Biscuit

All,

I know there's plenty of instructions out there on this but I wanted to add in my two cents. So I followed the install instructions for the code3 pulley for removing the pulley for the most part.

When it gets to the point where they suggest to remove the top idler pulley I skipped that. From what I can tell the only reason that was done was so that you could use the pulley mount as a fulcrum. I didn't want to do so I could avoid re-torquing the idler pulley...plus it seemed unnecessary.

Instead just use a belt wrench / strap wrench. Something like this:


You can pick them up really cheap just about anywhere. Just wrap the strap around the black part which they pry against in the code3 install instructions. Faster than the other way, less parts removal, and you don't apply all that pressure to a small point on the s/c clutch piece thing. Much better.

As for replacing the bearing itself? No need for a shop press. Just use a normal bench vice with some wood blocks in the right location (outer edge of the bearing). Works great!

Maybe somebody will find it useful. I love how much quieter my engine is now I can tell you that.

-Rich

TemjinX2

yeah i used the strap wrench as well. Saves a lot of time.

Biscuit

Yes it does. It's one of those tools that you'll use about once a year but when you do use it you'll be so thankful you have it.

loudandheard

I used that one too, but it was still a pain in the butt. I use it for the removal of my oil filter too.

02C32guy

Yeah, strap wrench is definitely the way to go. I have to change mine again (third time). With the PSK it's even easier now.