schwarzwagen

it has been stigmatized by the movie i would agree.

BlackC230Coupe

Its nice to see some of the hostility comming to an end. I mean, come on guys, this thread has turned into something i would hear about on a civic board.

360_iti

i wouldnt know about that.

MercedeSChink

awwwwwwwww damit, the flames been put out already before i can even get to it...

nukblazi

I made the mistake of thinking most of the track ****** in the C32/55 forum had more integrity than this... wtf?

The Camber arms can be used to neutralize the camber for street -.5 -1, set drag camber +1-2 for the strip, or set even more negative camber for road course DEs and autocrossing -3 or more depending on the track and tires...

I was dumbfounded at how my posts about the camber arms, sway endlinks, and potential front camber plates didn't generate even 2 pages and this was 6... Oh, it was a flame war.

Good buy Benzo, more of you should get these, they're awesome.

Zeppelin

Nukblazi,

This thread did get a little off track. Just so you know, I do not beleive the swaybar endlinks can be made for the C32 and C230SS because of the larger 12mm hole on the swaybar side. Or it is possible Jeff chose not to make me some(lack of response for 2 weeks). Either way I am back to buying stock ones from the dealer.

nukblazi

Dude, Jeff's an Engineer in Cali who works on the ground development stuff, with the mudslides, he's been busy as sin. Give him time, he kicked this off and work started going nuts, he is still the only person making these things for us.

I'd send him a follow up email, PM him from club202.com, and call him if the site lists a number but trust me his parts are worth it. Top notch, and exclusive. The sway endlinks can easily be made with the 10 or 12mm hole. Just a differnt hiem joint.

I love my endlinks, camber arms, and have used my camber arms as toe arms on track to eliminate the squirliness under heavy braking. It's all good stuff. Jeff's sending me another set of camber arms so I will have both links replaced and full and precise camber and toe adjustment.

Even though the bearing is coated, the hiem itself can still rust. Put a little WD-40 on a rag and wipe it down once and a while if in a rust zone. This will prevent corrosion.

Zeppelin

Nuk,

He may be able to get around to building them at sometime, but I needed them sooner. I just went out and bought an OEM one to keep me on the road. Jeff did respond to my emails at first and gave me pricing for ones like yours which was very reasonable. As soon as I mentioned that they needed to have 12mm rod ends he has not responded to my 3 follow-up emails for over 2 weeks.

Since the lower ball-joint is the one that fails on these I will cut it off and replace with a rod end for like $10. Shoud be an economical solution.

nukblazi

I'll call his cell this afternoon... surely it wasn't because of the 12mm bolt. That's way too easy.

Tom

Zeppelin

Let me know what you find out.

Zeppelin

Nuk,

I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full. I changed one of my endlinks today and noticed that the top strut end is a 12mm bolt as well as the bottom swatbar bolt. Does the Coupe use a 10mm or a 12mm on the strut end?

smgC32

Remember to adjust and take the preload off one side of the sway bar link. Really no need for both sides to be adjustable, but it is cheaper to make just one unit rather than two.

nukblazi

I sent Jeff my stock units, 10mm as a model. You have the C32(?), so yours should be 12mm.

If you have the 10mm just let Jeff know and I am sure he'll send you out the right parts if you return the 12mm joint and bolts.

Tom
Sorry, going to go clean the inbox out now.

nukblazi

Agreed but my KWs the sway mount is a little lower than the OE and H&R, so it was nice to be able to bring them down a little and level the arms.

smgC32

I am very suprised that the location of the mounting tab hole is not "exact" as it should be. Is this a problem with all KW's?! Or just a manufacturing error. I would let KW know and demand a new set under "defect in materials and manufacturing". What if you sell them later to someone with stock links and they run into problems related to the stresses put on the stock links due to excessive pushing or pulling?

Sent you a pm on the other board regarding the pics. There must be a solution!

BlackC230Coupe

I'd like to see some pics of what you guys are saying.

nukblazi

It is probably just because my car is about .75-1" lower up front with the KWs

I replied to your PM a while ago but let's talk tomorrow on the phone. I have some meetings but can figure something out. I've been busy as hell with my jobs and haven't called Jeff yet. Going to ring him first thing in the California morning and see what he says.

I love my endlinks and the KWs man. Once I got them dialed in right they are amazing.

Look at the Ireland Engineering "Maxi" fixed maximum camber plate. I am thinking that at the least we could build something like this. Modifying a stock upper bearing, we could change angle of strut guide and weld a 2.5I.D. upper spring perch to the lower part of the bearing unit. The lower portion is free and rotates with the wheel as it turns.

This solution would give us 2.5 spring ability, maximum camber without cutting, and a stock strut bearing. Not perfect for racing, but suitable and a reasonable compromise for a dual use car.

Not sure if you noticed but it looks like it was spot welded in small holes in the middle of the plates around the upper bearing receiver. What I fear is that in any way cutting this piece, we will complete compromise the integrity of the strut housing. Thus, why Autohaus Pompano built completely new housing. Pic attached.

I have something to note that I think is frightening. I've started to build a SpecE30 race car. I've gutted the interior and removed a lot of the sound deadening. The car has new rear upper strut mounts (stock rubber) and new rear struts and snow tires. The right front is 195/70/14, the rest are 195/55/14. Every other suspension component is competely worn and was neglected by the previous owner(s). The rubber grommet that holds the rear sway link to the sway bar is stretched about 4mm to large, Control Arm Bushings, Front and Rear sway bushings are worn, and the front strut inserts are blown. You can bounce the front end rocking with about 4-6" of travel with one hand. It handles better, I **** you not, on all the turns in this area I know very well, than my C230 with all my mods... it's scary. I can carry equal or greater speed through traffic circles, hwy on ramps, and my favorite "hill climb" style road I drive everyday. Terrifying actually.

nukblazi

I need to start a website. Just to host and link pics and images...

Going to start a new thread. I don't want to hyjack this one too badly. I will link to pics of the sway endlinks in this thread.

smgC32

The relationship between the strut tab mounting point for the sway bar end link is constant regardless of where the adjustable colars sit along their adjustment range. Maybe the coupe is different than the sedan and CLK.

nukblazi

It is different. KWs didn't cure my SSR fitment issue but certainly made it better, 3-5 mm needed vs 15 -20 to clear the strut.

There's a pic of the two side by side in the KW Install pics link. You can see some difference.

schwarzwagen

damnit steve and zep, why did you guys have to go and post useful info in this thread?