cost of a brake job for C32?
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From: so cal
2007 E550 and 2007 335i
cost of a brake job for C32?
I have 62,000 miles on my c32 and the brake wear warning has just shown up. I was wondering how many miles until I should get them fixed?? And also has everyone replaced the rotors at every brake job. I was quoted 1040.00 to do the job with all new rotors. Is that fair.
Thanks
Stevec32
Thanks
Stevec32
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From: Sebring, FL
Black 2002 C32 AMG
My dealer quoted me $650 or so for 2 new factory front rotors and pads all the way around installed. If you have the skills / tools to do it your self you could do it for cheaper if you bought the parts from the right place. If break dust bothers you from your factory pads I have read really great reviews on the Porterfield R-4 S pads AP847-R4S FRONTS $172 / AP603.R-R4S REAR $105 They cost allot more but have over 50% dust.
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From: Okinawa, Japan
'02 C32 AMG, '69 BMW 2002, MC-130H
I don't understand...
why people randomly like to replace parts on these cars. If the rotors are good, why replace them? To put it in perspective a little, what if I said you need to replace the factory rims at 60,000? Or the trunk carpet? or the steering wheel? Unless you abuse the **** out of your brake system you should not have to replace rotors at 60k unless you just like to throw money away to the stealership or whoever is suckering you. If you do the brakes as soon as the pads start to wear down the rotors are going to be fine. Think of it this way. The pads are made of a much softer material so that as you use your brakes they will wear away (thus your dust) but they rotors are of a much harder material and with the AMG is even of a larger (thus better heat transfer from the friction) variety then your other W203. You shouldn't have to replace rotors unless you have F'ed them up trying to autocross and warped them or you drove around with your pads worn down to nothing. It's up to you, but I have better things to spend my money on then lining someone else's pocket for services I don't require. Get that cool updated grille and flat emblem instead with the money you saved by not doing unneccesary maintenance.
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From: Southern Cal
a C32 AMG & S-Works Tarmac
Originally Posted by herkjerk
why people randomly like to replace parts on these cars. If the rotors are good, why replace them? Unless you abuse the **** out of your brake system you should not have to replace rotors at 60k unless you just like to throw money away to the stealership or whoever is suckering you. If you do the brakes as soon as the pads start to wear down the rotors are going to be fine. Think of it this way. The pads are made of a much softer material so that as you use your brakes they will wear away (thus your dust) but they rotors are of a much harder material and with the AMG is even of a larger (thus better heat transfer from the friction) variety then your other W203.
Last edited by ScottW911; Sep 2, 2006 at 04:07 PM.
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From: Okinawa, Japan
'02 C32 AMG, '69 BMW 2002, MC-130H
If you say so...
My wife drives a jeep and we have had no problem with the rotors on it either. If this is the case though, then it would make a lot of sense that if you do plan on replacing your rotors then you use an aftermarket replacement which does not use a substandard material or manufacturing technique. I can see no visible difference between the rotors on my MB and any other vehicle I have ever owned as far as material goes but who knows. I was simply replying based on general knowledge and past experience. Regardless, if the rotors aren't damaged I don't see why you would replace them and I am a very paranoid preventitive maintenance type guy, but whatever floats your boat I guess.
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From: Okinawa, Japan
'02 C32 AMG, '69 BMW 2002, MC-130H
Also...
Here's some other info on this stuff I was able to dig up from other sites. Also, from what I have read, the brakes on T&C's, caravans, etc are complete ****. I would not compare those braking systems to what is on our cars. Here's what I dug up, cut and pasted to here. Hope it helps:
#1 The rotors are replaced when they mike below their wear limit. If you don't trust the dealer, you can either find someone you do trust or pull and measure them yourself.
If you believe they are at the engineering wear limit but don't want to do it, you're free to push the limit. Understand that below the limit you must expect increased fade (less heat dissipation) and possibly other problems as the calipers are called on to extend the pistons beyond their design limits.
Frequent rotor replacement is an unfortunate consequence of manufacturers' using less steel in order to decrease unsprung weight.
#2 A quick way to tell if the rotors need to be replaced is the following:
Run your fingernail from the inside to the outside (i.e. from the inner part of the disc to the outer edge). If you notice a ridge at the outer edge, than your rotors should be replaced.
Note: Obviously don't do this after you have been driving the car hard....
#3 By the way, the ridge test is not nearly as precise as measuring the rotors. It's hard to judge how much meat is gone. But there are so many things you really should check (runout, thickness variation, warping) when doing a brake job that it's generally smart to just replace the rotors if in any doubt. A few hundred bucks is a cheap price to have effective brakes.
