C219 CLS55 and CLS63, 2004-2010

Light Weight Battery From Braille

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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 10:52 PM
  #1  
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Light Weight Battery From Braille

Im looking at getting a light weight battery for my car. I was looking at the 15lb one for about 275. Has anyone here have their products? If so how do you like the quality?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by dacls63amg
Im looking at getting a light weight battery for my car. I was looking at the 15lb one for about 275. Has anyone here have their products? If so how do you like the quality?
My buddy uses this 15 lb braille in his E55. Saves about 50lbs over stock. He may actually have the 6 lb, I will ask.

I would stay with the 15 lb version for the CLS
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:50 AM
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Ya that's what I was thinking. Il probably go with the 15lb one. Is it worth spending the extra bucks for the cf one?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:36 AM
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I run the Braille 17lb battery in my Crossfire............it's 2lbs more and has a lot more juice AND was only $150/shipped brand new.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 04:58 AM
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Isn't the point of the heavy battery to help offset the front to rear weight difference?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by moparrbust
I run the Braille 17lb battery in my Crossfire............it's 2lbs more and has a lot more juice AND was only $150/shipped brand new.
did you replace the Main or the Aux battery ?
can't believe you can run any accessory with that 23Ah thing when the engine is off ..
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dericious
Isn't the point of the heavy battery to help offset the front to rear weight difference?

Since the weight is not equal over both rear tires it would likely not be "heavy" to balance the car.

The heavy battery in some cases has provided better traction and the weight reduction is negated.

Rotational weight makes a more significant difference but saving 50-60 lbs just by a swap of a battery is worth nearly a tenth.

Had I been using a Braille or Voltphreaks battery at the last event in Sacramento the car hits 11.xxxx instead of 12.000.

I chose not to run it because they have failed me on the track in the past in terms of cranking amps and reserve power. The stock battery is stout in those characteristics.

When running a light battery you must make certain your bluetooth, ipod, radio, command, key less go , are OFF and not pulling any reserve. Having the battery die can cause a plethora of problems.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:00 PM
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Maybe it was just me, but this post made me
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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Do you guys recommend that I get one of these batteries or do you think it's not worth it? Also how will the install and fitment be with a smaller battery that's being installed into the stock mount?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dacls63amg
Do you guys recommend that I get one of these batteries or do you think it's not worth it? Also how will the install and fitment be with a smaller battery that's being installed into the stock mount?

Are you trying to replace your stock battery completely?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dyno
did you replace the Main or the Aux battery ?
can't believe you can run any accessory with that 23Ah thing when the engine is off ..
Sorry, I forgot that the 211/219's have dual battery setup. My Crossfire only has a single battery up front........which is what I replaced. I have run my accessories(radio,gauges,intercooler pump,heated seats) with the car off for 5-10 minutes with no starting issues but haven't tested any longer times.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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Ya i want to replace the battery that's in the trunk. The main one.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dacls63amg
Ya i want to replace the battery that's in the trunk. The main one.
if you want to save some weight for race use only, it may have a sense considering that the stock 95Ah main battery weighs in the area of 80lbs.
For starting our car about 600-800 cranking amps are enough (a smaller V6 engine needs a bit less, obviously) and even a battery with low current storage capability can afford starting it, provided it has cells with high discharge rate able to produce the cranck amps required (as that Braille seems to have) and provided the engine will start immediately .. you will not be given a lot of chances !

but even a lot of crank amps cannot be traded with and do NOT replace lack in current torage: the stock 95Ah of current storage are hardly enough for playing a dvd in your car for more than 20minutes at medium volume, provided nothing else is running.
You could get the same result with one third weight if using for example a 70Ah Voltphreaks Lithium battery (just because Lithium batteries are more efficient than Lead acid batteries at delivering current under high load, but it will also not last longer than 20 mins).

Last, just take into account that
- airmatic draws 40Amps and the radiator fan needs ...150 !

so, if you need the car for normal use I strongly recommend not doing it.
If you just love lightweight things and don't want any worst performance than you have today, then, no choice than going with Lithium
(with no less than 50Ah) but that is .. mucho dinero

Last edited by dyno; Jan 10, 2010 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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dyno
it has been a while since i"ve read a post by you,did you ever get your tune?if so how was it!
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cls55
dyno
it has been a while since i"ve read a post by you,did you ever get your tune?if so how was it!
.. only bad experiences

you see, I am playing with electrics just to avoid thinking at that.
but, I 'm learning .. I'm learning ...
maybe one day ..

ps:
where are you from ?
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dyno
.. only bad experiences

you see, I am playing with electrics just to avoid thinking at that.
but, I 'm learning .. I'm learning ...
maybe one day ..

ps:
where are you from ?
give eurocharged a call. they can fix any tuning issues you have.
to the op also remember the temps in the area you live the colder the area the less cranking time you will have. cold cranking ampos are what to look for. (cca)
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
give eurocharged a call. they can fix any tuning issues you have. to the op also remember the temps in the area you live the colder the area the less cranking time you will have. cold cranking ampos are what to look for. (cca)

nope ...I was in contact with Jerry exactly one year ago and there was nothing he could do .

further, I am no more very willing to waste my time !
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 12:02 PM
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I guess Deka makes these batteries for Braille (I've been told) and they only are $50 from Deka. Do a search on Braille batteries at LXforums for the details.

I have the $150 Braille 17-lb battery and it works fine. It tends to lose charge faster than a full size but that was expected.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by budoboy

I have the $150 Braille 17-lb battery and it works fine. It tends to lose charge faster than a full size but that was expected.
That does not sound like a good trade off for the weight reduction. For track days i would just take out the passenger seat of something along those lines.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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I was thinking that it would be a good idea to get one but now starting to think it's not worth it.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:40 PM
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I think they are worth it if you are obsessed about weight and drag race a bunch. Other than that, no.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Full Throttle
That does not sound like a good trade off for the weight reduction. For track days i would just take out the passenger seat of something along those lines.


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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by budoboy
I guess Deka makes these batteries for Braille (I've been told) and they only are $50 from Deka. Do a search on Braille batteries at LXforums for the details.

I have the $150 Braille 17-lb battery and it works fine. It tends to lose charge faster than a full size but that was expected.

good find
... the Deka website has the exact replacement battery for our cars.

to the OP:
don't be fooled by simply reading CCA values.
pay attention if they are "pulse". ... pulse means a duration extremely short (from .2 to 5seconds usually), while the reference test is for 30seconds.
so, just as a reference, 1000 pulse is worth less than half standard.

Last edited by dyno; Jan 10, 2010 at 04:32 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 04:30 PM
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I agree unless you are racing the car around there is no point to changing the battery.

My 6.5 Voltphreaks was Lithium Ion and was 750.00.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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I have the Voltfreaks battery. 5lbs of CF jewelry. Ran for two years even in the winter and no problem at all. Oh, this was on my Evo, not E55.
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