Dyno today finally, a little disappointed.
#101
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From: GA
2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
You have no idea how much if I'd love to remove this pressure regulator and secondary fuel pump setup. I hate it. Kleemann told me it could never be tuned perfectly for larger injectors and it would lean up at some point during the RPM range. I called them when I was dealing with my hose and leak problems and said I wanted injectors and I didn't care how much it cost and that's what they told me.
I thought dyno tests were supposed to be done in whatever gear is 1:1?
I thought dyno tests were supposed to be done in whatever gear is 1:1?
#102
My car runs 10.5-11.0 up top dep on weather conditions.
To keep it safe I would stay below 11.5-11.6. I would be happy to give up 30 HP to keep my motor together, since these things cost sooo much to modify.
If you really want it to run the best...... drive to Co Springs and visit the klee shop. I have my car shipped there and then flew out after it was done, got to meet the guys there, and took my brother and my newely tuned car on a long pikes peak trip...... time of our lives.
Then had car shipped back to me. You could drive it back and forth if you have some vacation, but I was busy with work.
Unfortunately there aren't too many people around who can make the kleemann fuel/system work properly short of the klee people.
IF I eventually go to the bigger weistec blower, I'll be pulling all the klee fuel system off and going the bigger injector route and Weistec tune....... probably just ship the car to WT to have it done..... but that depends on if I stay interested in this car or just move on to something else..... 996TT or used BS.
Be patient, you can do some tuning yourself with the Klee manual, AFR, fuel gage, boost gage, etc...... just be patient and be very careful what shop y ou have work on this..... many claim they know... most will just take your money.
GL>
To keep it safe I would stay below 11.5-11.6. I would be happy to give up 30 HP to keep my motor together, since these things cost sooo much to modify.
If you really want it to run the best...... drive to Co Springs and visit the klee shop. I have my car shipped there and then flew out after it was done, got to meet the guys there, and took my brother and my newely tuned car on a long pikes peak trip...... time of our lives.
Then had car shipped back to me. You could drive it back and forth if you have some vacation, but I was busy with work.
Unfortunately there aren't too many people around who can make the kleemann fuel/system work properly short of the klee people.
IF I eventually go to the bigger weistec blower, I'll be pulling all the klee fuel system off and going the bigger injector route and Weistec tune....... probably just ship the car to WT to have it done..... but that depends on if I stay interested in this car or just move on to something else..... 996TT or used BS.
Be patient, you can do some tuning yourself with the Klee manual, AFR, fuel gage, boost gage, etc...... just be patient and be very careful what shop y ou have work on this..... many claim they know... most will just take your money.
GL>
#103
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From: GA
2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
With my new knowledge, I'd say it's perfectly save going by the dyno graphs with leaning out the fuel pressure regulator a little. It was still around 12:1 between 4k and 5k before and after adjusting it and it's right at 11:1 after between 5k and 6k vs. 10:1 and lower.
I still want to install my AFR gauge permanently so I can keep an eye on it. I've got one more idea to get that damn plug out of my extra bung, but I don't have high hopes.
I still want to install my AFR gauge permanently so I can keep an eye on it. I've got one more idea to get that damn plug out of my extra bung, but I don't have high hopes.
Last edited by 91RS; 11-11-2012 at 07:59 PM.
#104
Gauge location
I have too, but you get a more accurate reading with the sensor before the cats. I had the extra bung installed because I wanted to install my A/F gauge permanently. It'll fit perfect where with the ash tray insert removed and I could still close the door and not see it when I don't want to. Now for my to do that I'll probably end up buying another left down pipe from Kleemann and have it welded in with two new bungs. I paid all that money for the exhaust, I wouldn't want it screwed up looking with 3 bungs in one spot. I would like to get the A/F ratio closer to 12.2:1 if that is possible. .
#105
With my new knowledge, I'd say it's perfectly save going by the dyno graphs with leaning out the fuel pressure regulator a little. It was still around 12:1 between 4k and 5k before and after adjusting it and it's right at 11:1 after between 5k and 6k vs. 10:1 and lower.
