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Hello everyone, I've been researching the CLS55 for a long time and I think I'm ready to pull the trigger however I wanted to get the some owners opinions. about this situation
I found a 06 55 with 41k miles (Silver on black)on it for 28k at a small dealership, once i'll make a trip i have my mechanic who is Mercedes Benz certified over 25yrs now has his own shop in Burbank.
or
should I pull the trigger on a 06 55 with 86k miles on it for going for 22k (gunmetal on black) same thing my mechanic will be with me.
What would the pros and cons with going the 41k CLS55 on it vs the one with 86k
also for my line of work I'm n territory sales so i will be driving about 40 to 50 miles a day at most.
06 CLS55 w/ P030, 05 Jag S Type R, 05 TBird-68 Dodge Charger R/T-440 w/4speed I'm original owner
I have a CLS 55 with 42k mi.
Go for the lowest mileage.
So far no repairs other than the replacement of the valve cover gaskets which is a known issue and was covered by my extended warranty.
Get an extended warranty. One or two repairs will pay for its cost.
Check out the carfax. You want one owner cars with no mechanical repairs, no accidents and no out of state cars.
Make sure what ever you get have all fluids changed. Brakes should be replaced by now.
I have a CLS 55 with 42k mi.
Go for the lowest mileage.
So far no repairs other than the replacement of the valve cover gaskets which is a known issue and was covered by my extended warranty.
Get an extended warranty. One or two repairs will pay for its cost.
Check out the carfax. You want one owner cars with no mechanical repairs, no accidents and no out of state cars.
Make sure what ever you get have all fluids changed. Brakes should be replaced by now.
thanks Bud I also Live in the Sherman oaks area off of ventura and Beverly glen, do you have a Indy shop you go too? where did you get your extended warranty? what does it cover?
06 CLS55 w/ P030, 05 Jag S Type R, 05 TBird-68 Dodge Charger R/T-440 w/4speed I'm original owner
Since cost is not an issue with the extended warranty, Keys Mercedes on Van Nuys does my service. They are one of the few that has a MB Certified AMG Service Center. Service Advisor Geovonni is AMG Certified. They're not cheap but really know AMGs.
I got my extended warranty from Fletcher Jones MB in Newport Beach. Best pricing for a Fidelity Policy for 5 yr 70k mi. Send out emails to a dozen or so MB dealers and wait for the best offer to roll in.
In addition you might want to get quote s from Mercury Insurance and Zurich ins. Also check out the Extended Warranty Forum here on the board.
Thank you for all the helpful info, quick question if the car is under 50k isn't it still under factory warranty?
No. Factory warranty ends after 4 years/120k km, whichever comes first. so for your model the warranty is already expired.
I may suggest for you to get the engine number if possible and check if its affected by the head bolt issue for M156. Go to C63 section. they have a sticky about this I remember.
And regarding the choice between either. you have to consider that the 41k miles is about the time when you do service B, transmission flush and rotors/pads. which yields with over $7k of cost. So consider those elements before pulling the trigger.
Anyway, good luck and post some pics here when/if you buy the beast
No. Factory warranty ends after 4 years/120k km, whichever comes first. so for your model the warranty is already expired.
I may suggest for you to get the engine number if possible and check if its affected by the head bolt issue for M156. Go to C63 section. they have a sticky about this I remember.
And regarding the choice between either. you have to consider that the 41k miles is about the time when you do service B, transmission flush and rotors/pads. which yields with over $7k of cost. So consider those elements before pulling the trigger.
Anyway, good luck and post some pics here when/if you buy the beast
wow 7k thats pretty huge! thanks for giving me a heads up on this! once again thank you
For $6k diff, I'd go with the higher mileage car. As long as it's clean, good carfax, hopefully maint. records, wasn't owned by some body stupid and beat it. Get all the maint. up to date, check out the known issues, i.e. intercooler pump, oil leaks, fuel pump housing, air suspension.... spend $3k on getting it just right, and your still ahead $3k. How are the tires, wheels, breaks, rotors, paint, leather ? if the higher mileage car is good and well maintained, you are $6k in your pocket to the good. If you gotta put $3k into it, you're still $3k richer. I bought a '06 CLS 55 AMG with 98K for $23k. I only had to put breaks, tires, catch up on maint. and intercooler pump. So I'm up to $25k. I put another $2k into a bad *** stereo and $1k for some nice rims. If the $28k car has stock wheels, stock stereo, unknown maint, you'll spend another $3 to $5k to get it the way you want it. So now your into it for over $30k. If the cheaper car is clean, well maint, good rubber, breaks, paint, no leaks.. I'd go for it. These cars are very well engineered. Very few issues with them. Don't worry about the mileage if it has under 100k on it.
