91RS

If the pedal is indeed the problem, it definately isn't acting up at idle or WOT. I believe once the code sets a current, it commands the car to stay at the ~1100RPM and my car also sets the fuel safety shutoff code. If I remember correctly, when I cleared the codes last night, I believe I was able to rev it before it set again.

betrezra

My prob is different (I think).
My problem - 2 times now when I start the car, you depress the gas pedal and you get very very low response.... car will accel up to 40mph.... very slowly with very slow response..... you can floor it and not get up in revs. It's like the calibration get's off. Shut car off... restart up and it's fine like nothing happened.

I just crawled under footwell and pulled the shroud covering the gas pedal...... easy 3 screws...... I wiggle tested the connector to the gas pedal sensor. If it needs replacement... it looks easy enough to change out. 1 bolt, 1 connector.

GL.

91RS

Is your code the P202E-008 or is it another variant?

betrezra

STAR Says: P0120 Code - M16/6r1 - (Throttle valve actual value potentiometer) Stored.

I also want to confirm with you guys the TPS is actual integrated into the Throttle Body on our cars right?

The earlier cars had a seperate TPS but not my 04clk55.



I'm following this path of this thread.... by replacing my TB -
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...sues-help.html

91RS

We might have different problems then. Mine says: P202E-008: M16/6 (Throttle Valve Actuator) : deflection of throttle valve (P0120). I just cleared the code and ran the car and the throttle came up on it's own to about 900 RPM twice and then the third time I guess the code set and once the code sets it automatically raises the idle to 1200RPM as long as the code is set current. As soon as it does it, if I clear the codes and restart the car it works properly again for a while. So my problem only happens for a few seconds, so that will make it even more difficult to diagnose. I am confident my problem has nothing to do with the accelerator pedal though. I was watching the actual values and the readings for the pedal did not change at all during any of this. So I believe my problem lies with the throttle body, ECM (unlikely), or some sort of wiring/connector issue. I think I'm going to check the connectors on the ECM and maybe put some diaelectric grease in there, too. I think I'll also give Kleemann and maybe Eurocharged a call tomorrow and see if they've seen this before.

Viper98912

CTS-V or G8 comment; sorry, the G8 just doesn't cut it against a C55, and supercharged at that. The CTS-V is a nice car indeed, but I wouldn't give up on the C55 just yet man.

91RS

I'm talking about if I would have bought one of those to begin with. I can assure you, I would have been just as happy. The money I've invested into this car, would have made for one helluva LS engine with no BS. One of my customers at work has $12k (and that included building and installing it) invested in a stroker in his Vette that puts down 525hp to the wheels. This car is going to have to earn my trust again at this point. If I were to take a trip right now (or in the near future), it'd be in the Trailblazer all day (which has an LS2 BTW). I do love this car and it would be different if I wasn't having problems that completely criple the car.

betrezra

Werd 91RS. I hear you man.
Put some time into this, hopefully a sub$400 fix and back in the game.

I too get those LSXXX thoughts.... that new CTSV Wagon 6spd is the bomb all IMHO

Viper98912

Agree, if you were looking for a car to easily upgrade the hp on. C55 offers more in other areas.

91RS

I talked to Cory at Kleemann today, and he said this is actually a fairly common problem with this engine. He said the problem is the female terminals in the connector for the throttle body. He said there is like a bushing in the terminal and when the connector is disconnected a few times they stretch and start arking and make the male terminals on the TB dirty. I've ordered new terminals from my local dealer and I should have them tomorrow.

cm60k

Good info. its helpFUL indeed,,

Thankss for sharing........

ZAYED,,

betrezra

I don't doubt Cory one bit.... but that has to be the most bizzare elec problem I've ever heard of in my 25 years of driving/working on cars.... LOL.

Keep us posted on if this is the fix.... I'll order a female connector as well.

I know for a fact I can connect/disconnect a cheapo fomoco 5.0 mustang TB connector a thousand times with no ill effects..... Jeez.

91RS

I do agree it's strange that only disconnecting it a few times will make them loose, but I don't doubt loose terminals causing issues. I've had quite a few cars with various problems caused by terminal fretting and loose terminals. I've had two Corvettes recently towed in no starts with no power on the fuel pump power circuit caused by loose terminals (one in the fuse block and one in an inline connector) that created heat and burned up. Did also have one truck with fretting causing throttle body codes and I ended up putting diaelectric grease in every connector between the pedal and throttle body to fix that truck.

betrezra

Cory knows his AMG's!

I hope this is the ticket.

When I press the accelerator I like to GO FAST!

Viper98912

interesting. let us know how it works out

91RS

I think I've got this fixed. I put the new terminals in and let the car sit and idle for an hour with no issues and then drove it 10 miles with no issues. No codes reset. Hopefully all the readiness tests will run on the way to work tomorrow so I can get an emission test (what better time for that to come due). The part number I ordered was: 000 540 26 05. It came with the female terminals crimped on both sides so I ended up with 3 extras but Cory said the ones he gets have the male on one side and the female on the other. I just cut them and soldered them in. The connector is fairly easy to take apart, but if you haven't messed with connectors before it might not be. Let me know if you need help with that. Hopefully there is more room on your CLK, getting out the elbow on the throttle body is a bear on the C55.

cm60k

Glad to solved it,, good work on wiring,,

what’s the part # of that connector....??, is it this you mentioned "000 540 26 05".....??

ZAYED,,

betrezra

I'll probably try this BEFORE the TB swap.

Are you putting new metal female terminal sockets into the OLD female plastic connector that you have to re-use?

I wonder if you can buy the entire new female plastic connector with new female metal connectors pre-installed, and then just solder heat shrink in?


Thanks for sharing your fix.

91RS

Yes, I replaced only the terminals and reused the plastic body. That part number I posted is a piece of wire with the terminal and weatherpak seal crimped onto either end. Just cut the length of wire needed and remove the old terminal and install the new and then solder the connection. I think Cory said they don't offer them as a connector with pigtails but I didn't ask my dealer when I called. Now I'm sure they'll sell the few pieces of the connector and you could build a new one easily. There is enough wire to pull the connector out from behind the engine so you don't have to make the repair in that small space, there's two metal clips holding the wire harness and it just pops out of those. I ended up having to put some bigger condiut over my repair so I bent the second one out a little, seemed ok.

betrezra

To add to your fix...... you could install another 4 wire weather tite connector after the TB factory connector. Then if you ever take this apart again use the NEW generic weather connector.... and NEVER disconnect the factory TB connector. IF this all makes sense

91RS

Yeah, I get what you're saying. It'll probably never get touched again though. There are 6 terminals by the way. Car drove fine to and from work today, so we're looking good.

betrezra

Awesome 91RS - good news buddy.

Man what are the chances of both our Klee cars having the same trouble at the same time.... and both of us needing our insp stickers at the same time.... crazy.

Jeff

91RS

Haha, maybe we should play the lottery! Now I just gotta get my headers and the rest of my power! I think I might go to the drag strip again Friday and do some runs in dyno mode where I can do a real burnout.

On a side note, what power numbers did your car put down?

betrezra

At Klee in Co..... 472HP/481Tq RW.... dyno numbers.....

91RS

You've got the Kleemann headers on your car, right? Cams? I've seen people on here putting down numbers close to mine with just the headers, so I expect to see numbers in the area of yours. I'm at 365 horsepower and 399 torque on a Dynojet right now. I don't think I want to bother with cams. I was looking at MBH headers originally but, as nice as they are, I just can't bring myself to spend $3k on them. Brandon at Kleemann said with the car being FI, the power wouldn't be much different.