I still want to install my AFR gauge permanently so I can keep an eye on it. I've got one more idea to get that damn plug out of my extra bung, but I don't have high hopes.
I still want to install my AFR gauge permanently so I can keep an eye on it. I've got one more idea to get that damn plug out of my extra bung, but I don't have high hopes.
Are you increasing fuel pressure (clockwise on the FPG) or decreasing fuel pressure (counter clockwise on the FPG) to lean out (increase) your AFR?
#106
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From: GA
2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
I decreased it with about one turn counter clockwise. It doesn't actually affect the fuel pressure until higher RPM anyway. The AFR graphs look the same until about 5k RPM, then you can see the change it made.
Last edited by 91RS; 11-14-2012 at 06:52 AM.
#107
Oh right. Your AFRs were more on the rich side which is why you decreased the fuel pressure (counter clockwise) to lean it out.
I'm at a steady 12.5 to 12.3 (at redline) AFR on my WOT runs through out the rev range. According to Cory@Kleemann this is the range he'd like to see for AFR.
What many people on this thread are saying however is that it should be around high 11's to low 12's, correct?
I'm at a steady 12.5 to 12.3 (at redline) AFR on my WOT runs through out the rev range. According to Cory@Kleemann this is the range he'd like to see for AFR.
What many people on this thread are saying however is that it should be around high 11's to low 12's, correct?
#108
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From: GA
2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
Well the G55 engine looks to have 10.5:1 compression ratio compared to the C55's 11.0:1. I'm not sure how much of a difference that makes, but you might want to richer it up just a bit.
Last edited by 91RS; 11-14-2012 at 12:40 PM.
#109
91rs - good point!
I'm 10.5-11.2..... and leaving it as is. I've got the higher c/r in the clk55.
Staying conservative on timing and fuel and I've yet to blow up a f/i motor in my years of tinkering......... get a little greedy and get ready to pay the price.
I'm 10.5-11.2..... and leaving it as is. I've got the higher c/r in the clk55.
Staying conservative on timing and fuel and I've yet to blow up a f/i motor in my years of tinkering......... get a little greedy and get ready to pay the price.
#110
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From: GA
2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
Just curious, do you know what your timing gets down to on WOT?
#111
So I Added fuel about half a turn and now I'm getting 11.7 - 11.4 @ WOT and 5psi boost.
And yes the lower compression on my motor (10.5:1) allows for a slightly higher AFR as confirmed by Kleemann. I'll probably lean it just a tad bit a quarter turn to up the AFR to around 11.9 - 11.6 @ WOT.
I know I'll have to do this whole exercise all over again when the new pulley arrives, but this is what the fun is all about anyway, right?
And yes the lower compression on my motor (10.5:1) allows for a slightly higher AFR as confirmed by Kleemann. I'll probably lean it just a tad bit a quarter turn to up the AFR to around 11.9 - 11.6 @ WOT.
I know I'll have to do this whole exercise all over again when the new pulley arrives, but this is what the fun is all about anyway, right?
#112
So I Added fuel about half a turn and now I'm getting 11.7 - 11.4 @ WOT and 5psi boost.
And yes the lower compression on my motor (10.5:1) allows for a slightly higher AFR as confirmed by Kleemann. I'll probably lean it just a tad bit a quarter turn to up the AFR to around 11.9 - 11.6 @ WOT.
I know I'll have to do this whole exercise all over again when the new pulley arrives, but this is what the fun is all about anyway, right?
And yes the lower compression on my motor (10.5:1) allows for a slightly higher AFR as confirmed by Kleemann. I'll probably lean it just a tad bit a quarter turn to up the AFR to around 11.9 - 11.6 @ WOT.
I know I'll have to do this whole exercise all over again when the new pulley arrives, but this is what the fun is all about anyway, right?
#114
I think you're right. After driving home with this setting today, the butt dyno couldn't tell the difference. The AFRs were definitely lower throughout the rev range than before I made the adjustment so I think I should be able to sleep better tonight.