DIY Notes - Serpentine Belt, Idler Pulley and Belt Tensioner Replacement
I recently replaced the serpentine belt, idler pulley, and belt tensioner on my car for preventive maintenance. My C55 has only 52,900 miles but I want to ensure high reliability and avoid breakdowns. I used only OEM parts purchased from a mix of vendors, Amazon, AutohausAZ, and MBParts World.
I started by removing the idler pulley cover using a small pick. If you are particular about under hood appearances you may want to add a replacement ($3.20) to your bill of materials. Mine was faded so I replaced it.
Once the cover is off, you will have access to the idler pulley bolt which takes a T50 Torx bit. I removed the pulley and installed a new one ($18), tightening the bolt to 15 ft-lbs.
Next, using a 17mm socket on a breaker bar, I turned the bolt head on the belt tensioner counterclockwise until I could install a nail in the designed recess to hold it in that position. Please see your replacement tensioner to understand this requirement. In my case, I did this from underneath the car (after jacking it up). I now removed the belt. The belt tensioner on my car was secured with two bolts which took a T45 Torx bit. I installed the new tensioner ($98) and tightened the bolts to 18 lbs-ft.
Finally, I installed the new belt ($21) and the learning moment for me on this was that you should run it around all the pulleys except the water pump pulley. The lack of a lip on the water pump pulley lets you slide the new tight belt on under tension. Once the belt is properly in place, go back and remove the pin/drift from the new tensioner by releasing tension first (with 17mm bolt head on the tensioner turned CCW)
Working near the fan shroud can tear up your forearms a bit so try to wear long sleeves or protectors. The whole job took about an hour and a quarter. I wasn't racing against the clock.
-Luccia
-Luccia