If one of the above was your post on another board, please pardon the plagerizm. This stuff came out of a thread started by Bif Powell who also posts here regularly. Again, I hope it helps
#1 The rotors are replaced when they mike below their wear limit. If you don't trust the dealer, you can either find someone you do trust or pull and measure them yourself.
If you believe they are at the engineering wear limit but don't want to do it, you're free to push the limit. Understand that below the limit you must expect increased fade (less heat dissipation) and possibly other problems as the calipers are called on to extend the pistons beyond their design limits.
Frequent rotor replacement is an unfortunate consequence of manufacturers' using less steel in order to decrease unsprung weight.
#2 A quick way to tell if the rotors need to be replaced is the following:
Run your fingernail from the inside to the outside (i.e. from the inner part of the disc to the outer edge). If you notice a ridge at the outer edge, than your rotors should be replaced.
Note: Obviously don't do this after you have been driving the car hard....
#3 By the way, the ridge test is not nearly as precise as measuring the rotors. It's hard to judge how much meat is gone. But there are so many things you really should check (runout, thickness variation, warping) when doing a brake job that it's generally smart to just replace the rotors if in any doubt. A few hundred bucks is a cheap price to have effective brakes.
If one of the above was your post on another board, please pardon the plagerizm. This stuff came out of a thread started by Bif Powell who also posts here regularly. Again, I hope it helps
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Diamond Bar & Anaheim, CA
2003 C-Class Sportcoupe
Originally Posted by herkjerk
Here's some other info on this stuff I was able to dig up from other sites. Also, from what I have read, the brakes on T&C's, caravans, etc are complete ****. I would not compare those braking systems to what is on our cars. Here's what I dug up, cut and pasted to here. Hope it helps:
#1 The rotors are replaced when they mike below their wear limit. If you don't trust the dealer, you can either find someone you do trust or pull and measure them yourself.
If you believe they are at the engineering wear limit but don't want to do it, you're free to push the limit. Understand that below the limit you must expect increased fade (less heat dissipation) and possibly other problems as the calipers are called on to extend the pistons beyond their design limits.
Frequent rotor replacement is an unfortunate consequence of manufacturers' using less steel in order to decrease unsprung weight.
#2 A quick way to tell if the rotors need to be replaced is the following:
Run your fingernail from the inside to the outside (i.e. from the inner part of the disc to the outer edge). If you notice a ridge at the outer edge, than your rotors should be replaced.
Note: Obviously don't do this after you have been driving the car hard....
#3 By the way, the ridge test is not nearly as precise as measuring the rotors. It's hard to judge how much meat is gone. But there are so many things you really should check (runout, thickness variation, warping) when doing a brake job that it's generally smart to just replace the rotors if in any doubt. A few hundred bucks is a cheap price to have effective brakes.
If one of the above was your post on another board, please pardon the plagerizm. This stuff came out of a thread started by Bif Powell who also posts here regularly. Again, I hope it helps
#1 The rotors are replaced when they mike below their wear limit. If you don't trust the dealer, you can either find someone you do trust or pull and measure them yourself.
If you believe they are at the engineering wear limit but don't want to do it, you're free to push the limit. Understand that below the limit you must expect increased fade (less heat dissipation) and possibly other problems as the calipers are called on to extend the pistons beyond their design limits.
Frequent rotor replacement is an unfortunate consequence of manufacturers' using less steel in order to decrease unsprung weight.
#2 A quick way to tell if the rotors need to be replaced is the following:
Run your fingernail from the inside to the outside (i.e. from the inner part of the disc to the outer edge). If you notice a ridge at the outer edge, than your rotors should be replaced.
Note: Obviously don't do this after you have been driving the car hard....
#3 By the way, the ridge test is not nearly as precise as measuring the rotors. It's hard to judge how much meat is gone. But there are so many things you really should check (runout, thickness variation, warping) when doing a brake job that it's generally smart to just replace the rotors if in any doubt. A few hundred bucks is a cheap price to have effective brakes.
If one of the above was your post on another board, please pardon the plagerizm. This stuff came out of a thread started by Bif Powell who also posts here regularly. Again, I hope it helps
Use a digital caliper gauge to measure the rotor thickness. You do not need to remove the brake assembly to do this. Fingernail test is a bit questionable. If you track your car and end up replacing rotors often, consider getting cryo treated tempered rotors.
