2003 AMG with 100k MINt Condition
08-14-2017, 07:59 PM
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audi rs6
2003 AMG with 100k MINt Condition
Hi guys,
In the process of buying 2003 c 32 AMG . Anything i should worry about? from a 2nd owner. he has all the paper work.
what should i look for ? newbie here.
Thanks
In the process of buying 2003 c 32 AMG . Anything i should worry about? from a 2nd owner. he has all the paper work.
what should i look for ? newbie here.
Thanks
08-15-2017, 09:23 AM
#2
Super Member
It's a great car for my daily driver, but not without it's share of maintenance issues. You are about due for a number of items on this list, which may cost a bundle, unless you can do them yourself (plenty of help here) and will make the car reliable for the long run.
Here's a buying guide I put together:
Buyers Guide:
1. Check if the radiator is a Valeo brand. If so, you may want to have the tranny fluid checked for glycol contamination since these radiators were found to have a defect that could cause this. If build date is after 9-2003, or if it's been replaced with Behr, it's good. The old radiators used small metal tabs that were bent over to hold the end caps on. The tabs are less than 1/4" wide and can be seen at the top corners of the radiator. If the tranny fluid is contaminated with glycol, the car may shift harshly or make jerking movements around 1500 rpm while you are moving slowly.
2. Check intercooler pump is working. You can hear it buzzing for about 10 seconds right after you shut the engine off if you are in a quiet garage or get out of the car and put an ear under the right front bumper. If the IC pump is not working right, the supercharger will overheat, shutdown, and the car will feel like it has no power. Run it hard a few times on the freeway to make sure the supercharger is working while it is hot.
3. Listen to the supercharger pulley for any squeaking or grinding noise. Bad bearing is likely. Supercharger air charge cooler is know to leak coolant into the intake, and replacement is $1000 (DIY) and pulling the supercharger. Look for low coolant in the tank, or slowly dropping, with no leaks evident.
4. Listen for squeaky bushings in the front or rear suspension while going over speed bumps. Not a big problem, but common and annoying.
5. Check for fluid leaks. Valve covers, power steering pump, rear main seal, tranny electrical connector, and differential leaks.
6. Check to make sure all doors lock.
7. Check seat heaters work.
8. Engine: The camshaft adjuster solenoid (which is related to the variable valve timing) tends to fail. The crankshaft position sensors tend to fail. Motor mounts and the trans mount need to be changed every 80K miles. Any loose or noisy belt pulleys or adjusters need to be changed.
9. Suspension & Steering: Irregular and premature tire wear can be caused by the front thrust link bushings cracking and causing excessive movement in the suspension. The thrust link bushings are fluid-filled (to help reduce vibration), so if they crack, they will leak oil.
10. Drive Train: A vibration felt through the center floor of the vehicle can be caused by driveshaft flex discs, which crack and shred, causing excessive driveshaft movement. Not repairing these can cause damage to the driveshaft center support bearing, or, in the worst-case scenario, damage to the transmission or differential. Check the half shafts for bad rubber boots.
High mileage or older vehicles develop leaks at the differential seals and cover; the whole unit needs to be resealed to repair the leaks.
11. Electrical & Lights: Brake light switch failure can cause the ESP and BAS warnings to illuminate.
The early versions of the central gateway module (which allows different systems to communicate with each other) have software problems.
Lack of audio or cell phone functionality may be related to the failure of the audio gateway module. The stock phone is not digital, and no longer works in most cars.
Fluids can damage the weight sensor in the front passenger seat, causing the SRS (airbag) light to illuminate. The electrical switch in the seat cushion susceptible to fluid damage, so dry up any spills immediately.
Many software updates are available for the different computer systems, but if the vehicle is out of warranty, it may cost money to receive the updates. Some updates may be dealer-only, but a well-equipped independent shop can usually provide updates as well.
12. Heating & Air Conditioning: A failed digital heater control valve can cause a lack of heat output from the climate control system. Heater control valve may cause hot and cold from center vents. This can be repaired with upgraded levers for the vent controls, but requires pulling apart the dash.
13. If possible, get a scan with a Star Diagnostic System (SDS) to uncover any unknown issues. There will be records for any failures.
