Poor 0-60; WTF?
Ran only 3, but ranged from about 5.8 to 6.1
I started the watch when I hit the gas and stopped the watch when the spedo hit 60mph...I felt the traction was very good.
Anything to be concerned about? I guess I will try again in 1,500 miles when the engine is broken in. Hopefully then the times will be more impressive.
SM
Green Filters installed
Ran only 3, but ranged from about 5.8 to 6.1
I started the watch when I hit the gas and stopped the watch when the spedo hit 60mph...I felt the traction was very good.
Anything to be concerned about? I guess I will try again in 1,500 miles when the engine is broken in. Hopefully then the times will be more impressive.
SM
Green Filters installed
I get between 6.5 and 6.8 on my CDI, but the book figure is closer to 6.6.... I think those numbers are with test equipment, etc..
Also wait for the engine to brake in... it will get a few more horses.
****, you should be in the low 4's... I wonder if there is some kind of "Break-in" governor mode to protect the engine.. My bro-in-laws old CL55 (which weighs 1000 more lbs) did it in 5.0 flat on my stop watch.
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get a G-meter or hit a stip>>>>>




Then I brake torqued and pulled 5.4. This is with myself and a passenger. I'm positive it will do better!
I am by no means a professional driver, but, I have been driving sports cars for more than 10 years and have a decent feel for things.
To shave off a FULL second? Seems unlikely. Maybe a few .10s here and there, but, how off could me and the stop watch really be?
Maybe those Greenfilters are prohibitive as that is my ONLY mod.
SM
2001 BMW M3 Coupe (U.S.) 4.8 n/a
2001 BMW M3 Convertible (U.S.) 5.4 n/a
That's what BMWUSA says I think
http://www.albeedigital.com/supercou...0-60times.html
SM
that is your one major variable, and the dealer will insist you remove them before they start looking for problems with your engine.
Another option is to pay and have it dynoed, I did it for $120 and it was worth to see the 411 ft/lb torque with my own eyes (Assuming a 35% correction that is).
The AMG's should have something around a 25% driveline loss (from what I'm assuming as a automatic).
I normally use 20% as it's a pretty nice automatic
I need to try it again after the new tires get worn in a little more.
I need to try it again after the new tires get worn in a little more.
Torque wins races.
Horsepower sells cars.
E55 has torque.

Don't you love my logic?
Torque wins races.
Horsepower sells cars.
E55 has torque.

Don't you love my logic?
I get between 6.5 and 6.8 on my CDI, but the book figure is closer to 6.6.... I think those numbers are with test equipment, etc..
Also wait for the engine to brake in... it will get a few more horses.
If its a C32 its pretty good?? Not so sure how you think 0-60 in 5.8+ is good for a C32. Its bad for a C32. You drive a CDI and not a C32. Do you own a C32? I suggest you edit your post and take back the ignorant false statement ASAP.
C32 should be matching pretty much that, they are direct (seriously direct) competitors.
But that's a moot point, the man has a C55, which should be as fast as, or faster than a C32.
So I've concluded that the parent poster needs to wait another few thousand miles and attempt again, however with a much more accurate way of measuring his performance. A stop watch has simply too many variables.

Go shove it pal, or at least your elitist attitude.. I've driven 90% of the benzes sold today.. my family together probably has more AMG's than most dealers in their inventory. I chose to drive a CDI cause I believe in Diesel, not cause it's all I can afford.
The stock C32 is between 5.1 and 5.3 in all the published data.. so a driver could easily time it a 5.8 on a stop watch by had.
Are you saying the C32 is quicker than the C55 or something?


