Carlsson Coilovers installation
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Brisbane, Australia
C200K (w204)
Does that mean that the new one can go lower (front)?? I have the old school one and i just completely remove the rear adjustable perch 
. As for the noise, i experience it as well and probably need a washer and that plastic 'condom' to fix it.
. As for the noise, i experience it as well and probably need a washer and that plastic 'condom' to fix it.
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From: South Florida
Fast Cars!
Originally Posted by smgC32
There is a V2 owner on this board. Maybe he can comment as to the design and take a few pics for us to see.
Former Vendor of MBWorld
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From: South Florida
Fast Cars!
Originally Posted by Prasith32
i think its cschow
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Former Vendor of MBWorld
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,403
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From: South Florida
Fast Cars!
Originally Posted by cschow
Yup, that would be me with the KW-V2's! I'll try to post something more useful to this thread tonight about the V2, but I can't do that right now.
The wait is killing me! :p I wish you could have just said in that post that they dont need to be taken out to adjust them!
Member
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: San Diego, CA
2006 Corvette Coupe
Originally Posted by BlackC230Coupe
The wait is killing me! :p I wish you could have just said in that post that they dont need to be taken out to adjust them!
He told me the following:
The KW-V2's do NOT have to be removed to adjust ride height. Adjusting the front height is a "no brainer." Adjusting the rear height is apparently a little bit more difficult, as apparently having some weight loaded onto the suspension makes it easier. Bottom line, he estimates it would take a regular person 1.5 hours to readjust height and someone with a lift about 0.5 hours to do the same. The KW-V2's also have rebound adjustments, which can be adjusted without removing anything.
I think, if you wanted to adjust the rebound, you'd probably want to go with something similar to the PSS-9 based systems where you have discrete settings you can set. That would make it much easier to set all four corners to the same settings, for example.
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: South Florida
Fast Cars!
Originally Posted by cschow
Okay, since you can't wait, I took the liberty of calling the mechanic who installed them for me.
He told me the following:
The KW-V2's do NOT have to be removed to adjust ride height. Adjusting the front height is a "no brainer." Adjusting the rear height is apparently a little bit more difficult, as apparently having some weight loaded onto the suspension makes it easier. Bottom line, he estimates it would take a regular person 1.5 hours to readjust height and someone with a lift about 0.5 hours to do the same. The KW-V2's also have rebound adjustments, which can be adjusted without removing anything.
I think, if you wanted to adjust the rebound, you'd probably want to go with something similar to the PSS-9 based systems where you have discrete settings you can set. That would make it much easier to set all four corners to the same settings, for example.
He told me the following:
The KW-V2's do NOT have to be removed to adjust ride height. Adjusting the front height is a "no brainer." Adjusting the rear height is apparently a little bit more difficult, as apparently having some weight loaded onto the suspension makes it easier. Bottom line, he estimates it would take a regular person 1.5 hours to readjust height and someone with a lift about 0.5 hours to do the same. The KW-V2's also have rebound adjustments, which can be adjusted without removing anything.
I think, if you wanted to adjust the rebound, you'd probably want to go with something similar to the PSS-9 based systems where you have discrete settings you can set. That would make it much easier to set all four corners to the same settings, for example.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2003
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Front ride height adjustment is the same for all coilover kits. Just take the wheel off and turn the perch, either with the wrenches, or sometimes even by hand. The rear is where we will see some differences. The Carlsson/Bilsteins which have their adjustble stalk at the bottom are also easy to adjust if they were not set to low inside the lower control arm. Same procedure, just take off the wheel and use the wrenches to turn the perch. As access is limited here, you have to take small turns with the wrench and it takes a little longer to adjust, but still easy. Let's see those installation pics of the rear KW's to compare!!
As for adjustment, the Carlsson/Bilstein's could not be easier. The front and rear are the same in terms of adjustment, each with a rotary knob and distinct indents that are labeled 1-9 for values. The KW's have a flat head type end that is rotated in either direction to adjust valving. You need to know where full open and closed is and then turn the stalk the desired number of degrees along the rotation until you come to the point you desire. Some kits provide a adjustment knob type tool that fits over the flat head tip and has a circular handle to turn the knob. It is best to mark a reference point somewhere to keep track of the position of the valve adjuster. It is easy to set both sides differently if you are not careful. The fronts are easy to adjust and exposed. I have not seen the rear units, but it is my understanding that to adjust the rebound you must take the shock off and turn/twist it. I believe it is different that the adjustable Koni units where you can access the adjustment at the shock tower mounts.
