CLS55 P030 Rotors replaced without anal raping by MB!
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CLS63 PP
CLS55 P030 Rotors replaced without **** raping by MB!
Hey Guys,
As you may remember I previously debunked the myth of CLS55 P030 rotors being 390mm, when they were in actuality 380mm. This means there are indeed replacement rotor rings available as opposed to replacing the whole assembly, hats and all for over $1300 a peice from MB. 380mm x 34-36mm options are avilable, but 380mm x 34mm is most common. You need round hole for fixed bobbin mount style, not oval hole like some of the stoptech/brembo offerings(Though brembo does have correct ones too)
To test my theory on replacing them, I bought a lightly used set of JHM 380mm slotted rotors for the Audi RS4 that can be found here:
http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...rs4-p-675.html
I went with these because the RS4 has almost an identical hat. I also got them for 300 for the pair, so that helped too...
I finally got some time to install them today. I am happy to report they are a perfect direct fit! I disassembled the stockers and cleaned all parts with brake cleaner. Brushed the stainless parts with some scotch brite, and re-assembled per the JHM instructions below. I re-used the stock e-torx bolts with new pinch nuts from the JHM kit. I also added some AKebono pads. Thank god for the STAR I have as I was able to depressurize the SBC in a snap and avoided having to bleed the system for the pad change.
I bedded them in and they feel great, and are actually alot quieter than stock. They also weight 3 lbs less than the stock ones so good little unsprung weight reduction as a bonus.
Moral of the story is maintaing these things doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg if you are willing to do a little leg work and are willing to try out some different options than only what MB offers.
Assemble each of the 2 rotors in the following order
1. First disassemble your stock rotors noting how they went together, it is easiest to do
one at a time so you can make sure you put the new one together properly.
2. Prepare the outer rotor ring to be bolted to the OEM center hat by putting everything
together like stock. NOTE: The adapter piece that slips into the rotor ring may need to
be lightly hammered in.
3. Once everything is in line and all the hardware and rattle clips are in place you will now
install the NEW JHM supplied bolts, nuts and washers. (see steps 4 and 5 for more
details on this)
4. Put 10 bolts into the holes with the factory metal shim underneath, no washer on this
side. (front side of the OEM aluminum center hat)
5. Install 10 washers then the nuts on the reverse side w swedged portion facing out.
(JHM outer rotor ring back side)
6. Using a 5mm hex(allen) key and a 10mm wrench or socket torque all 10 NUTS to 60
inch lbs in a star pattern.
7. Retorque all 10 nuts to a higher 120 inch lbs in a star pattern.
8. Retorque all 10 nuts AGAIN to 120 inch lbs in a circular pattern to make sure you didn’t
miss any.
As you may remember I previously debunked the myth of CLS55 P030 rotors being 390mm, when they were in actuality 380mm. This means there are indeed replacement rotor rings available as opposed to replacing the whole assembly, hats and all for over $1300 a peice from MB. 380mm x 34-36mm options are avilable, but 380mm x 34mm is most common. You need round hole for fixed bobbin mount style, not oval hole like some of the stoptech/brembo offerings(Though brembo does have correct ones too)
To test my theory on replacing them, I bought a lightly used set of JHM 380mm slotted rotors for the Audi RS4 that can be found here:
http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...rs4-p-675.html
I went with these because the RS4 has almost an identical hat. I also got them for 300 for the pair, so that helped too...
I finally got some time to install them today. I am happy to report they are a perfect direct fit! I disassembled the stockers and cleaned all parts with brake cleaner. Brushed the stainless parts with some scotch brite, and re-assembled per the JHM instructions below. I re-used the stock e-torx bolts with new pinch nuts from the JHM kit. I also added some AKebono pads. Thank god for the STAR I have as I was able to depressurize the SBC in a snap and avoided having to bleed the system for the pad change.
I bedded them in and they feel great, and are actually alot quieter than stock. They also weight 3 lbs less than the stock ones so good little unsprung weight reduction as a bonus.
Moral of the story is maintaing these things doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg if you are willing to do a little leg work and are willing to try out some different options than only what MB offers.
Assemble each of the 2 rotors in the following order
1. First disassemble your stock rotors noting how they went together, it is easiest to do
one at a time so you can make sure you put the new one together properly.
2. Prepare the outer rotor ring to be bolted to the OEM center hat by putting everything
together like stock. NOTE: The adapter piece that slips into the rotor ring may need to
be lightly hammered in.
3. Once everything is in line and all the hardware and rattle clips are in place you will now
install the NEW JHM supplied bolts, nuts and washers. (see steps 4 and 5 for more
details on this)
4. Put 10 bolts into the holes with the factory metal shim underneath, no washer on this
side. (front side of the OEM aluminum center hat)
5. Install 10 washers then the nuts on the reverse side w swedged portion facing out.
(JHM outer rotor ring back side)
6. Using a 5mm hex(allen) key and a 10mm wrench or socket torque all 10 NUTS to 60
inch lbs in a star pattern.
7. Retorque all 10 nuts to a higher 120 inch lbs in a star pattern.
8. Retorque all 10 nuts AGAIN to 120 inch lbs in a circular pattern to make sure you didn’t
miss any.
