hey everyone, I just bought a P30 CLS55 with 130k miles for $6500. I bought it about 200 miles away drove and got it, everything drives great and I think I got a great deal especially w the rarity of a P30. I have noticed a little oil on my skid plate and near the bottom of my car and I bent one of my rims the other day and got a tow to my house cause I didn’t have a spare and when I got on the tow truck. I was driving for ab 2hrs but while i was waiting on the side of the road for rhe truck i noticed a decent amout of oil that had came out of the skid plate on the ground. Whe they tilted it gas began to leak from the the rear driver next to the wheel but stopped and didn’t do it again when we let the car down. I took it to the shop to get a multipoint inspection and they sent me everything they found. what they found im just trying to see if you guys can tell me if I am going to be in a lot of money, I know it will be about 1-2k. I have a mechanic who works on my car for my so I really just need to see if these are common issues and how much parts will look like. Im really only worried about the crank pulley, oil hose, and gas leak right now!
@isaiah1306
nemigaparts.com for the part numbers. charm.li for the WIS (Workshop Information System).
Your C219 E55 is a W211 E55 with different sheet metal and interior. They diagnose and repair with the same mechanical and electrical parts. You will find much more in the W211 AMG sub-forum. There is one thread in this sub-forum you should bookmark and read. It was posted by Andy in the Netherlands while he restored his CLS55.
Fuel leak covered extensively in the W211 E55 AMG sub-forum. Expect to spend ~$1200 just in parts (fuel pumps, fuel filter/regulator, o-rings, possible electrical adaptor to the filter/regulator evap sensor). Access is enabled by removing the rear seat and the access plates. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...formation.html
-Since you have a 2006, your car should have dual fuel pump relays and not be affected by the "melting relay" issue that affects the '03-'05 single relay fuel pump circuit.
-Replace front thrust and control arms plus upper ball joint. While you are in there, replace the lower ball joint located in the knuckle; you have to disassemble the suspension to access it so do it now while it is already apart.
-Replace the rear upper control arms with stock parts.
-After performing the above work, you will need to calibrate the suspension; I've posted on this a few times in the W211 E55 section and just performed a calibration this past week. This sets the ride height and camber of the wheels. Set the toe and you will be good.
-The oil leak up front will have affected all rubber hoses and cause deterioration. Steam clean (not pressure wash!), replace oil lines, replace all coolant lines while you are in there.
-Replace the coolant reservoir cap. "Roll" the edges of the reservoir between finger and thumb; if small pieces of plastic crumble off, replace the reservoir (not expensive, the stickers on the reservoir cost as much as the reservoir itselt). While you are at it, purchase and replace the hard plastic line attached to the reservoir next to the cap; it connects to the upper radiator hose and is easy to break.
-If original alternator, now would be the time to replace the alternator brushes.
-Verify motor mounts and transmission mount are good. There is a trick to replacing the driver's side mount and is described in posts on this site. If you do so yourself, disconnect the battery as the alternator hot lug is about a1/2" away from where your extension will be when removing the upper motor mount bolt on the passenger side (ZAP! and arcing is not good!).
-Tidbit of info...do NOT have the key fob in the ignition when attaching jumper cables or installing a new battery. If Keyless-Go, keep the key fob at least six feet away from the car. With key fob inserted or near, the circuits are active and arcing at the battery can blow fuses and damage modules.
Do NOT cheap out on parts! Go with OEM or OEM supplier, not that cheap counterfeit carp sold on Amazon. The labor is what is going to cost you so you don't want to pay to have it done twice. Learn to do as much of it yourself as you can.
PM me your email address and I'll send you multiple attachments of documentation describing the sub-systems of the W211 (which is virtually identical to your car).
Best of luck and post updates about this in the W211 E55 sub-forum; you will get more engagement there.