14. Check for records of trans fluid changed every 60K miles, fuel filter, air filters, cabin filters, differential fluid, and supercharger fluid are also maintenance items.
Here's a buying guide I put together:
Buyers Guide:
1. Check if the radiator is a Valeo brand. If so, you may want to have the tranny fluid checked for glycol contamination since these radiators were found to have a defect that could cause this. If build date is after 9-2003, or if it's been replaced with Behr, it's good. The old radiators used small metal tabs that were bent over to hold the end caps on. The tabs are less than 1/4" wide and can be seen at the top corners of the radiator. If the tranny fluid is contaminated with glycol, the car may shift harshly or make jerking movements around 1500 rpm while you are moving slowly.
2. Check intercooler pump is working. You can hear it buzzing for about 10 seconds right after you shut the engine off if you are in a quiet garage or get out of the car and put an ear under the right front bumper. If the IC pump is not working right, the supercharger will overheat, shutdown, and the car will feel like it has no power. Run it hard a few times on the freeway to make sure the supercharger is working while it is hot.
3. Listen to the supercharger pulley for any squeaking or grinding noise. Bad bearing is likely. Supercharger air charge cooler is know to leak coolant into the intake, and replacement is $1000 (DIY) and pulling the supercharger. Look for low coolant in the tank, or slowly dropping, with no leaks evident.
4. Listen for squeaky bushings in the front or rear suspension while going over speed bumps. Not a big problem, but common and annoying.
5. Check for fluid leaks. Valve covers, power steering pump, rear main seal, tranny electrical connector, and differential leaks.
6. Check to make sure all doors lock.
7. Check seat heaters work.
8. Engine: The camshaft adjuster solenoid (which is related to the variable valve timing) tends to fail. The crankshaft position sensors tend to fail. Motor mounts and the trans mount need to be changed every 80K miles. Any loose or noisy belt pulleys or adjusters need to be changed.
9. Suspension & Steering: Irregular and premature tire wear can be caused by the front thrust link bushings cracking and causing excessive movement in the suspension. The thrust link bushings are fluid-filled (to help reduce vibration), so if they crack, they will leak oil.
10. Drive Train: A vibration felt through the center floor of the vehicle can be caused by driveshaft flex discs, which crack and shred, causing excessive driveshaft movement. Not repairing these can cause damage to the driveshaft center support bearing, or, in the worst-case scenario, damage to the transmission or differential. Check the half shafts for bad rubber boots.
High mileage or older vehicles develop leaks at the differential seals and cover; the whole unit needs to be resealed to repair the leaks.
11. Electrical & Lights: Brake light switch failure can cause the ESP and BAS warnings to illuminate.
The early versions of the central gateway module (which allows different systems to communicate with each other) have software problems.
Lack of audio or cell phone functionality may be related to the failure of the audio gateway module. The stock phone is not digital, and no longer works in most cars.
Fluids can damage the weight sensor in the front passenger seat, causing the SRS (airbag) light to illuminate. The electrical switch in the seat cushion susceptible to fluid damage, so dry up any spills immediately.
Many software updates are available for the different computer systems, but if the vehicle is out of warranty, it may cost money to receive the updates. Some updates may be dealer-only, but a well-equipped independent shop can usually provide updates as well.
12. Heating & Air Conditioning: A failed digital heater control valve can cause a lack of heat output from the climate control system. Heater control valve may cause hot and cold from center vents. This can be repaired with upgraded levers for the vent controls, but requires pulling apart the dash.
13. If possible, get a scan with a Star Diagnostic System (SDS) to uncover any unknown issues. There will be records for any failures.
14. Check for records of trans fluid changed every 60K miles, fuel filter, air filters, cabin filters, differential fluid, and supercharger fluid are also maintenance items.
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Spooky55 (08-19-2024)
08-17-2017, 04:04 PM
#3
I had a 2004 which I sold (regrettably) with 130k miles. It had just over 30k when I bought it. I was the 3rd owner but had the car for 10 years. Here is what I dealt with over that time:
1. AC/heat issues. Make sure there are no popping sounds from the dash when the car first starts. They usually last about 30 seconds and then stop. Check each AC vent for cold/hot air. They should all feel uniform. If not something is broken like the control arms or motors. It's usually NOT the motor, but nonetheless either requires removing the entire dash.
