Marc may be saying to upgrade your battery because of the underdrivepulleys. I am told that underdrive pulleys can have an adverse affect on the Alternator and batttery output. I see it on my Eagle Talon when the lights get dim at idle and get brighter when I step on the gas. Both the Alternator and battery are fairly new.

 

You need to make sure the car is not knocking because of too much timing advance. You don't wanna hurt the motor. You probably don't have to worry about this as much as the F/I guys do Marc.

PS I called you months bac to invite you to Captree or one of the AMG/BMW runs we had upstate, and I left a message,but just like a Lawyer,they never return your calls!

 

Very nice numbers!

 

Regarding underdrive pulleys, I can say this from my own experience --- DON'T get one for the alternator! There is virtually NO gain in changing a pulley with that small of a diameter, and it almost always leads to electrical system issues. IMO it's just not worth the risk, nor the expense. I'd bet on a dyno you'd see less than 1 hp difference, which is virtually a wash. You'd pick up as much by emptying the trunk...

Anything I've ever run an underdrive alternator pulley on --- I took them back off per the adverse affects. You certainly shouldn't have to buy a better battery to compensate for a lack in the alternator's charging ability. And remember, once the car is running, you are no longer being powered by the battery. The alternator is doing all the work at that point.

I would however recommend an Optima for anyone who's willing to pay the extra cost, as they are a much better design and more durable than any standard OE style replacement. More starting power via CCA ratings. And they won't ever leak. A good choice for sure!

 

I think a small one on the crank gives problems too,that's why I'm getting rid of the one on my Talon.

Electrical issues is the truth.

 

When I purchased my pullies I only got water pump and powersteering from Evosport about a year ago.

 

IMO; NA POWER IS SO MUCH SWEETER THEN TURBO OR SUPERCHERGED, EVEN THOUGH IT COST A LOT AND YOU DON'T GET MUCH BUT IT'S JUST SO MUCH FUNNER TO DRIVE NA CAR

 

WHY

Don't you like bottom end torque?

To each his own, but I have either bought a FI car or added a FI unit on everycar I have owned in the recent past, aobut 15 years, to make the car ALOT more drivable around the city.

Yeah, it is sweet to make over 1 HP per cubic inch NA, and I have done that to in the 80's, but what you loose on the bottom of the graph isn't worth it IMHO.

See yeah

 

Exactly right.

JToups: I don't really know that the xenon problem is related to the udp's (I only believe that they are related). MB even published a repair memo listing flickering xenon lights as a common problem for our cars (a copy is in this forum). I had the dealer replace the xenon bulbs three times under warranty post installation of the udp's. And, if the battery has no effect on the electrical system once the car is running, why would installing the Optima Red Top eliminate 99% of my flickering problem. I thought the battery acts as a capacitor once the car is running and continues to supply its various electrical components with power.

Carl: Would love to get together with you and the guys on various runs. However, like most attorneys, I work weekends often enough. Maybe this summer will be better.

 

The feeling is just diferent, FIs feel like something is pushing you, yes NAs are not as fast tuned but still sweeter! Why do you think M3s and Ferrari F430/360/350 are so much loved by enthusiasts, it just is more sweeter to drive high reving NA car! BTW I drive FI car but never again, IMO turbos are even worse then superchargered engines, no feel, just anormous power all the suden

 

You gotta be kidding me right???? Drive the W211E55 or any F/I car and come back to us ! Nothing is more fun than driving in an F/I car. Turbo power is much better and more efficient than supercharged pwr as well.

 

After the Roger Clemmens defense you'll be rich!!!!

Marc we r looking to go out to Captree on Sunday Bro!! But I'll continue to keep you posted if you cannot make it.

 

FWIW, you're debating this with someone who uses "much funner" and "more sweeter" in sentences...

 

Silly me! Why did'nt I pick that up!!!!

 

Cmon; English is my 2nd language; BTW I did drive E55 many times; yes it is very neck snappin fast, but you don't understand what I am trying to say, I know you are an FI guy so I am vasting my time arguing this. Everybody likes different things, IMO NA engines are more enjoyable even though they are not as fast

 

Dead on as usual my friend

EVERY undrive systme I ever used, gave me HEADACHES with flickering lights/dead batteries/poor stereo/etc, etc.
I took off my alternator pulley, and just used the crank as well. I agree TOTALLY about the HP saving with the alternator, because after all, if the battery is charged, the alternator is doing NO work, okay MINIMAL work to be exact. Hence NO GAIN.

See yeah

PS: I sold my underdrive pullies off of my 91 Stang when it was stock, because of NO GAINS. Three passes 14.4 at 96mph, with undrive pullies, swapped at the track in COOLER denser evening air, guess what 14.4 at 96. Oh yeah, my lights flickerd all the way home because it started to rain, with AC, with stereo equals DISCHARGED battery, FYI

 

tump can i see pics of your car?

 

Yep I'm going through all this hell now having this stupid unorthodox pulley on my Talon. I can see my battery voltage gauge just dropping voltage as I drive the car till I have to shut off the heat and my car stereo so that I wont stall out. Sometimes I even have to shut off the headlights temporarily at night if I have all the other stuff on!

 

I too had flickering at night on my E36 M3 w/ underdrive crank. Thats why stock lightweight aftermarket crank pulley and underdrive accessory pulley kits w/ stock alternator pulley are the best options. Anything underdriving the crank and underdriving alternator... big no no.