DIY Notes - Motor Mount Replacement
I raised the car and put it on Esko 3-ton jack stands. These mated well with the stock jacking points thanks to their rubber pads. I placed the front wheels under the car for additional safety and also used chocks.
For the driver's side mount, I removed the front sway bushing brackets (E12 socket). For the passenger side motor mount, I removed the down-pipe and mid-pipe section of the passenger side exhaust (driver's side on a US or LHD car). I had purchased the Koch tool for the top motor mount bolts and it really worked very well.
It would have been very difficult without this or similar. To use your socket driver on this tool and get the right reach, you will need a couple of 12" 3/8 drive extensions or similar.
The passenger side mount was shot (53,000 miles) and spilled fluid all over the crossmember and the garage floor as I removed it. If I had been thinking about this, I would have tried to keep it upright while removing it. As others have noted, the new mounts were quite a bit taller than the old ones. This means lifting the motor a little higher to get the new mount in.
When it was all buttoned up again and running, my car was noticeably smoother in the cabin and there was less tingle in the steering wheel.