2. I had (2) head gasket leaks over the years. Nothing specific to the C32 as this will occur with nearly any car. Check to see if they have been replace or for signs of leaking.
3. Pulley failure. These should be changed around 100k. If not one will eventually seize. When that happens, it will throw the serpentine belt. In my case, it shaved some of the aluminum bracket it was attached to. That bracket was also part of the water pump which meant new pulleys, new water pump, and T-stat. Again, not C32 specific but important to know if they have been changed.
4. Rear main seal. Shortly after my car was out of warranty ~55k miles, the dealer said my rear main seal was leaking. Quoted me like $3000 to fix. Had my private AMG certified mechanic look at it. He said only moisture spot, not worth doing and to keep an eye on it. It only got marginally worse over the next ~80k miles. Important to know, you won't see this car leak any fluids as it has the belly pans. The rear main seal leak is common to the C32 and E55. A friend of mine finally wore out his E55 rear seal and was enough leaking fluid to drip from the belly pan.
5. Check the steering pump for signs of leaking. Mine never went bud but a lot of them do and they are expensive to replace.
6. Not critical, but check the panic alarm/siren. The siren unit is in the front passenger wheel well. It has an internal battery that will die over time and start randomly going off. In my case, I completely removed the unit so only the flashing lights worked.
I went through 2 alternators in mine, not sure if that was a fluke or not.
I never had the rear diff fluid changed, or the supercharger coolant. I never had any problems in 130k.
Motor mounts/trans mounts are critical. I had mine replaced around 90k and it felt like a brand new car. I was also able to notice a difference once the trans fluid was changed.
The 2003 models were fairly solid minus some of the issues mentioned above. The 2002 was awful. Many of them were part of the MB buyback program.
If you do end up buying it, I saw a brand new set of C32 floor mats on ebay. Something I was looking for the entire time I owned mine. Hard to find those in good condition let alone brand new.
1. AC/heat issues. Make sure there are no popping sounds from the dash when the car first starts. They usually last about 30 seconds and then stop. Check each AC vent for cold/hot air. They should all feel uniform. If not something is broken like the control arms or motors. It's usually NOT the motor, but nonetheless either requires removing the entire dash.
2. I had (2) head gasket leaks over the years. Nothing specific to the C32 as this will occur with nearly any car. Check to see if they have been replace or for signs of leaking.
3. Pulley failure. These should be changed around 100k. If not one will eventually seize. When that happens, it will throw the serpentine belt. In my case, it shaved some of the aluminum bracket it was attached to. That bracket was also part of the water pump which meant new pulleys, new water pump, and T-stat. Again, not C32 specific but important to know if they have been changed.
4. Rear main seal. Shortly after my car was out of warranty ~55k miles, the dealer said my rear main seal was leaking. Quoted me like $3000 to fix. Had my private AMG certified mechanic look at it. He said only moisture spot, not worth doing and to keep an eye on it. It only got marginally worse over the next ~80k miles. Important to know, you won't see this car leak any fluids as it has the belly pans. The rear main seal leak is common to the C32 and E55. A friend of mine finally wore out his E55 rear seal and was enough leaking fluid to drip from the belly pan.
5. Check the steering pump for signs of leaking. Mine never went bud but a lot of them do and they are expensive to replace.
6. Not critical, but check the panic alarm/siren. The siren unit is in the front passenger wheel well. It has an internal battery that will die over time and start randomly going off. In my case, I completely removed the unit so only the flashing lights worked.
I went through 2 alternators in mine, not sure if that was a fluke or not.
I never had the rear diff fluid changed, or the supercharger coolant. I never had any problems in 130k.
Motor mounts/trans mounts are critical. I had mine replaced around 90k and it felt like a brand new car. I was also able to notice a difference once the trans fluid was changed.
The 2003 models were fairly solid minus some of the issues mentioned above. The 2002 was awful. Many of them were part of the MB buyback program.
If you do end up buying it, I saw a brand new set of C32 floor mats on ebay. Something I was looking for the entire time I owned mine. Hard to find those in good condition let alone brand new.
