C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

NO power to radio, all fuses intact

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Old 09-23-2017, 05:02 PM
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NO power to radio, all fuses intact

Just like the title states. Shortly after I got a new battery, the radio wouldn't power on. I have checked all fuses, including the one behind the head unit. They are all good. I replaced a few with new ones just for good measure. Still no power to the head unit. Everything else is checking out ok. Please help.
Old 09-28-2017, 02:38 PM
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2006 C55 AMG
have you checked the fuse for "sound system" that was my issue
Old 09-28-2017, 03:07 PM
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Any idea where that fuse is located? Trunk? Interior? Under hood? Any idea what number fuse? Thanks!
Old 09-28-2017, 03:21 PM
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I just looked it up. It's fuse 26 located in the dash. I will double check that one, but I'm 99% sure I already did and it's good to go. Any other ideas?
Old 09-28-2017, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Zippity
I just looked it up. It's fuse 26 located in the dash. I will double check that one, but I'm 99% sure I already did and it's good to go. Any other ideas?
When i bought my car, there was no power to the radio. Looking through all the fuse locations, i narrowed it down to sound system. In my case the entire fuse was missing, not blown. When i put the fuse back in everything started working again just fine. If i remember correct its either 26 or 27 and its a 5 amp
Old 09-28-2017, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by amg_nik
When i bought my car, there was no power to the radio. Looking through all the fuse locations, i narrowed it down to sound system. In my case the entire fuse was missing, not blown. When i put the fuse back in everything started working again just fine. If i remember correct its either 26 or 27 and its a 5 amp
fuse 26 is a 25 amp and 27 is a 30 amp according to the chart and owners manual. Both are there and in tact. My radio was working when I bought the car but shortly stopped working after I got a new battery for the vehicle. This may or may not be related. Again, thx for your help, I am skeptical that this is a fuse issue, but am open to any and all ideas.
Old 09-30-2017, 02:45 PM
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Anyone with any further ideas? Seem so like it would be any easy fix.
Old 10-15-2017, 11:57 AM
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Any help? Any ideas? Could the radio simply die? Seems very unlikely...
Old 10-15-2017, 09:02 PM
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When you say that you checked the fuses, did you check them visually, or did you check them with an ohm meter or a continuity tester? Sometimes these fuses can look perfectly fine, but actually be blown. You can either check by pulling each fuse out and testing with meter or continuity tester (should light the light on continuity test or show zero ohms on an ohm meter), or you can use a volt meter and test to be sure you have normal voltage (if car is "off" should be 12 volts, if running, should be 13.6 volts or so) ON BOTH SIDES of each fuse. Sometimes power gets to the fuse, but not past it, indicating a bad fuse.
Old 10-15-2017, 09:10 PM
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sometimes there is a fusible link or inline fuse in the actual harness, particularly with high draw circuits like audio or lighting.

unfortunately its almost impossible to bench test anything anymore, so I would probably use a voltmeter to confirm I am getting +12v at the radio itself. You can use a needle to poke into the wire to get a reading. im sure many here will cringe at that thought, but i ask, what are the alternatives for trouble shooting?
Old 10-16-2017, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveE400
When you say that you checked the fuses, did you check them visually, or did you check them with an ohm meter or a continuity tester? Sometimes these fuses can look perfectly fine, but actually be blown. You can either check by pulling each fuse out and testing with meter or continuity tester (should light the light on continuity test or show zero ohms on an ohm meter), or you can use a volt meter and test to be sure you have normal voltage (if car is "off" should be 12 volts, if running, should be 13.6 volts or so) ON BOTH SIDES of each fuse. Sometimes power gets to the fuse, but not past it, indicating a bad fuse.
I bought new fuses and replaced all of the ones specific to the radio. I don't think it's that. Maybe I should attempt and redo the entire process.
Originally Posted by nycphotography
sometimes there is a fusible link or inline fuse in the actual harness, particularly with high draw circuits like audio or lighting.

unfortunately its almost impossible to bench test anything anymore, so I would probably use a voltmeter to confirm I am getting +12v at the radio itself. You can use a needle to poke into the wire to get a reading. im sure many here will cringe at that thought, but i ask, what are the alternatives for trouble shooting?
Im one that shivers at the thought of that as well. But like you said, after I can say for certain that it's not the fuses, what alternative am I left with?
Old 10-16-2017, 08:11 AM
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'15 T&C & '14 SL63
There may be a screw in fuse in the back of the unit too.

Obviously I am working in generalities, without any knowledge of the specific unit or wiring involved.
Old 10-16-2017, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by nycphotography
There may be a screw in fuse in the back of the unit too.

Obviously I am working in generalities, without any knowledge of the specific unit or wiring involved.
i checked the fuse located on the backside of the unit. It was good. I replaced it anyways.
Old 10-16-2017, 08:34 AM
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'15 T&C & '14 SL63
amazon (among others) has bladed fuse test lead sets. you can at least prove power coming into the fuse box (could be a blown larger block fuse at distribution panel for example).

GTC CT6100 Fuse Socket Connector Kit

Also, since does have a screw in fuse in the back, that makes a reasonable place to test power into the head unit w/o piercing a wire.

Last edited by nycphotography; 10-16-2017 at 08:37 AM.

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