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I bought my car less then 2 months ago and from the first day I drove it, it felt sluggish and not what it should feel like (even stock these cars are quick) so driving it like that for 3 weeks I really wanted to find out what the issue was no CEL no shaking but I did notice when I was on the highway once I stepped on it (50-120) and I let go of the gas I tried to punch it again the car didn't go anywhere, I knew right there I had a "weak" pump so decided to change it with the "BOSCH 010" and little did you know that solved all my problems the car not feeling like it should since I bought it was resolved and it now moves. Wether you need it or not I would change it regardless the pump is cheap and to change it takes less then an hour, being that our engines run very very hot and have a poor cooling system this should be the first "mod" to do on any 55 car
I bought my car less then 2 months ago and from the first day I drove it, it felt sluggish and not what it should feel like (even stock these cars are quick) so driving it like that for 3 weeks I really wanted to find out what the issue was no CEL no shaking but I did notice when I was on the highway once I stepped on it (50-120) and I let go of the gas I tried to punch it again the car didn't go anywhere, I knew right there I had a "weak" pump so decided to change it with the "BOSCH 010" and little did you know that solved all my problems the car not feeling like it should since I bought it was resolved and it now moves. Wether you need it or not I would change it regardless the pump is cheap and to change it takes less then an hour, being that our engines run very very hot and have a poor cooling system this should be the first "mod" to do on any 55 car
I apreciate your response. My CLS55 is the only one I've ever driven and I don't know another person that has one to to compare so I don't have a "fast" point of referrence. I've driven a lot of fast cars but since I don't have that reduced power lag you describe, I guess mine's within factory working order.
Say, did you do the separation bypass mod at the same time? I was thinking of doing that. It separates the hot coolant circulating the engine and makes the intercooler a whole separate circuit. I think that requires two pumps if I'm not mistaken.
for the split cooling kit all you need is a BMW power steering reservoir, 3/4 hose, 3/4 inch T fitting, 3/4 inch block off cap and some clamps. I would just get a pump and heat exchanger and you will be fine.
I found my pump was shot when we hooked up an obd2 reader and connected to torque app. My intake temps spiked to 140-150 degrees and stayed there for a long time after a hard pull on half of 2nd gear.
It's pretty easy to change if that's all you're changing out.
Intake temps should be below 115-120 on a hot day (~90degrees). The ME control unit starts pulling timing at 125.
Bottom/left shows the heat criteria in how much timing is pulled at certain heat ranges
CLS55's don't run hot unless they aren't running properly. In 90 degree weather in Florida, my car doesn't run above 190-195f, even in rush hour traffic.
To answer OP's question, you will not see a CEL light on a completely failed intercooler pump. Best to replace it if your IAT is above 120f.
Normal operating temperatures on IAT is +10 to 15 degrees above ambient. Again, in Florida high humidity, at 90f, my intercooler temperatures are between 95-98f on the stock setup. On a 0-80mph pull it goes up to about 105f, and then right back into the 95f range in 30 seconds.
This is a low temperature circuit. It is independent of the radiator coolant, with a bleedover mix T hose. There's no reason to split the circuit. I seriously question any performance increase by doing it over installing a water sprayer on the intercooler instead.
If you read GF07.61-P-4027AM for the 219, the "retardation of the ignition timing point commences at a coolant temp of approx 90c, and a charge air temp of 20c."
So, on a CLS55 the timing is being pulled after 70f on the IAT.
The improved Bosch 0392022010 replacement pump is all you need and your system will run terrific (Mercedes cross ref#: A0005000386).
CLS55's don't run hot unless they aren't running properly. In 90 degree weather in Florida, my car doesn't run above 190-195f, even in rush hour traffic.
To answer OP's question, you will not see a CEL light on a completely failed intercooler pump. Best to replace it if your IAT is above 120f.
Normal operating temperatures on IAT is +10 to 15 degrees above ambient. Again, in Florida high humidity, at 90f, my intercooler temperatures are between 95-98f on the stock setup. On a 0-80mph pull it goes up to about 105f, and then right back into the 95f range in 30 seconds.
This is a low temperature circuit. It is independent of the radiator coolant, with a bleedover mix T hose. There's no reason to split the circuit. I seriously question any performance increase by doing it over installing a water sprayer on the intercooler instead.
If you read GF07.61-P-4027AM for the 219, the "retardation of the ignition timing point commences at a coolant temp of approx 90c, and a charge air temp of 20c."
So, on a CLS55 the timing is being pulled after 70f on the IAT.
The improved Bosch 0392022010 replacement pump is all you need and your system will run terrific (Mercedes cross ref#: A0005000386).
So what are you using for a scan tool then? I'd like to see if mine runs as cool as yours. Admitedly, your numbers in the hot FL sun seem a bit low.
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