02-20-2024, 08:10 PM
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2001 Mercedes Benz CLK55 AMG
2001clk55 amg
Hello. I have recently purchased a 2001 clk55 AMG. But when in park or at low acceleration the transmission seems to be whining. Could it be low on fluid or is it going out. It shifts fine but just makes that damn noise please help
02-20-2024, 08:29 PM
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2001 Mercedes Benz CLK55 AMG
2001clk55 amg
Hello. I have recently purchased a 2001 clk55 AMG. But when in park or at low acceleration the transmission seems to be whining. Could it be low on fluid or is it going out. It shifts fine but just makes that damn noise please help
05-31-2024, 11:43 PM
#6
It's a great car for my daily driver, but not without it's share of maintenance issues. You are about due for a number of items on this list, which may cost a bundle, unless you can do them yourself (plenty of help here) and will make the car reliable for the long run.
Here's a buying guide I put together:
Buyers Guide:
1. Check if the radiator is a Valeo brand. If so, you may want to have the tranny fluid checked for glycol contamination since these radiators were found to have a defect that could cause this. If build date is after 9-2003, or if it's been replaced with Behr, it's good. The old radiators used small metal tabs that were bent over to hold the end caps on. The tabs are less than 1/4" wide and can be seen at the top corners of the radiator. If the tranny fluid is contaminated with glycol, the car may shift harshly or make jerking movements around 1500 rpm while you are moving slowly.
2. Check intercooler pump is working. You can hear it buzzing for about 10 seconds right after you shut the engine off if you are in a quiet garage or get out of the car and put an ear under the right front bumper. If the IC pump is not working right, the supercharger will overheat, shutdown, and the car will feel like it has no power. Run it hard a few times on the freeway to make sure the supercharger is working while it is hot.
3. Listen to the supercharger pulley for any squeaking or grinding noise. Bad bearing is likely. Supercharger air charge cooler is know to leak coolant into the intake, and replacement is $1000 (DIY) and pulling the supercharger. Look for low coolant in the tank, or slowly dropping, with no leaks evident.
4. Listen for squeaky bushings in the front or rear suspension while going over speed bumps. Not a big problem, but common and annoying.
5. Check for fluid leaks. Valve covers, power steering pump, rear main seal, tranny electrical connector, and differential leaks.
6. Check to make sure all doors lock.
7. Check seat heaters work.
8. Engine: The camshaft adjuster solenoid (which is related to the variable valve timing) tends to fail. The crankshaft position sensors tend to fail. Motor mounts and the trans mount need to be changed every 80K miles. Any loose or noisy belt pulleys or adjusters need to be changed.
9. Suspension & Steering: Irregular and premature tire wear can be caused by the front thrust link bushings cracking and causing excessive movement in the suspension. The thrust link bushings are fluid-filled (to help reduce vibration), so if they crack, they will leak oil.
10. Drive Train: A vibration felt through the center floor of the vehicle can be caused by driveshaft flex discs, which crack and shred, causing excessive driveshaft movement. Not repairing these can cause damage to the driveshaft center support bearing, or, in the worst-case scenario, damage to the transmission or differential. Check the half shafts for bad rubber boots.
High mileage or older vehicles develop leaks at the differential seals and cover; the whole unit needs to be resealed to repair the leaks.
11. Electrical & Lights: Brake light switch failure can cause the ESP and BAS warnings to illuminate.
The early versions of the central gateway module (which allows different systems to communicate with each other) have software problems.
Lack of audio or cell phone functionality may be related to the failure of the audio gateway module. The stock phone is not digital, and no longer works in most cars.
Fluids can damage the weight sensor in the front passenger seat, causing the SRS (airbag) light to illuminate. The electrical switch in the seat cushion susceptible to fluid damage, so dry up any spills immediately.
Many software updates are available for the different computer systems, but if the vehicle is out of warranty, it may cost money to receive the updates. Some updates may be dealer-only, but a well-equipped independent shop can usually provide updates as well.
12. Heating & Air Conditioning: A failed digital heater control valve can cause a lack of heat output from the climate control system. Heater control valve may cause hot and cold from center vents. This can be repaired with upgraded levers for the vent controls, but requires pulling apart the dash.
