Oil cooler @ filter housing; Leaking
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From: Indiana
Silver 02 C32 & White 05 CLK500
I am having the same problem with the leak from the oil cooler. After tightening the bolts, did your leak ever come back? Mine has been leaking for a while so i am wondering if i should try to tighten the bolts or just go straight to buying the two gaskets. Nothing but constant problems with my c32. Its very annoying and expensive.
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From: Houston, TX
C32/C55 AMG
I am having the same problem with the leak from the oil cooler. After tightening the bolts, did your leak ever come back? Mine has been leaking for a while so i am wondering if i should try to tighten the bolts or just go straight to buying the two gaskets. Nothing but constant problems with my c32. Its very annoying and expensive.
I had bought the gaskets once I saw the leak, but I noticed that my bolts were extremely loose, so much so that I could loosen them by hand. I'd say tighten it and see if it stops leaking. Now that I remember, my gaskets looked to be in very good shape.
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From: Indiana
Silver 02 C32 & White 05 CLK500
Thanks lounandheard, I will try tightening the bolts first. The first two bolts are easy to get to, but the ones close to the engine are very difficult to reach. I guess I will have to take the belt off so I can get some space to work with. I dont have many tools in my garage, but my friend does and I will try that tomorow or monday to see if it solves my problem. I also got a different problem when I pust the gas pedal in D, the car acts like its going to downshift and raises the rpms and all of a sudden drops them like the torque converter slipped then it jerks and slowly accelerates. I am very mad as I have a 10k old transmission, tcu, torque converter, and radiator and the car still messes up.
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
Tightening the bolts did not fix the leak completely, so I will be replacing the two gaskets (112-184-02-61 + 112-184-03-61). It's very minimal amount of oil leaking out now, but I'm not going to risk destroying my brand new belt, and spending another four hours or so cleaning the pulleys.
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
The oil cooler came off without much issues. That bottom inside bolt is not an easy one to get at though. Ended up using 1" extension, connected to 3" extension, swivel adapter, and torx bit (t30) built into socket. The length must be exactly right or you will not have room to get at the bolt, and still be able to turn the ratchet. After disconnected the top coolant line, and removing it you have room to maneuver your way in there by going under the supercharger clutch. Top line doesn't leak much when you pull it, but the bottom cooler line will leak, and leak if you don't seal it up after pulling the cooler. I was lucky enough to find something that sealed it perfectly after sticking a large marker in there didn't work!
The gaskets are not easy to get out, but if you pry at the open slots with something small enough to fit in there you can eventually work the gaskets off. Upon inspection they appeared to be in perfect condition. However, they were very solid, and dry. Inspection of the cooler itself showed abrasions that somehow formed right where the gaskets sit. They are very small, but noticeable. I'm unsure how the abrasions formed, but I can assume the hardened gaskets caused them. Higher mileage owners might want to consider replacing these gaskets even if the cooler isn't leaking.
I did take photograph, and will post them up once the job is done. Still have to put in the new gaskets, and reinstall the cooler. After seeing the abrasions I feel extra sealant should be placed around the gaskets, but am going to see if the gaskets themselves will seal correctly.
The gaskets are not easy to get out, but if you pry at the open slots with something small enough to fit in there you can eventually work the gaskets off. Upon inspection they appeared to be in perfect condition. However, they were very solid, and dry. Inspection of the cooler itself showed abrasions that somehow formed right where the gaskets sit. They are very small, but noticeable. I'm unsure how the abrasions formed, but I can assume the hardened gaskets caused them. Higher mileage owners might want to consider replacing these gaskets even if the cooler isn't leaking.
I did take photograph, and will post them up once the job is done. Still have to put in the new gaskets, and reinstall the cooler. After seeing the abrasions I feel extra sealant should be placed around the gaskets, but am going to see if the gaskets themselves will seal correctly.
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
I had the gaskets replaced under extended warranty recently (cheap *******s...), but now my car is telling me that it's two quarts low all of a sudden and it has me worried
I'll check for the exact numbers when I get home, but I think it was indeed, like, 3+ hours labor for the job. Even at book hours, it probably is a 2+ hour job as you guys have been saying, with a nice warm shop plus every tool/part you could ever need at your disposal.
I'll check for the exact numbers when I get home, but I think it was indeed, like, 3+ hours labor for the job. Even at book hours, it probably is a 2+ hour job as you guys have been saying, with a nice warm shop plus every tool/part you could ever need at your disposal.
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
No way two quarts of oil leaked through your oil cooler, or you would have a terrible mess in the engine bay, and lots of smoke! Cooler is now back in place, and absolutely no leaking. As a side note I was able to drive my C32 ten feet into the driveway out of the garage to wash it. Felt good to fire up the engine after two weeks of sitting! She's nice, and shinny when I can drive her again. Time to tackle the power steering o-rings. Still waiting for Eurocharged to get back in touch with me. They are either having email issues, or just ignoring me. I've sent three emails now... I'll assume email issues, and I'm going to call them tomorrow. Would really like to fix the door lock actuator too before I start daily driving again. I bought a door puller tool on AutohausAZ that should simplify removal of the door.
