Kmac camber kit - review
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Kmac camber kit - review
I've heard a few C32 owners have installed these - yet a search of this forum revealed little.
Could anyone that has installed these please comment. I know the ride will stiffen up, yet I have heard the durability and adjustability of these more than makes up for the loss of ride quality.
Could anyone that has installed these please comment. I know the ride will stiffen up, yet I have heard the durability and adjustability of these more than makes up for the loss of ride quality.
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C32 AMG
Google is your friend. (See link below.)
If you search this forum, I think there is some discussion of the product. You could also search AudiWorld. My recollection is that they perform as promised, but there are stories of premature failure of the KMac unit. Also, users reported that the top of the front tire would rub on the strut housing if you put in significant negative camber. It might require spacers if you want serious negative camber.
http://kmac.3x3design.com/cms/cat.pdf
If you search this forum, I think there is some discussion of the product. You could also search AudiWorld. My recollection is that they perform as promised, but there are stories of premature failure of the KMac unit. Also, users reported that the top of the front tire would rub on the strut housing if you put in significant negative camber. It might require spacers if you want serious negative camber.
http://kmac.3x3design.com/cms/cat.pdf
Last edited by Fifth Ring; Nov 29, 2006 at 01:13 PM.
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It appears they are just eccentric bushings for the front and rear:
http://www.kmac.3x3design.com/cms/in...d=30&Itemid=40
They're extremely pricy for what they are as well!!!
http://www.kmac.3x3design.com/cms/in...d=30&Itemid=40
They're extremely pricy for what they are as well!!!
Last edited by spr; Nov 29, 2006 at 01:25 PM.
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I've gone very low, to the point camber bolts in the front don't help much. The rear wasn't so bad this year cause I left the car "raked" yet next year I want to slam it so I am starting off by trying to correct the camber as much as possible.
I wish there was a better way to fix the front camber since the K-mas front kit supposively sucks.
I wish there was a better way to fix the front camber since the K-mas front kit supposively sucks.
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From: Jacksonville Florida
209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
The REAR K Mac kit requires that the OE Rear LOWER control Arm bushings be pressed out and The Kmac Bushings Pressed in ..It Will NOT Affect the ride..
the rear springs must be removed to remove the lower a arms AND One Must have a press or Use a Bushing Press tool ..One comes with the kit...
Or Another option is to Install a set of Adjustable Camber bars..That replace the upper Arms on the Rear Suspension..this takes about 10 min
I have the Adjustable arms on my W210 and had them on my W203..they work Sweet..NO More rear camber problems!
For The front MB makes a OE Bolt (X4) aka Repair Bolt for front adjustment
the rear springs must be removed to remove the lower a arms AND One Must have a press or Use a Bushing Press tool ..One comes with the kit...
Or Another option is to Install a set of Adjustable Camber bars..That replace the upper Arms on the Rear Suspension..this takes about 10 min
I have the Adjustable arms on my W210 and had them on my W203..they work Sweet..NO More rear camber problems!
For The front MB makes a OE Bolt (X4) aka Repair Bolt for front adjustment
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From: Jacksonville Florida
209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
I've gone very low, to the point camber bolts in the front don't help much. The rear wasn't so bad this year cause I left the car "raked" yet next year I want to slam it so I am starting off by trying to correct the camber as much as possible.
I wish there was a better way to fix the front camber since the K-mas front kit supposively sucks.
I wish there was a better way to fix the front camber since the K-mas front kit supposively sucks.
Do a search on Upper adjustable Spring mounts..That will solve the problem
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Does someone make adjustable upper mounts then? As long as they don't wear out then that would be the ideal way to change the alignment in the front. It's insteresting that the KXXX just uses eccentric bushings that you press in and out. I wonder how they stay in that position however? I guess the sleeve is grooved to lock them in or something.
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The REAR K Mac kit requires that the OE Rear LOWER control Arm bushings be pressed out and The Kmac Bushings Pressed in ..It Will NOT Affect the ride..
the rear springs must be removed to remove the lower a arms AND One Must have a press or Use a Bushing Press tool ..One comes with the kit...
Or Another option is to Install a set of Adjustable Camber bars..That replace the upper Arms on the Rear Suspension..this takes about 10 min
I have the Adjustable arms on my W210 and had them on my W203..they work Sweet..NO More rear camber problems!
the rear springs must be removed to remove the lower a arms AND One Must have a press or Use a Bushing Press tool ..One comes with the kit...
Or Another option is to Install a set of Adjustable Camber bars..That replace the upper Arms on the Rear Suspension..this takes about 10 min
I have the Adjustable arms on my W210 and had them on my W203..they work Sweet..NO More rear camber problems!
I'll write up a review when I get them. AFAIK the ride quality should change as the K-mas bushings have less give then the OEM MB bushings.
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From: OC
C32
Is this from experience? I heard from a member here that they shake your teeth loose. You are removing liquid filled bushings and replacing them with poly.
