Originally Posted by 320 dreamer

go to apeusa.com for the cm30 johnson pump. 145$ shipped. when i replaced mine i used siome rubber tubing froma bike tire and wrapped the pump. then i drilled 1 hole and tapped it were the original pump mounts and used the cm30 mount in the same location. i also drilled out the electrical plug from the old unit and soldered and heat shrinked the pos. and neg wires to it with a small 20k capacitor so as to not have to cut any factory wires. replaced old clamps with new ones and refill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and m/b antifreeze. total time 2 hrs
be aware the new pump flows much more than the old. consider a code 3 or let heat exchanger so the flow wont back up at the intercooler inlet.

Originally Posted by boohooramblers

So.... You recently acquired your car and you coincidentally get a check engine light soon after your purchase?
Depending on who you purchased the car from, the seller could well have had the same codes and cleared them prior to selling it to you. It's unfortunate, but there are dishonest people like that out there. Sometimes the error codes reappear immediately; however, sometimes the error codes take days (or longer) to reappear.

You scanned via OBDII and found P2027, P207E, P200B, and P2003.

Even though your car only has 51K miles, these codes may not necessarily be related to each other and you may have several issues to contend with.

P2027:
As alluded to by the earlier responses by the guys, this code indicates your implausible IATs and that could be due to a faulty sensor or (more likely) a dysfunctional charge air cooling (IC) pump. Easy fix.

P207E and P200B:
These codes suggest that the efficiency of your left and right primary catalytic converters is insufficient.
You said that you smelled fuel and you are not positive as to which converters are present / absent. Look at the schematic below for the catalytic converters and determine which ones have been removed (if any). If your 1o catalytic converters are absent, then it is not surprising that you have P207E / P200B error codes.

P2003:
Can be related to P0410. This can be a malfunction of the secondary air injection system which is obviously a component of the emissions system. Several components may be suspect in this case; however a common problem is the faulty air pump and / or the air pump relay. If it isn't these, there could be problems with the O2 sensors, misfiring, or the EGR system.

Originally Posted by TBM1

Thanks for the response. I appreciate your input. Yah, it's "funny" how the codes popped up shortly after purchasing the car. I understand there are going to be issues with a used car I just wasn't expecting them already. I paid the car in full so if I have to spend a little cash to keep it up to par then so be it. I was even thinking about getting an aftermarket warranty, but am a little leary with all the fine print of some of those businesses. The new i/c pump is going in tommorow so we'll see if that's the fix. The pump was getting power, but you could tell by touching the pump it wasn't running. From the looks underneath the car it appears the 1o cats are removed. I'm also taking the car for an alignment as it has been lowered, but doesn't appear to have been aligned. Any other tips or suggestions? Being a newbie to MB world I appreciate all the feedback. Thanks!

Originally Posted by link146

Same thing happened to me about a month ago; however, I only got the 2ndary air injector error. I tell you what, to replace the air pump and relay your looking at $500.