Last edited by gt4awd; Mar 3, 2010 at 02:39 AM.
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
No way two quarts of oil leaked through your oil cooler, or you would have a terrible mess in the engine bay, and lots of smoke! Cooler is now back in place, and absolutely no leaking. As a side note I was able to drive my C32 ten feet into the driveway out of the garage to wash it. Felt good to fire up the engine after two weeks of sitting! She's nice, and shinny when I can drive her again. Time to tackle the power steering o-rings. Still waiting for Eurocharged to get back in touch with me. They are either having email issues, or just ignoring me. I've sent three emails now... I'll assume email issues, and I'm going to call them tomorrow. Would really like to fix the door lock actuator too before I start daily driving again. I bought a door puller tool on AutohausAZ that should simplify removal of the door.
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
Still at a loss as removal of the cooler results in minimal loss of oil. If you drain the filter canister by first loosening the cap you're only looking at a few drops of oil lost... Maybe they did something else without your knowledge? Never know with Mercedes. I avoid service there at all costs...
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
Still at a loss as removal of the cooler results in minimal loss of oil. If you drain the filter canister by first loosening the cap you're only looking at a few drops of oil lost... Maybe they did something else without your knowledge? Never know with Mercedes. I avoid service there at all costs...
And yeah, I try to avoid them too, but my extended warranty sucks
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
Yes, we are talking about different coolers. The cooler I'm referring to is connected directly to the oil filter housing. It looks like a large heat sink.
It looks almost golden color in this photograph, and no I don't let my engine get that dirty. That's how it was when purchased!
It looks almost golden color in this photograph, and no I don't let my engine get that dirty. That's how it was when purchased!
Last edited by gt4awd; Mar 3, 2010 at 04:10 AM.
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
Ahhhhh! Thanks for the pic, that clarifies things really well =) Yet another 'something' to check for when I finally get the car into the garage, heh.
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
Here's some photographs. Yes, the supercharger is a great place to hold tools. 
Carefully examine closeup on oil cooler, and you will see why I recommend replacing these gaskets as preventative maintenance at higher mileage.
Carefully examine closeup on oil cooler, and you will see why I recommend replacing these gaskets as preventative maintenance at higher mileage.
Last edited by gt4awd; Mar 12, 2010 at 02:12 AM.
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From: Middle of IL in a corn field
2006 C55 AMG White/Ash
After looking at the oil cooler pic, I think I would have lightly surfaced the cooler. Probably some 400 wet dry on a piece of glass and some oil would do nicely, then finish with 600.
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
After looking at the oil cooler pic, I think I would have lightly surfaced the cooler. Probably some 400 wet dry on a piece of glass and some oil would do nicely, then finish with 600.
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From: Middle of IL in a corn field
2006 C55 AMG White/Ash
I understand, but with the crap that's on there I'm not sure how long it will be till it leaks again. The method I mentioned I used on an aluminum cylinder head from a Kohler single cylinder tractor engine that was slightly warped. I have a piece of 1/2" plexiglass about a foot square to use as a flat surface. When I was done the aluminum was as smooth and scratch free as new, perfectly flat too. No more blown head gasket, still on it today.
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From: Phoenix AZ & Cayucos CA
’27 AMG SL55(ordered), ‘23 EQS 580 SUV, ‘19 AMG E53 Cpe, ‘48 Willys Jeepster
Try using wet-dry sandpaper on a glass plate. It's as flat as you're going to find and rigid enough to not cause differences in the amount removed, which shouldn't be very much anyway.
p.s. You'll gain a few hp and less detonation if you find a way to get your air from in front of the radiator. K&N filters on top of the engine get nothing but hot air from the radiator and engine, the last thing you want.
p.s. You'll gain a few hp and less detonation if you find a way to get your air from in front of the radiator. K&N filters on top of the engine get nothing but hot air from the radiator and engine, the last thing you want.
Last edited by lkfoster; Mar 13, 2010 at 12:38 PM.
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
I understand, but with the crap that's on there I'm not sure how long it will be till it leaks again.
K&N filters on top of the engine get nothing but hot air from the radiator and engine, the last thing you want.
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
'99 E55t AMG
Your pics helped a pile! I've been trying to figure out where I'm leaking oil that would end up in the cylinder valley (viewable only from the passenger side rear of the engine bay), but if I'm leaking at the lower port of the oil cooler, it would explain everything! I'm going to try tightening the bolts 1st, and I'll replace the seals if the leak persists. Thanks again!
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C32 amg
Your pics helped a pile! I've been trying to figure out where I'm leaking oil that would end up in the cylinder valley (viewable only from the passenger side rear of the engine bay), but if I'm leaking at the lower port of the oil cooler, it would explain everything! I'm going to try tightening the bolts 1st, and I'll replace the seals if the leak persists. Thanks again!