wow you Bring up good point I've been seening alot og thess with 81k on it and I'm a litttle worried but what you have set up is something that I want to do.. thank you for the help.. in a perfect world I would like to get it for 25k then put down some cash and get it 21k out the door
The whole point is maintenance. My S class had over 325K miles on it when it was destroyed in a car accident. Forget the price. I'd rather have a 90k car that has been properly maintained than one with 25k that has been abused. Look over both vehicles and LOOK at the physical condition as well the records. I do all my own maintenance (or my trusted friend and Indi of I don't have time) because of where I live if it isn't Ford of GM it doesn't get worked on. Get records. Read the records and pay your indie to read and explain them for you. I'd rather pay 28k for a well maintained vehicle with high mileage than 22k for low miles poor maintenance and a ton of headaches. (And I interchanged your scenario deliberately. These cars are expensive money pits if not maintained properly). Good Luck.
Money pits?? please do explain, from what Ive reseached this there engine's are one of the best that has been ever made, I'm n sales so I will be driving 30-40 miles a day... is this the Right car for me?
A properly maintained engine will. Yes they are a perfect match from the factory and I agree they are probably the finest engine made by Mercedes but how well they perform and last is a function of proper maintenance. Nothing on this car is cheap and replacing something as simple as a master window switch panel can come close to 1k unless you DIY ( like I did). Is this car right for you? Good question. Do you like sitting high in the seat with full visibility all around and a cushy but firm ride and quick spirited response? Well this car may not be right for you because it's low to the ground and I find myself sitting down in the seat (at 6'1") and spinning into the car. Is it fast yes it's a monster and one of the fastest I've driven right out of the box but the ride is firm not cushy so you may want an S Class with the type of everyday driving you do. But what I've said is true of any Mercedes. Parts are expensive and a car that is not properly maintained will cost you money and sometimes Big Money. It's all about maintenance. Get the books and give them to your indie and pay him to look them over and give you advice about your purchase. Good luck.
Thank you VVRJRLAW.. I currently own a 2003 M5 which is lowered which also has aide is firm. I'm also riding on 285/30/19's so its a little bumpy which is fine for me. As far as the S class..I like it but its out of my price range and also I feel that its a too long for me, I think the CLS is a perfect fit for me, I have driven the CLS55 and also rode in the back seat as well just to get a feel of the car. I have a great indie whom I've know over 10yrs, Most of my friends who have benz use him.. " I find myself sitting down in the seat (at 6'1") and spinning into the car" what do you mean by that?
The S Class is a big 4 door sedan. You enter simply by putting one foot in and then sitting on the seat in the car in one smooth motion. You sit somewhat high though not as high as the ML. When I enter the CLS 55 I find that I must sit down in the seat first then swing my legs into the car. I am not heavy and have no disability it's just easier that way for me. And the dashboard is somewhat closer than the S Class giving the feeling of being in a cockpit ( and I do know what that feels like) with everything surrounding you. Oh it's a great fit when you're finally inside and the ride is firm but not like driving a rail. And fast, it really is quick and I've driven a lot of cars in my time. It's just different than the S class and having owned and driven 5 Sclasses since 1965 the new CLS 4 door coupe is different for me. It's like apples and oranges. I like them both but for different reasons. Good luck.
***** New options just came up and I would like you're guys help here..
2006 stock, 2nd owner 41k with blk on blk talked him down to 28k.. also has a 100k warranty with carmax (covers up to 100k miles only). which covers pretty much everything just doesn't cover the wear and tare of the car, plus it can be serviced by my indie or the dealer and its fully covered.
2nd car
2006 has black rims and black grill (which I'm not a fan of but there will be changes) offering 29,800, its Silver on blk, 41k miles it has 3 owners, this one does come with a new 100k warranty on this one which means it will run up too 141k covers everything... also this car had a ECU harring issue and which they fixed.
3rd car
2006 Capri Blue Metallic on Cashmere Beige it has 68k on it 2 owners no warranty I like is car because I've never seen a CLS that has the Capri blue paint in person but not a fan of beige, the price that was listed at 1st was 29k and now they dropped the price to 26k..
ideally i think under 25k is a better and more of a good price for this car, what do you guys think about the 2 titans, how much should i offer them which car should I roll the dice on
also I have a face to face appointment with silver on black car tomorrow. i want to offer 25k out the door.
Which one is the third picture with the //AR on the building in the background?!? Those wheels might mean it's an 030 performance package car , in which case you should buy it immediately
Which one is the third picture with the //AR on the building in the background?!? Those wheels might mean it's an 030 performance package car , in which case you should buy it immediately
really?? how can you tell by the wheels only? is there a way that I can tell by the VIN?