13. If possible, get a scan with a Star Diagnostic System (SDS) to uncover any unknown issues. There will be records for any failures.
14. Check for records of trans fluid changed every 60K miles, fuel filter, air filters, cabin filters, differential fluid, and supercharger fluid are also maintenance items.
Here's a buying guide I put together:
Buyers Guide:
1. Check if the radiator is a Valeo brand. If so, you may want to have the tranny fluid checked for glycol contamination since these radiators were found to have a defect that could cause this. If build date is after 9-2003, or if it's been replaced with Behr, it's good. The old radiators used small metal tabs that were bent over to hold the end caps on. The tabs are less than 1/4" wide and can be seen at the top corners of the radiator. If the tranny fluid is contaminated with glycol, the car may shift harshly or make jerking movements around 1500 rpm while you are moving slowly.
2. Check intercooler pump is working. You can hear it buzzing for about 10 seconds right after you shut the engine off if you are in a quiet garage or get out of the car and put an ear under the right front bumper. If the IC pump is not working right, the supercharger will overheat, shutdown, and the car will feel like it has no power. Run it hard a few times on the freeway to make sure the supercharger is working while it is hot.
3. Listen to the supercharger pulley for any squeaking or grinding noise. Bad bearing is likely. Supercharger air charge cooler is know to leak coolant into the intake, and replacement is $1000 (DIY) and pulling the supercharger. Look for low coolant in the tank, or slowly dropping, with no leaks evident.
4. Listen for squeaky bushings in the front or rear suspension while going over speed bumps. Not a big problem, but common and annoying.
5. Check for fluid leaks. Valve covers, power steering pump, rear main seal, tranny electrical connector, and differential leaks.
6. Check to make sure all doors lock.
7. Check seat heaters work.
8. Engine: The camshaft adjuster solenoid (which is related to the variable valve timing) tends to fail. The crankshaft position sensors tend to fail. Motor mounts and the trans mount need to be changed every 80K miles. Any loose or noisy belt pulleys or adjusters need to be changed.
9. Suspension & Steering: Irregular and premature tire wear can be caused by the front thrust link bushings cracking and causing excessive movement in the suspension. The thrust link bushings are fluid-filled (to help reduce vibration), so if they crack, they will leak oil.
10. Drive Train: A vibration felt through the center floor of the vehicle can be caused by driveshaft flex discs, which crack and shred, causing excessive driveshaft movement. Not repairing these can cause damage to the driveshaft center support bearing, or, in the worst-case scenario, damage to the transmission or differential. Check the half shafts for bad rubber boots.
High mileage or older vehicles develop leaks at the differential seals and cover; the whole unit needs to be resealed to repair the leaks.
11. Electrical & Lights: Brake light switch failure can cause the ESP and BAS warnings to illuminate.
The early versions of the central gateway module (which allows different systems to communicate with each other) have software problems.
Lack of audio or cell phone functionality may be related to the failure of the audio gateway module. The stock phone is not digital, and no longer works in most cars.
Fluids can damage the weight sensor in the front passenger seat, causing the SRS (airbag) light to illuminate. The electrical switch in the seat cushion susceptible to fluid damage, so dry up any spills immediately.
Many software updates are available for the different computer systems, but if the vehicle is out of warranty, it may cost money to receive the updates. Some updates may be dealer-only, but a well-equipped independent shop can usually provide updates as well.
12. Heating & Air Conditioning: A failed digital heater control valve can cause a lack of heat output from the climate control system. Heater control valve may cause hot and cold from center vents. This can be repaired with upgraded levers for the vent controls, but requires pulling apart the dash.
13. If possible, get a scan with a Star Diagnostic System (SDS) to uncover any unknown issues. There will be records for any failures.
14. Check for records of trans fluid changed every 60K miles, fuel filter, air filters, cabin filters, differential fluid, and supercharger fluid are also maintenance items.
Hi i have a question about a c32 amg my diff broke down i am about to order a used diff from someone but its a bolt on diff i mean it got bolts that need to be screwed on and thats it but mine have a different one in mine the axhe shaft actually goes inside the diff itself so you think it will be able to fit on mine?
08-17-2024, 09:12 AM
#7
Last edited by WadeBrookss; 08-17-2024 at 10:00 AM.
