I'm doing my brakes and rotors today, and I was wondering if anyone had a website with a diy instructions. I can't seem to find a direct one on the site.

All I know for sure is I need a torx bit set. Anyone have some words of help? Thanks.

 

Take a look at this link: http://www.petefagerlin.com/ML/brakes.htm

 

does the above link use the same rear calipers/rotors as the c32? or does anyone know of a diy guide for replacing the rear c32 rotors? I found one for the rear pads but not the rotors and i plan to replace both soon

 

I can just tell you right here, it's super easy.

-Take cap off brake fluid, to relieve pressure in brake lines
-Take wheel off, spray a little WD-40 or PB blaster or something on the central area of where the rotor touches the hub, this is usually pretty seized on
-pop the two pins on the back of the caliper holding the clip that holds the pads in
-slide the pads out the back of the caliper
-take the two bolts off the back of the caliper holding it to the hub (if I remember correctly they are 17mm or 18mm)
-don't remember what size, but there is one torx set screw holding the rotor onto the hub, loosen it, be careful not to strip it, I usually buy new set screws along with rotors just in case it strips or shears
-Use a hammer to pound the rotor along the outside edge moving in a circular motion and tapping on it until it breaks loose, you want to pound TOWARDS the car, not from the back out as it may seem you want to do, pounding inwards shocks the rotor and breaks it free of the hub
-Once it's broken free take it off, before you put the new rotor on I recommend using some Mobil1 or Valvoline synthetic grease (the purple stuff) to rub around the center ring of the rotor and on the hub where the rotor sits, so next time you have to replace them they aren't as stuck to the hub
-Set the rotor with set screw
-If you have a caliper piston retracting tool use it to push the pistons back in, otherwise you can use the old pads or some small blocks of wood wedged in the caliper and use some sort of pry bar or other tool (you can get creative) to push them back, but be careful that you're putting an even pressure and not lopsided on the piston, definitely use something between your tool and piston so you don't damage the piston
-Bolt caliper back onto hub, slide the new pads in, put the clip back on and hammer the pins back in, put the wheel back on and done!
-Don't forget to put the cap on the brake fluid reservoir back on.
-Start the car, before you drive anywhere, press the pedal all the way to the floor to reset the pistons, then pump it a couple of times to make sure it's back to the normal position it should be in

Sides notes:

-Always use new pads with new rotors, don't put used pads on new rotors
-Make sure to bed in the brake pads on rotors properly, each manufacturer is different but for most of them it's usually around 500 miles of driving with normal to moderate braking, try to avoid heavy braking as much as possible. This allows the thin film to build up on the rotors, if you don't do this they can warp and won't last as long.

 

So basically it's the same as the link. My car doesn't have a rear brake wear sensor though like the ML does, I think most w203 don't.