* M112K Crank pulley / Vibration Damper / Harmonic Balancer information *
SubscribeJunior Member
Sorry to resurrect this thread. But recently I noticed the rubber piece of the harmonic damper is sticking out. So I'm thinking it's time for changing my original damper out. I have ~50k miles on it.
Question...should I go with the oem or an aftermarket? Will another oem damper go out again at another 50k?
Thx for any replies!
Question...should I go with the oem or an aftermarket? Will another oem damper go out again at another 50k?
Thx for any replies!
Junior Member
Quote:
Can u elaborate plz? Cause it seems like the weak link to the oem is the rubber. Which other cars I've seen really goes on for like 200k miles. But the Mercedes ones really ticks me off at only 50k. I really don't want to go through all this again at another 50k.Originally Posted by Jeff Cady
After investigating all the aftermarket pullies, I decided to just stick with OEM. Pricey but worth it.
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From I've read (on here)....... we have some very knowledgeable techs...... the orig OEM HD on these cars were not lasting long due to heat/vibs....... with failures after only a few years and 50k miles...... there is an updated OEM HD that should last longer.... but keep an eye on it.
the result of a failure is costly...... I'm watching mine as part of normal PM's.
the result of a failure is costly...... I'm watching mine as part of normal PM's.
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I was told by the Mercedes parts manager that this is an updated part and should not have the same problems as the original 2003 piece.
Quote:
A1120351600 is the new updated part number. Has the problem with the original version been eliminated - only the people using it can tell you.Originally Posted by Jeff Cady
I was told by the Mercedes parts manager that this is an updated part and should not have the same problems as the original 2003 piece.
Junior Member
Ok, I've placed an order with parts.com for the vibration damper. But their people wrote me back saying that the new part number is not for my slk32??!! They are insisting on sending me the old part number or I take full responsibility for the order?!?!? I would think if the new part number replaced the old part number, you wouldn't be able to order the old part. Should I order the NEW Part number?
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Junior Member
Thx for the reply Lenin. The web site you gave also had both part numbers listed being available. With old part number for the Vibration damper for my car while the new part number can not be verified to fit the slk32. I am just going to bite the bullet and order the new part number from parts.com. Hoping everything fits.
Quote:
You should be fine. Look at this link and notice the old part number and the new part number. http://www.parts.com/parts/index.cfm...earch&siteid=2Originally Posted by pi_4x4
Thx for the reply Lenin. The web site you gave also had both part numbers listed being available. With old part number for the Vibration damper for my car while the new part number can not be verified to fit the slk32. I am just going to bite the bullet and order the new part number from parts.com. Hoping everything fits.
Someone must have been
that day at parts.comMember
Would an unbalanced pulley cause a rough idle? It is only slightly low/rough (550 rpm) in drive but idles smoothly in park/neutral (700 rpm).
Just curious.
Just curious.
Junior Member
Quote:
Someone must have been
that day at parts.com
They've updated their website, because that note about the replacement was not there! I guess someone looked into it when I insisted on the new part number!Originally Posted by Lenin
You should be fine. Look at this link and notice the old part number and the new part number. http://www.parts.com/parts/index.cfm...earch&siteid=2Someone must have been
that day at parts.com
And fleishman, yes an unbalanced vibrational pulley can cause a rough idle. Think of a wheel spinning out there, with one side being heavier. As it spins, it can shake the car around. And hence will seem like having a rough idle.
Junior Member
I'm changing the coolant pump on my SL600 and looks like the damper has to come off to reach the bolts behind. Hence I found this great thread. Looks like I need the special tool to undo the crankshaft bolt. My question is will I need a special puller to get the damper off the crankshaft? Regards Greg
Junior Member
Quote:
Hi Greg,Originally Posted by Slyfox2062
I'm changing the coolant pump on my SL600 and looks like the damper has to come off to reach the bolts behind. Hence I found this great thread. Looks like I need the special tool to undo the crankshaft bolt. My question is will I need a special puller to get the damper off the crankshaft? Regards Greg
I don't know about the SL600, but for the SLK32 the pulley came right off by hand after removing the bolt. I do remember I had to use a cheater bar at least 2 foot long thou! Good luck!
Junior Member
Hi PI_4x4,
Thanks for the info, did you need a special tool to remove the crankshaft bolt. The tool prevents the crank from turning as you apply force to the bolt. I've seen on You Tube a mechanic jam the cheater bar on the block and then flick the starter! Maybe OK on a Chevy but don't want to chance that on my Benz.
Thanks for the info, did you need a special tool to remove the crankshaft bolt. The tool prevents the crank from turning as you apply force to the bolt. I've seen on You Tube a mechanic jam the cheater bar on the block and then flick the starter! Maybe OK on a Chevy but don't want to chance that on my Benz.
Thought I'd give this a kick in the guts once again.....
I'm looking into what diameter the A 112 035 07 00 or A 112 035 16 00 is.
Someone said 178mm.
In that case it wouldn't be a direct replacement for the stock 155mm in my SLK32 V6 3.2L. It would actually be an over speed pulley.
Can anyone assist?
I'm looking into what diameter the A 112 035 07 00 or A 112 035 16 00 is.
Someone said 178mm.
In that case it wouldn't be a direct replacement for the stock 155mm in my SLK32 V6 3.2L. It would actually be an over speed pulley.
Can anyone assist?

