Changing brake-pads, rotors, brake-lines this weekend.
This will be my first real mechanical procedure with this car. My previous mechanical experience is like I changed the alternator, brakes, thermostat etc... [OMFG is it 20 farking years ago already??!?!?!] in my '83 Caprice Classic when I was 16.
I have a lot of generic tools, of all sizes, torx, allen, etc... what other tools might I need for this job (I've heard there is a retainer for the rotor that might be a special tool)? Also any advice on where to get a procedure and the order for bleeding the brakes?
Is the best place to jack the front of this car up on that center pad under the center of the motor and put jack-stands under the body near the front door hinge?
Any other advice appreciated! Thanks.

I'm going to change my pads soon and I'm interested in finding out where you got your Axxis pads??? I had those on z BMW and liked them alot and they are a lot cheaper than the Porterfields.




I'm going to change my pads soon and I'm interested in finding out where you got your Axxis pads??? I had those on z BMW and liked them alot and they are a lot cheaper than the Porterfields.
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Order for bleeding brakes
Any special tools/tips for this procedure.
Many thanks!
Bif
make sure you have at least four C-clamps to compress each piston on the front (although if you put the pads and rotors back together before you put the lines on, this will probably not be an issue...but it could be risky because you might chance getting fluid on the new pads if you are not extremely careful, fyi)
make sure you use some pretty thick towels or rags if you are going to use the C-clamps, otherwise you will be repainting your calipers...
the pads load from the top of the caliper, not the bottom, so if you weren't changing the rotors, the whole car would probaly take about 30 min...
i can't ever remember the bleeding order because i don't do it enough, but you start at the left front, right front, left rear, right rear...if not, then it is exactly backwards from that...
make sure you torque your wheels so that it is even all the way around the lug pattern...
AND PLEASE bed-in your brakes properly...if you don't know how, go read the tech articles on stoptech's website...if you don't do this, all of your effort will be in vain...
Caliper piston compressors
www.elpsotools.com
I while back I did a small how too, in simple terms. look / search under Front brake pad dust
After many Trips I was cleaning the disc brake dust & rewaxing all the wheels on the CLK 5.5. So I talked to my Friend at The garage to see if he has had any experence with EBC Sport Formula (Green Stuff) disc brake Pads. Butch & Jerry @ Butch Stokes Automotive in Pembroke Park FL. Near Miami & Ft. Lauderdale. Have installed them on Lots of Porsche's
With no customer complaints. So I order front Pads Part Number DP21363 & rear pads Part Number DP2887 . I installed them Myself. ALSO HAD THE REAR CALIPERS painted Silver ( hi temp Urathane 2 part Paint). I recently had the rotors replaced ,Warped . Car only had 8000 miles.So I didn't need to put a fresh cut on them. Please note This is a 03 Car. It has 4 piston Brembo's in the front and what looks like E55 amg / 300 series 91 thru 93 . Brakes in the rear. (2 piston cast iron) I know 05 CLK 5.5 AMG has Brembo's front (6 piston) & Rear (4 piston) so the part numbers will differ.. Expect to spent about a hour per wheel labor time , with cleaning the old dust off. It was just a simple to drive the retainer pins out , drop in the new pads.
I did a little extra work. and applied a little constant pressure to the brake pedal , with a 2x4 cut to lenght , wedge between the lower seat frame & the brake pedal. WHY?
This closes off the brake fluid inlet port in the master cylinder and keeps any old contaminated fluid from being force back in the the brake system , when you compress the pistons to install the new thicker pads. Put a 12"piece of clear hose on the caliper Bleeder screw , Then take a empty 16 oz water bottle , drill a hole in the top ,not to big ,sized to the clear hose , to capture the old fluid . Watch out brake fluid will lift or damage any paint it touchs. Please despose of the fluid properly ,DO NOT REUSE IT. Have fresh DOT #3 brake fluid on hand. When each wheel is done , release the brake pedal , do not apply pedal pressure yet , be ready to top off the master cylinder. At this time,
Repete for each wheel job , start with the wheel closest to the master cylinder . POOF a saturday morning gone . Time to seat up the new pads as per EBC instructions
The brakes seated up quickly & actually work better than than the OEM pads ,Seat of Pants / No fading or noise, BEST OF ALL NO DUST!!
Retail price for the front pads is $158.40 & rear is $94.40. Butch & Jerry also offered a discount on the pads (Met) Tire rack Pricing.
Next task is Exhaust
Last edited by PTE; Jul 12, 2006 at 07:12 PM.




I was just quoted 175 and 165 at 2 different dealers.
Anyone find a good aftermarket rotor?
I'd like to get ones that are directional instead of 2 rights.
I'm thinking Porterfield pads.
I am not saying these are good pads for our car. I have never used them nor do I know anyone who has. Please do your research on these before buying them. If anyone on this forum know about these from experience please chime in.
Part Name: Brake Pad Set
Part Number: DP21363 = $92.70
Brand: EBC
Fits:
3.2L, Supercharged – C32 AMG
5.5L – CL55 AMG
5.5L – S55 AMG
========================
Part Name: Brake Pad Set REAR
Part Number: DP2887 = $56.70
Brand: EBC
Fits:
3.2L, Supercharged – C32 AMG
3.2L, Supercharged – SLK
5.5L – CLK55 AMG
5.5L – E55 AMG
EBC also has a RED STUFF PAD that is supposed to be better than there classic GREEN STUFF PAD.
Last edited by alterego; Aug 16, 2006 at 10:21 AM.




