mikekuriger

OK, so I found a thread on here that said changing the motor mounts was fairly easy. I can't seem to find it now sadly. Anyway, I changed my tranny mount in ike 5 minutes, but it took me an hour to change the passenger side motor mount. The first snag was the fact that I could not figure out what size wrench to use on the top bolt. (5/8 ") once I figured that out after much trial and error, I finally got the mount out. welcome snag #2. I was unable to get the mount out because the exhaust was in the way towards the rear and various other stuff in the way in every other direction. Finally, I disconnected the mounts that hod the sway bar on and dropped the motor mount out.

This weekend I want to do the other motor mount on the drivers side. Does anyone know how to get that one out? I don't want to try dropping the exhaust unless that's the only way. The AC compressor looks to be in the way to get the mount out the same way I did on the passenger side.

any help would be great!


Mike

Viper98912

What was the reason for you to change the motor mounts?

Quicktwinturbo

They go bad ard 30-40k miles.
I need to replace mine (tranny + motor mount).

Primary symptoms of bad motor / tranny mounts:

Little or strong viberation (steering wheel, seats, etc) when you are in D or S..

Viper98912

I've been wondering if mine need to be replaced. At highway speeds (70 mph), they sometimes come and go, but I don't know if it varies due to road surface. Once you go up to 80+ then try to level off/cruise, it begins to shake again and then levels off. I'm waiting more to buy new tires and look at my CA bushings, then move on to the mounts.

mikekuriger

the symptom of bad motor mounts is vibration at idle, especially when in reverse or drive. you can't tell when driving. I have over 100,000 miles now and the mounts are toast.

mikekuriger

oh another symptom was I could hear the engine clunk when going over speed bumps.

alpha8a

I have 62k miles on my car now and the motor mounts are on their way out. The car shakes a little during idle. How much are you guys paying independent mechanics to have these changed out?

dkflipse

I paid $350 in labor to replace both the engine and tranny mounts.

mikekuriger

The dealer here want's over $450 in labor costs to replace just the drivers side motor mount. Since nobody has chimed in with the procedure, I'm going to do it and post pics and create a howto for all yall!

~Mike~

mikekuriger

I finally got around to replacing my driver's side motor mount. At first, I was going to give up because there is just no room to get the MM out without removing the exhaust. However, I discovered a way to do it and other than that top bolt being really hard to get off it wasn't that hard. I'll post pics and a DIY since I was unable to find this info online.

By the way, after replacing the mounts the speed bump "clunk" is gone (thought my struts were bad) and I can't even tell the engine is running anymore. It used to vibrate the car, especially in reverse. The stock MMs were so bad that the rubber was dried up, no oil, and they basically fell apart when I took them out.

~mike~

Black5

Hi guys,
Sorry to re-open an old thread, but couldn't find the answers I was looking for in a search.
Just had my c55 diagnosed with a leaking LHS Engine Mount, and a RHS mount that is "soft".
The car is under warranty for another 2 months or so, but the dealer only wants to replace the LHS mount as he says that the RHS one is still OK, and that it is normal for it to last longer than the LHS as one side typically takes most of the strain.

Every time I've seen this done, both engine mounts are usually replaced, so this doesn't make sense to me, and I think he's just trying to put if off until the car is out of warranty. I'm insisting that he replaces both, but want to present some good arguments why.

Are any of you aware if there is any evidence to suggest that one side will wear significantly faster than the other and if he is correct?

Better still, is anyone aware of any Mercedes Service bulletins that recommend replacing both at the same time that I can refer to?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Rahulio1975280C

Did you guys buy genuine Mercedes-Benz mounts to do this or did you go aftermarket? Also, where can I find the torque specs for the motor and transmission mounts?

I assume you used a thick flat solid wood board and lifted the engine using a hydraulic floor jack in conjunction with this board.

kent426

I had mine done at the dealer for $750 all in for both mounts and tranny. Hope someone eventually steps up and makes polyurethane mounts.

ghiaguy

bump - any info on diy for the drivers side. I want to replace the only one thats bad. thx

rlddlr53

Just had mine done. $200 for labor and Mounts for $60 each for Lemfoerder

ghiaguy

damn for $200 I guess so- my quote was $600 (with mounts +tranny mount incl) where did you find a shop to do $200?

rlddlr53

In sherman oaks, 91423

DAzzi

Just finished replacing both motor mounts and tranny mount. They were all TOAST! All I can say is WOW, what a difference. Feels like a brand new car!

Was able to change all 3 mounts in under 4 hours with basic tools and jack stands.

Only tough part was loosening the top motor mount bolts, had to buy a special "S" shaped wrench so I could get enough leverage on it to crack them loose.

MB Dealer wanted 5.5 hrs @ $140/hr plus tax.

ghiaguy

It does make a hell of a difference huh? Now wash your hands and have a beer!

Dknowz

I'd love to do both mounts on my c55 as I'm at 112k. Did you find a good thread for the DIY DAzzi?

greekspec2

disconnect the power steering line for the drivers side then you can snake it through if you lift the engine up enough

DAzzi

For the passenger mount what I did was drop the sway bar out of the way (still connected to the end-links), remove both bolt holding the mount, then jack up that side to free the mount, pull the mount out of the way, once mount was out of the way I used a 2x4 block and lowered the motor and rested it it on the cross member with another 2x4 so i could get the mount out from the front. For the drivers side, i removed that section of exhaust. With the exhaust out of the way the mount comes out easily from the rear of the motor. The tranny mount was a piece of cake. Jack up the tranny near the mount, be sure to use a wide piece of 2x4 so you dont dent the tranny pan.

Dan

Dknowz

Thank you sir! Sounds pretty straight forward.