Intercooler Pump Trouble Shooting Check List
Here are a couple that I have come up with from a brief search:
- IC pump relay in the front sam
- Intake air temperature sensor is damaged
- IC pump fuse in the rear of the car
Here are a couple that I have come up with from a brief search:
- IC pump relay in the front sam
- Intake air temperature sensor is damaged
- IC pump fuse in the rear of the car
-Low level coolant sensor is working?
- after a short drive, shut off car and RUN
right next to the front passenger tire and you should hear a humming sound 10-20 sec.
Here are a couple that I have come up with from a brief search:
- IC pump relay in the front sam
- Intake air temperature sensor is damaged
- IC pump fuse in the rear of the car
- IC pump and it's coolant circuit have not been bled adequately.
This is relevant after changing the stock unit to another Bosch or CM30 unit or having replaced your coolant.
- IATs are too high (regardless of a properly functioning IC pump).
Many members are of the opinion that the IC pump (if working properly) will cool their intake air sufficiently. This is NOT necessarily true. If you are 'driving' your IATs above what the IC circuit can cool adequately to achieve plausible readings, the IC pump will not be sufficient.
Fortunately, the functioning IC pump will eventually decrease IATs; however, the supercharger may shut down in the meantime. This is especially important for those of you with significantly larger overdrive pulley systems (and hot ambient temperatures). Of course, the only real way to alleviate this problem is to use a different IC design (including top mount IC, dedicated IC circuit, and larger heat exchangers).
I can still hear the pump on for a few seconds after I turn off the car, so I think it's still working, but I don't know what would be causing my problems. So I'm going to start with the IC pump and then check every thing after that to see what could be causing the problems.
The plan is:
- Replace IC pump and check all fuses and relays (hopefully I can rule out the IC pump if I can make sure it is functioning and all the fuses and relays are good)
- Replace coolant level sensor
- Do the coolant seperation
- New plugs and wires
Maybe this will alleviate my lack of acceleration issues.
I can still hear the pump on for a few seconds after I turn off the car, so I think it's still working, but I don't know what would be causing my problems. So I'm going to start with the IC pump and then check every thing after that to see what could be causing the problems.
The plan is:
- Replace IC pump and check all fuses and relays (hopefully I can rule out the IC pump if I can make sure it is functioning and all the fuses and relays are good)
- Replace coolant level sensor
- Do the coolant seperation
- New plugs and wires
Maybe this will alleviate my lack of acceleration issues.
even though you can hear the pump runninng after you shut off the engine, when i tore my old pump apart you could see 2 distinct burnt areas in the windings. the pump would work on an intermittent basis, leading me to think something else was wrong. with the addition of a larger h/e and a cm30 pump i havent had a single s/c shutdown



