakes but I departed from the norm when Brembo had a sale on its rotors. I installed Brembo rotors and akebono pads and the stopping power has increased significantly over the OEM. Now it stops on a dime and gives you 8 cents change.

khelawanb

I had the 360mm two piece rotor with Akebono pads installed today. Works really well, and looks nice !