Idler Pulley Seized up
#26
![Question](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
#6#9
Does any of you know part number for those pulleys or the screws that needed to be change???
i want to have it changed on DIY but can't seem to find any DIY besides the SC pulley and #4 in the DIY section....
Don't feel like going to the stealership or go to an indy shop that doesn't know the correct torque on each screw that holds the pulley in place.
Any suggestions?
I have noticed that #9 is vibrating/wobble a lot. is it supposed to do that?
Does any of you know part number for those pulleys or the screws that needed to be change???
i want to have it changed on DIY but can't seem to find any DIY besides the SC pulley and #4 in the DIY section....
Don't feel like going to the stealership or go to an indy shop that doesn't know the correct torque on each screw that holds the pulley in place.
Any suggestions?
I have noticed that #9 is vibrating/wobble a lot. is it supposed to do that?
#4#6#9 all prone to failure.
the psk changes the location of # 4 and reinforces the mount points with a machined bushing and bracket. also the larger pulleys slow down the rotational speed by inc. the size of the pullies by 10mm and adding a longer belt.
i replaced 3 pulleys within 6 months due to bearing failure. peace of mind is well worth the small cost of the psk kit. most folks spend more than the cost of the kit on waxes and kool looking key fobs!
#5 also prone to failure but for other reasons mainly wear
the psk changes the location of # 4 and reinforces the mount points with a machined bushing and bracket. also the larger pulleys slow down the rotational speed by inc. the size of the pullies by 10mm and adding a longer belt.
i replaced 3 pulleys within 6 months due to bearing failure. peace of mind is well worth the small cost of the psk kit. most folks spend more than the cost of the kit on waxes and kool looking key fobs!
#5 also prone to failure but for other reasons mainly wear
Last edited by gtr886; 03-17-2010 at 08:14 AM.
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
The tensioner will bounce back and forth a tiny bit with the engine running. That is normal, but only to a very slight extend should it have movement. By wobble are you saying the pulley itself can be moved side to side?
#28
I don't have a C-32, but I was running a S/C XJ-R a few years back and my C-55 has been much easier to work on than the Jag was so far. Jag's had similar issues with the Rootes type blower, but the idler pulleys were a quick swap and gave plenty of noise before failure. Under drive crank or over sized S/C pulleys made failures way worse. I used to carry good used ones in the trunk. I can't speak on on the C-32 per se, but the pulleys on the Jag were all the same torque so 6 and 9 are likely the same as 4 FWIW. I have gotten away with "tight and locktight" for years. I guess my point is don't be afraid to try to fix it. These are truely spectacular little cars, don't get discouraged.
I don't want to threadjack, but is anyone getting real hard data on power increases for all that trouble? The Jag guys came away saying no real performance increase was made, as the thermal efficency of the blower was the real issue. The overall opinion was that it was more desireable to cool the intake charge (water, NOS, oversized intercooler ect)
Cheers
I don't want to threadjack, but is anyone getting real hard data on power increases for all that trouble? The Jag guys came away saying no real performance increase was made, as the thermal efficency of the blower was the real issue. The overall opinion was that it was more desireable to cool the intake charge (water, NOS, oversized intercooler ect)
Cheers
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
The goal is to increase PSI, and at the same time decrease IAT as much as possible to compensate for the additional heat generated. Yes, we get big gains by adding smaller supercharger pulley, or mainly larger crank pulley on the C32 AMG. 185MM overdrive can boost slightly over 22 PSI with controlled IAT. Stock PSI is 14.5 at most...