ImportLabSRT

Ok ok ok.....Im here finally. I have the LET High Stall in my Turbo'd Crossfire and absolutely love it. With the stock converter I was only getting about 11-1200 rpms when trying to launch with the beast of a GT35R turbo and only get 1-2lbs of boost. Now I see between 22-2500 rpms and 10lbs of boost and she hauls ***. . Driveability is a lot better too! No more hunting for gear at a 45 mph cruise, the 1500 rpm stutter is non existent and when you hit the kick down switch...the converter loads and sends the car flying.

Dingleberry

bump

why aren't more people running this converter?

bassn_07

I'm also curious to hear from members and not vendors on this product. Does anyone have any before and after track numbers with this HSTC from LET? I have a E55 and I would love to get my 60' times lower. Right now no other E55 on here or dragtimes have out 60' me with a HSTC or stock. My best 60' passes to date are 1.585, 1.586, 1.587, 1.588, and (2) 1.592. If I could improve on this please let me know.

Dingleberry

i'm just trying to get rid of the annoying tranny jerk, forget the performance.

SilverBulletAMG

Jerry initially said the ECU tune would get rid of the jerk. It did...for a couple days. If this HSTC was able to get rid of the jerk permanently, it would be well worth it for that alone!

Zeppelin

I am all for getting rid of the jerk but how is it in everyday driving. If the lockup has been shifted to 2K rpm or so from 1200-1500 rpm does the motor rev up to 2k before you go anywhere? I have never driven a car with a high stall converter in it.

Dingleberry

not at all, at least if this is a quality converter, it should not. i drove around in a 700hp vette with a vigilante converter configured at 4200rpm stall () and the converter stays pretty tight even off idle. back in the day (and some current crappy manufacturers), high stall torque converters were really loose and sloppy, but this does not apply to modern high quality converters.

AMGSC

So do we have a final tally of how many of these LET HSTCs were sold and what the feedback has been?

I really love mine and do notice that I need to Rev it up more than stock form when I leave the light. Thank God I sold my Sprintbooster although I bought a Velocity adjustible one.

One way to find out the difference is to hold the brake down and press the gas pedal until the RPM peaks. In stock form it stops at around 1500rpm. Now mine stops at 2700rpm.

Dingleberry

i wish someone with an '02 c32 could confirm if this gets rid of the stupid torque converter jerks. driving me nuts...

70GS455

How about cutting open the stock converter, re-stalling (re-shaping the stator vanes) it, and have it welded back together? This gets done all the time and is cost effective.

70GS455

How is this unit for top-end coupling efficiency? I.E. how do the trap speeds improve/decrease?

msheredy

I believe this still retains the lockup function so the efficiency shouldn't be affected.

I'd like to know this as well. I'm really interested in what that turbo SRT6 has been up to since it utilizes the same converter.

Dingleberry

lockup is irrelevant during WOT.

msheredy

70GS455 asked about coupling efficiency. When a converter is locked up it is coupling effciency is theoretically 100%.

70GS455

What I meant to ask about was efficiency when the convertor is not locked up.

Often times a high stall convertor will slip more while at part throttle or WOT. That is what I am curious about.

As aside note: We discovered on turbo buicks that manually forcing the convertor to lock at WOT was worth about a tenth sec in the 1/4 mi. The tradeoff was shortened convertor clutch life. The aftermarket responded with convertors with improved clutch capacity so that lockup at WOT was no longer an issue.

RLx02

Double posted but whatever, answers are always good.

So just to clarify, a high stall torque converter, if i'm not mistaken, only lets you stall up to a higher RPM before you launch right?

Which is good for cars with drag slicks/lsd or AWD cars.

Now, for regular street cars like mine thats modded and have a hard time launching it in 1st anyways, I can only imagine that a HSTC would only amplify the problem.

For instance, when I launch my car in 1st gear, I can only give it maybe 20% power initially and then give it about 60% gas near the end of first (with ESP off) and then finally can go WOT after engaging second gear.

If i torque-brake to load the transmission up I spin out even more in 1st. It seems like if I just increase the stall speed on my car it would just amplify the problem.

Wouldn't it be more cost effective to put on a pair of drag slicks to hook up and reduce the ET of a drag run?

OR

Do HSTC also affect how much power the tranny is putting to the ground in addition to raising the stall speed because it is a superior torque converter to the OEM piece?

I think I would have to get an LSD over a HSTC because my 1st gear is essentially useless now after my mods

70GS455

I emailed Don at PATC (transmissioncenter.net) and for $350 he will re-stall the convertor to as much as 800 RPM over stock for $350. This does not include shipping and he will need you to send your convertor as he has no cores.

Dingleberry

converter.

is that all he does? no other upgrades to the converter? do you think that's all LET does to it?

70GS455

I didn't ask but common upgrades are to add a torrington bearing in place of any bushing and furnace brace the pump and turbine fins.

I don't know what LET does to theirs.

RedBull

Looks like I'm going to probably be needing one of these things sooner than later. Sounds like my torque converter is going out.

alkrstev

How can you tell if your torque converter is going out? What are your symptoms? I am just wondering because my car drives like crap with a newish 10k old torque converter.

RedBull

When I put the car in gear(drive or reverse) it makes a whining sound almost like a belt slipping. Once I get rolling and give it some gas, the sound goes away. The transmission shifts perfectly smooth, it's just that whining sound everytime the car is standing still and it's in gear.

Dingleberry

who came up with the diagnosis?

loungn14

ya, honestly that doesnt sound like the torque convertor. When it goes out or starts to go out you will notice you have to give more gas and the car just starts to slowly move.

RedBull

I had asked one of the guys there if they had to speculate, what they thought might be the problem. They said it might be the torque converter, and to keep an eye on it and see if it starts slipping. There are some times when it doesn't feel as responsive when it gets moving, but nothing real bad yet. Only other trans issue I've had was that I had the drive shaft replaced about a year ago. Like I said though, the car shifts perfectly smooth when driving it.