UncleBenz55

Amazing how much love and effort you've been putting into the amg. I love it

nd-photo.nl

Thx brother

nd-photo.nl

Rocker cover removed for cilinders 1-2-3-4



Closeup



And cilinders 5-6-7-8

nd-photo.nl

Changed the differential oil and for good measure, also changed the 2 plugs. I do this as a safety precaution for all cars that I buy where I never did that service myself. This is what I encountered with my Mini Cooper S...

Partnr: A3529970032



Nuff said I used LiquiMoly 75W140 for this change. I will probably change it again early next year to keep things fresh. Didnt have the right hex tool, so I used a T70 socket





Old drain plug







Draining in progress, gaping hole spotted. This type of oil always smells a bit funky



Shiny new plugs in place

nd-photo.nl

Was planning for my first oil change, but I forgot that I didnt have the right oil key. Instead of buying one specifically for Mercedes, I bought a set with different ones. Maximum flexibility

nd-photo.nl

Performed my first oil change on the CLS. I chose LiquiMoly 5W40 High Tec Low Friction oil (2x 5L) and also added LiquiMoly Ceratec (friction modifier).





Bought 2x new filler plugs, just to be safe. And off course a new Mann oil filter.

Partnr: HU718/5X





This was my setup



I found quite some signs of oil leakage/seepage, so took the time to clean that up properly as I went along.



The scavenging oil sump



And the main sump



I used a combination of vacuumpump and drain bolt to get as much old oil out as possible (you can see the base of the vacuum pump on the picture). Key 903 fit the oil cartridge housing perfectly



The oil filter and rings were in an appalling state, hurts me to see it. Perform proper maintenance people! The rings were very old, leading me to believe that corners were cut on the maintenance

nd-photo.nl

As a result of the oil leaking, I also needed to clean the belly pans. Especially the 2nd and 3rd were very dirty.

No work needed on the first pan



2nd pan had a lot of accumulated dirt and also one of the air diverters was broken. So I will need to replace it (anyone know the part nr?). The pressure washer was my hero in need and made cleaning easy



And the 3rd pan had the most dirt (oil + sand etc ). I will be doing a full transmission maintenance, so then I know it will stay much much cleaner.

nd-photo.nl

And "while I was in there" (thanks to LegitStreetCars), I also replaced the serpentine belt

nd-photo.nl

I have to remind myself to also take pics of the car itself. This is from a small car meet of a Seat forum (I had a Seat Leon 1.8T 20VT before as a project car, which I learned a lot from with help from that forum)

When I went for a stage 2 map at JD Engineering, probably the most well known VAG tuner in the Netherlands


Shakedown of the 3" decat Toyosports downpipe with Cobra catback


If you are interested in more pics of the Seat, see my pic album here: https://secure.flickr.com/photos/and...57629066602690

Back to the Merc!

nd-photo.nl

Also made some instructional videos, as I could not find them when I searched for them. Like replaceing the TCU module in the passenger footwell. Straight forward process, but not documented as far as I could see. Enjoy

nd-photo.nl

Also had issues with my sunroof, but I didnt know it had a reset procedure after you disconnect the battery. Easy procedure, you just have to know it haha

nd-photo.nl

Fuel consumption isnt that bad. Over 155km with driving around 120/130 km/h resulted in 1:8.5 km. Also had a half tank of gas left (RON 102, gotta love Germany ) while I already had 349km (216 miles) on the trip counter.

nd-photo.nl

Just a shot at my current employer (vidaXL)

bbirdwell

19.9 miles per gallon for those of us who only use metric with our wrenches.

nd-photo.nl

Hahah thank you for converting

nd-photo.nl

Changed the supercharger oil not that long ago. Used a 150ml syringe and that worked suprisingly well. I used the Mobil Jet Oil II as prescribed, but used a plastic container for storing it easier. Quite the color difference, but that means the oil is doing its job



Sucking it out



And putting fresh oil in

nd-photo.nl

Also changed the power steering fluid and the reservoir as the reservoir contains a filter. Old mineral type fluid was flushed out, using the steering wheel (lock to lock) method. I extended the return line into a small container and used about 2 liters of fresh fluid to get all the old fluids out.



Changing the reservoir was a little tedious and messy, as I could not extract all the fluid before disconnecting the reservoir. I used Febi Bilstein fluid (about a liter) to fill the system back up again. I was almost done flushing at this point



Also shot a pic of the hardline, which runs right over the power steering pump pulley. Thats why its a little fiddly to get the serpentine belt out

MB Knucklehead

Wow, such a detailed thread.
I just traded my BMW650i for a low mileage CLS63. I am still learning the car, your thread helped a lot with some things.
Mine is totally stock except the PO straight piped it, leaving the cats intact (I live in California, stupid *** rules everywhere).
This 63 is so much more refined than my 650i, but I will give the nod to the bmw for handling.
My 63 has a few issues (squeak on the right side up front, sounds like an old pickup truck when it is cold)
My "check oil during next fill up" light comes on occasionally but it is fine (I still check)
Pillars are shot on the outside (I saw what you did, will replicate)
One headlight is foggier than the other (just like yours) which will certainly drive me nuts, already tried a ceramic cleaning kit, did nothing
Air suspension sags in the rear when I don't drive it for a couple of days (but instantly raises to proper height upon startup), not sure if this is normal

More to follow
Happy to be a part of the forum

nd-photo.nl

My thread is not done yet, so stay tuned

Thanks for your message!

It should keep the pressure if I am not mistaken. I spend quite some time on the Airmatic system, the only things not replaced yet on the Airmatic system is the left front strut and the valve block. Is your left rear also a bit lower than your right rear? I believe this is by design although it looks a tad strange to me to be honest.

nd-photo.nl

Bought some Sonax Leather Care after reading good reviews on Amazon. The product was absorbed very fast by the leather, almost didnt need to wipe it down (as per instructions)

Link:

nd-photo.nl

Shot of the backside, just before I changed the 4 exhaust rubber mounts.

nd-photo.nl

2 On the rearside, close to the rear differential. And the other 2 are behind the bumper in each corner.

Bought a special tool for that which I can highly recommend! Bought 4 original AMG rubbers, as they were a smidge more expensive than aftermarket options. Also has the AMG logo for bragging rights. Might be 1 extra horsepower per logo





Work in progress!

machild

No, the suspension should maintain pressure. You have one or more leaks. Lots of postings here and even more over on the W211 page which is the twin sister to the CLS and has lots more traffic: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg-81/

MB Knucklehead

Great.
I now conclude that all air suspensions suck.
I've had a Range Rover, Cayenne, X5 and now this thing and they have all failed.
Bad technology.
That is why my Jeep Wrangler U is my daily driver.....

nd-photo.nl

I also had a sagging rear end. I replaced both air bags (which were still original) and the Airmatic compressor (and relay). After replacing those bits, the drivers side rear end kept sagging. I asked for warranty on the left airbag and a replacement was sent. Still had some sagging, and found out I had a leak on an airline. The rear left sits somewhat lower than the right side, but I got rid of the sagging after parking (and the dreaded "Visit workshop" message).

Lower left side is by design if I am not mistaken. Hope someone can verify this?