speed43

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speed43

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idlebumski

So after disappointing dyno, put cheaper 91 instead of the 98 gas was told to by tuner. At idle car smells and sounds different, and driving is LIT, with spark that feels big and on point almost too much so, so afraid I might be damaging it.

Deleted all cats, new cold AutoLite Extreme Performance plugs and MAF, speed43 larger airbox/elbow, K&N filters that have been dishwashed over and over, ECM tune, engine bay rubbers and front engine cover removed for cooling, lower then recommended octane.

Questions before dyno again;
1. Is possible for 98 tune to be much better on lower octane and cold plugs?
2. Am I damaging the motor, and if so, when hot or cold, hot weather or cold weather, low revs or high revs, etc?
3. Even if on margin of damage, dyno again?

Thx for any feedback.

benzslo

You won't damage motor. If tune is too aggressive for the fuel, knock sensors will pick that up and timing will get retarded until knock is gone.
Are you saying you have k&n filters in with no oil at all? I'm not a fan of them because the oil will damage the mass airflow sensor.. but these filters are designed to have oil, that is what catches the dirt is the oil. If you run them completely dry they won't be catching anything and that will do damage.

Your engine has no need for a 98 octane on any tune. Your compression ratio doesn't warrant it and higher octane burns slower, less volatile, you actually make less power running a higher octane than what is required, all else being equal.

cm60k

That's the FACT,,

WELL SAID..

-;ZAYED;-

amgen

My C55 requires 98 octane RON, it says so on the petrol lid.
Ran 100 and 102 RON i Germany the other weeks at Autobahn and it went better, maybe it adjusted itself along the days.
Went at most at 260 km/h (GPS), with potential at 300. Never felt the need to go with WOT.
Amazing car!

idlebumski

Thx for responses guys. Yea, these cars, when in tune, are awesome fun, best i have had, even beating a 930 turbo i once owned.

So I will dyno again, confirm whether the 91 gas is actually better match then 95/98.

And the K&N's are made of wire mesh, with some kind of fabric filter, and i dishwasher them real often because there is always crap stuck in them, greasy and/or slightly crusty boogers, if you will. Anything to avoid oiling them and ruin my MAF, coating everything beyond inside with greasy pink sticky goo (is still on my bathtub when tried to wash them).

Accidental L8 apex

No oil on a K&N type filter is slowly sanding the cylinder walls away. Some oil is absolutely necessary in order to "grab" particles measured in microns. Freshly dishwashed filters are doing you no favors.

idlebumski

alright, thanks for the heads up. back to factory paper ones i guess

Accidental L8 apex

. Not trying to bust ***** as I was in the same boat at one time. Swore by K&Ns, until I got tired of balancing too much or not enough oil. Now I just replace the OEMs twice as much as probably needed to be safe.

speed43

If they make it for your car buy aFe low profile filters. Expensive but worth it, they last a long time and are really well made. These don't require oil.

idlebumski

So dyno again, down another 10Kw.

Cat delete, K&N, tune = 220Kw.
New MAF/plugs and speed43 air box, on high octane = 210Kw.
On low octane today = 200Kw.

After 210Kw result I was depressed tried lower octane, sounded and smelled different at idle, part throttle on cold start sounded much angrier and LIT with instant torque and response, so gentle not to damage motor.

But dyno says otherwise.

Stumped and something must be wrong; any ideas?

daynger

Did they check for knock and afr on 91?
Really shouldnt be using less than 95, and 98 where you can.

idlebumski

Screw it; Winter here in NZ and mechanic friend not concerned, so will run 91 octane until can figure out what is wrong. While dyno numbers are sad, payoff is much more tractable lugging around town in high gear at lower revs, for some reason. As to speed43's product; he did everything promised, and prices are very reasonable currently. It would still be nice to get before/after dyno comparo, where unlike mine, all other things are equal.

Hooblah

I don't know who told you to run less octane, but they're wrong. More octane = more timing = more power (generally).
Personally, I'd just go with whatever the manufacturer recommends. You won't know what difference the octane rating makes without dynoing it. Also, did you change your plugs for colder ones? Probably not a good idea. Again, go with what the manufacturer recommends.

Have all your dyno runs been on the same dyno? It's no good going to different dynos as they won't be calibrated the same.
It's worth pulling a few runs with a factory airbox and then the modified one on the same dyno and same day. If you don't have a factory airbox then buy or borrow one, that's the only way you're going to know what difference it makes.

idlebumski

Really is the weirdest thing; I switched back to 91 RON in frustration after 98 did not yield good dyno numbers, and as mentioned above, it immediately changed character of car.

MUCH BETTER torque between 1200-2500rpm provides acceleration from around 45-60km/hr in top gear without changing down, being 90% of daily usage, and sounds like a 997 Porsche with tight, busy 'right there' exhaust note, smells very rich.

Is it possible to move power off top end, to down low?

If so, fluked it with speed43 box, very enjoyable to drive.

Hooblah

Change your plugs and see what happens.

speed43

Maybe with a tune you can change power from top to low, maybe. Have you removed the silver screen from the maf housing? This will add better throttle response and air flow so more power. But, do this once you have fixed your current situation.

When a dyno is done right you should see my air box make power. This is one reason I don't make a big deal to have a dyno done on my air box. Everthing has to be the same when switching from one box to the other.

Best way to test my box is to let your butt dyno and your knowledge of how you car runs before installing my modded air box. All of us know how are car handles and how it pulls. So going from a stock box to modded box won't leave you guessing if there's a difference in performance.

Hooblah

He has no idea what he's doing, and by the sounds of it, neither does his 'tuner'.

idlebumski

Tune/mods with low octane, has increased compression ratio or flow and temp of exhaust or something.

Totally different sound in and out and hot smell at idle, loves to lug in 4th and 5th, backfires sometimes off higher revs, and more engine braking.

Most logical thing to do now, as was suggested, tune again, and/or restore mods to factory, however butt dyno really likes the hotrod way it drives.

Ultimately, this is speed43’s thread about airbox/elbow, glad to have purchased.

eurochargedw210

Is anyone going to get some legit dyno numbers for this airbox?

speed43

I doubt anyone will. Everyone is going with how they feel the box preforms and so far all positive results. But if anyone is able to do a true test I will sell the box at a discount of the price for a dyno. As long as it's not a crazy price.

Fantomas

I distracted my self with yet another project/money pit (C5 Corvette) and have been neglecting my C55, it's been sitting in the garage while the airbox has been sitting in my office waiting to be shipped. I will be sending off my airbox to speed43 and taking the car drag racing to see how it performs, time to beat is 12.92 @109 mph.

I have a dyno place next door to my work so I really have no excuse, I'll dyno it before hand as well. I'll try to get the before dyno this week.

tusabes

update ?

Fantomas

Never ordered the airbox, between speed43 moving last year and me losing interest because my E55 fuel pumps decided to go out (over $1000 in parts, just out of warranty).