06 CLS55 w/ P030, 05 Jag S Type R, 05 TBird-68 Dodge Charger R/T-440 w/4speed I'm original owner
Originally Posted by Sir-Boost-a-Lot
Which one is the third picture with the //AR on the building in the background?!? Those wheels might mean it's an 030 performance package car , in which case you should buy it immediately
I was thinking a possible 030 too. But its two toned. If it is a genuine MB it would have come off a CL/SL 65. I have an 030 optioned CLS 55. There are some upgrades on the 030 that can not be added to be a 030 poiser like the reconfigured trunk for the spare tire delete due to the limited slip rear end.
Go for the lowest milage with a warranty. Check the warranty to be bumper to bumper which would be non exclusionary. You do not want only powertrain coverage. The warranty company must be well established and not a 2nd or 3rd tier fly by nite. Top Warranties for AMGS are north of $7k for anything more than 5yrs/75k mi. Make sure you get new front rotors/brakes on any one you buy, they're expensive if its on your dime (even if DIY). The warranty will take care of everything else.
Drill down on the Carfax. Put it on the lift and check for leaks and most of all any accident damage. Check panels with magnet or paint meter for body damage/repaint.
The car in the middle pic looks like it's sitting high. It could have it's suspension raise button on. If not, it may have some problem.
Good luck.
I actually saw the capri blue one 2 months ago when I was searching. The car was listed in Craiglist Orange county. The reason I did not pick up that car because inside beige color seat was dirty and was not as good condition as I expected. It was listed $24k but sold to this dealer for $22K so you know how much they paid for this car. Hope they detail it well. FYI, I bought mine with 90K on clock with new set of 20" wheels, new brakes, new pulley, both new battery, update LED tail light for $20K with all the maintenance up to date. I don't recommend over pay for lower mileage car, rather find a better maintain car.
I was thinking a possible 030 too. But its two toned. If it is a genuine MB it would have come off a CL/SL 65. I have an 030 optioned CLS 55. There are some upgrades on the 030 that can not be added to be a 030 poiser like the reconfigured trunk for the spare tire delete due to the limited slip rear end.
Go for the lowest milage with a warranty. Check the warranty to be bumper to bumper which would be non exclusionary. You do not want only powertrain coverage. The warranty company must be well established and not a 2nd or 3rd tier fly by nite. Top Warranties for AMGS are north of $7k for anything more than 5yrs/75k mi. Make sure you get new front rotors/brakes on any one you buy, they're expensive if its on your dime (even if DIY). The warranty will take care of everything else.
Drill down on the Carfax. Put it on the lift and check for leaks and most of all any accident damage. Check panels with magnet or paint meter for body damage/repaint.
The car in the middle pic looks like it's sitting high. It could have it's suspension raise button on. If not, it may have some problem.
Good luck.
It's not 030 because the stealing wheel doesn't have the suede...
Wow that makes sense.. I visited them over the weekend and the lowest they would go is 23974 plus fees which is 27k I said that was too much and they wouldn't go lower.. what do you recommend? Keep on looking
Since its not an 030 I'd personally skip the blue one , just because of the beige interior. That's just a personal preference though. I really like the black interior on these cars. Otherwise it seems like a solid car if it suits your fancy aesthetically.
By "two toned" , youre referring to the wheels , right? I thought that too, except that it's not unlikely that someone painted the centers of their 030 wheels dark grey like the 65 cars. My CLS is an 030 also and when I upgraded the wheels, I put them on my SL since the two cars share offsets. If there was time I'd have shot the centers grey , it looks awesome like that IMO.
But Charly is right, the steering wheel on the blue car in this thread is a dead giveaway.
Originally Posted by m_berman
I was thinking a possible 030 too. But its two toned. If it is a genuine MB it would have come off a CL/SL 65. I have an 030 optioned CLS 55. There are some upgrades on the 030 that can not be added to be a 030 poiser like the reconfigured trunk for the spare tire delete due to the limited slip rear end.
Go for the lowest milage with a warranty. Check the warranty to be bumper to bumper which would be non exclusionary. You do not want only powertrain coverage. The warranty company must be well established and not a 2nd or 3rd tier fly by nite. Top Warranties for AMGS are north of $7k for anything more than 5yrs/75k mi. Make sure you get new front rotors/brakes on any one you buy, they're expensive if its on your dime (even if DIY). The warranty will take care of everything else.
Drill down on the Carfax. Put it on the lift and check for leaks and most of all any accident damage. Check panels with magnet or paint meter for body damage/repaint.
The car in the middle pic looks like it's sitting high. It could have it's suspension raise button on. If not, it may have some problem.
Good luck.
07-06-2015, 04:23 PM