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The REAR K Mac kit requires that the OE Rear LOWER control Arm bushings be pressed out and The Kmac Bushings Pressed in ..It Will NOT Affect the ride..
the rear springs must be removed to remove the lower a arms AND One Must have a press or Use a Bushing Press tool ..One comes with the kit...
Or Another option is to Install a set of Adjustable Camber bars..That replace the upper Arms on the Rear Suspension..this takes about 10 min
I have the Adjustable arms on my W210 and had them on my W203..they work Sweet..NO More rear camber problems!
For The front MB makes a OE Bolt (X4) aka Repair Bolt for front adjustment
the rear springs must be removed to remove the lower a arms AND One Must have a press or Use a Bushing Press tool ..One comes with the kit...
Or Another option is to Install a set of Adjustable Camber bars..That replace the upper Arms on the Rear Suspension..this takes about 10 min
I have the Adjustable arms on my W210 and had them on my W203..they work Sweet..NO More rear camber problems!
For The front MB makes a OE Bolt (X4) aka Repair Bolt for front adjustment
The factory parts are very soft (the two thrust arm bushigns from the factory up front are liquid filled) and allow for tons of bushing deflection. The k-mac parts are far firmer and work very well for those looking for added performance and road feel. If you just want to go back to stock camber in the rear after lowering the car and not mess with ride get a camber link from speedybenz and be happy. The K-mac parts are just to firm for some but perfect for what I like.
The front kit allows you to have up to 2.2 degrees of negative camber (up to 3 if you add washers to shim out the hub at the strut tube). This is what we wanted for the car as it has a life at the track but most do not want -3 degrees of camber. It may be slightly to much but we need to change the caster down from 12 degrees before we change the camber down to 2.2 again).
Pretty much just wanted to say that the front and rear kits DO firm the ride up and some would not like the car with the kit installed. Just a warning to people who like ride quality.
Zepplin was 100% correct.
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Mercedes Benz
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From: OC
C32
Carvin,
I now have perfect tire wear in the front with the 1 washer and the crash bolts. I'm not sure anything more than 1.5 - 2 degrees in the front is necessary. I actually had more wear on the inside of my right front at the last track event even though it was mostly right turns.. The left front showed perfect wear
I now have perfect tire wear in the front with the 1 washer and the crash bolts. I'm not sure anything more than 1.5 - 2 degrees in the front is necessary. I actually had more wear on the inside of my right front at the last track event even though it was mostly right turns.. The left front showed perfect wear
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C32 AMG
Carvin,
I now have perfect tire wear in the front with the 1 washer and the crash bolts. I'm not sure anything more than 1.5 - 2 degrees in the front is necessary. I actually had more wear on the inside of my right front at the last track event even though it was mostly right turns.. The left front showed perfect wear
I now have perfect tire wear in the front with the 1 washer and the crash bolts. I'm not sure anything more than 1.5 - 2 degrees in the front is necessary. I actually had more wear on the inside of my right front at the last track event even though it was mostly right turns.. The left front showed perfect wear
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From: OC
C32
I think we're talking about 2 different objectives. For a lowered car, the change in suspension geometry can make tires wear unevenly in street use, and you can correct it with washers/kmac. But if you're looking for balanced handling (less understeer) then you are using the same hardware to change geometry for track handling it might prolong tire life at the track, but not for the street.
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Mercedes Benz
Carvin,
I now have perfect tire wear in the front with the 1 washer and the crash bolts. I'm not sure anything more than 1.5 - 2 degrees in the front is necessary. I actually had more wear on the inside of my right front at the last track event even though it was mostly right turns.. The left front showed perfect wear
I now have perfect tire wear in the front with the 1 washer and the crash bolts. I'm not sure anything more than 1.5 - 2 degrees in the front is necessary. I actually had more wear on the inside of my right front at the last track event even though it was mostly right turns.. The left front showed perfect wear
With less caster and a bit more body roll (to actually transfer load) the tires may have better wear. We shall see! Testing is part of the game =)
Streets of willow is a must soon. Bring the CRX!
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Mercedes Benz
Ideal likely is what Zepp has for most track driving and anything you can do on the streets.
Good luck!
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From: OC
C32
Niether one will affect understeer to a degree that you will notice it. They are mainly to help with tire wear. If you do not have any tire wear on the outside edges of the fronts then don't bother with either.
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From: OC
C32
Thats true zepp but we drive the car a bit harder than you might. We use ESP off 100% of the time and flog the car around the corners from what looks to be a tad bit more speed. Every few miles an hour at the track in such a heavy car puts a lot more load on front tires. The BMW runs 3.5 degrees of neg camber but has less toe and less caster. 3 degrees normally is not to much for track use but I cant speak for sure since we have not solved the tire wear issue. Two track days from now we will know what the best solution is.
With less caster and a bit more body roll (to actually transfer load) the tires may have better wear. We shall see! Testing is part of the game =)
Streets of willow is a must soon. Bring the CRX!
With less caster and a bit more body roll (to actually transfer load) the tires may have better wear. We shall see! Testing is part of the game =)
Streets of willow is a must soon. Bring the CRX!