As for adjustment, the Carlsson/Bilstein's could not be easier. The front and rear are the same in terms of adjustment, each with a rotary knob and distinct indents that are labeled 1-9 for values. The KW's have a flat head type end that is rotated in either direction to adjust valving. You need to know where full open and closed is and then turn the stalk the desired number of degrees along the rotation until you come to the point you desire. Some kits provide a adjustment knob type tool that fits over the flat head tip and has a circular handle to turn the knob. It is best to mark a reference point somewhere to keep track of the position of the valve adjuster. It is easy to set both sides differently if you are not careful. The fronts are easy to adjust and exposed. I have not seen the rear units, but it is my understanding that to adjust the rebound you must take the shock off and turn/twist it. I believe it is different that the adjustable Koni units where you can access the adjustment at the shock tower mounts.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Great White North (the one with the crappy dollar)
2002 c32
smgC32 / Others
sorry to bring up an old post but I'm having some "knocking" sound on the rear of my c32 and have a few Q's as they pertain to the Pic's in POST # 8.
1) On the 3rd Photo -illustrating the Driver's Rear Assembly- I see that the lowest part of the Spring has the sharp "wedge" ending sitting towards the outside of the car. Mine is the same but it this flatter/sharper edge of the spring seems to be lifting and occasionally getting caught on the Adjustment Collar Centre Tubing (Say when heavy braking and readying for a sharp right turn. Should this edge not be sitting towards the inside of the car as you have on the Passenger side photo.
2) It seems that the OEM rubber base (PART # A210 325 0384) was not used in the PSS9 re-assembly. This rubber part is what the OEM springs sat in. Was this to be re-used. Does anyone know if these are the Spring Pads that come in various sizes?
3) On the 2nd Photo (Rear Passenger side) your shock seems to have the adjustment knob facing the Front (vs. the rear-facing one on the Drivers side). Was this done intentionally or could the rear shocks be mounted either way. Which way seems more convenient for easier adjustment?
TIA
lap
sorry to bring up an old post but I'm having some "knocking" sound on the rear of my c32 and have a few Q's as they pertain to the Pic's in POST # 8.
1) On the 3rd Photo -illustrating the Driver's Rear Assembly- I see that the lowest part of the Spring has the sharp "wedge" ending sitting towards the outside of the car. Mine is the same but it this flatter/sharper edge of the spring seems to be lifting and occasionally getting caught on the Adjustment Collar Centre Tubing (Say when heavy braking and readying for a sharp right turn. Should this edge not be sitting towards the inside of the car as you have on the Passenger side photo.
2) It seems that the OEM rubber base (PART # A210 325 0384) was not used in the PSS9 re-assembly. This rubber part is what the OEM springs sat in. Was this to be re-used. Does anyone know if these are the Spring Pads that come in various sizes?
3) On the 2nd Photo (Rear Passenger side) your shock seems to have the adjustment knob facing the Front (vs. the rear-facing one on the Drivers side). Was this done intentionally or could the rear shocks be mounted either way. Which way seems more convenient for easier adjustment?
TIA
lap
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2003
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The posted pics were taken during installation prior to final set up and lowering on to the ground. The rear shocks are both rotated so that the adjustment knobs face towards the rear of the car for easy adjustment. Facing them in towards the front of the car would make it very difficult to adjust. The rear shocks are not handed so you could in theory do this. As for the springs, they have been rotated many times since installation. I would agree that it would be best to put the thickest part of the bottom spring coil towards the outside which will give it the greatest surface area contact with the spring perch. It is very common after lifting the car the the springs don't seat properly and after some driving you will hear a huge clunking sound which is from the spring seating itself on the perch. I pull the spring with a strap at the same time I lower the car so I ensure the spring is seated properly. Under extreme driving conditions, I think the spring could lift out of its perch, as I have heard on a few occations the clunking sound you have described and attribute it to the spring re-seating itself.
The rubber spring pads are not reused in this type of installation since the adjustable collar in secured in the lower control arm's spring recess and the new spring rests directly on the perch, therefore the spring pad could not be used on the lower contact point as it would not fit properly on the perch itself. You do however use a spring pad on the upper location, either utilizing the supplied pad or the factory pad.
The rubber spring pads are not reused in this type of installation since the adjustable collar in secured in the lower control arm's spring recess and the new spring rests directly on the perch, therefore the spring pad could not be used on the lower contact point as it would not fit properly on the perch itself. You do however use a spring pad on the upper location, either utilizing the supplied pad or the factory pad.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 252
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From: Great White North (the one with the crappy dollar)
2002 c32
Thanks
that would explain a lot. I was just wondering if I should go through the extra trouble (which Bilstein should have) of machining a perch with a longer collar which would seem to resolve this issue?
Thanks again!
BTW you had previously mentioned looking into a Koni Race Setup, how did that go?
Thanks again!
BTW you had previously mentioned looking into a Koni Race Setup, how did that go?
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bay Area, CA
2005 E55, 2010 ML350
guys,
serious MB newbie here. i pick up my first end of this month. new E55. heard the understeering is a big issue and would like to make the car more neutral. can resolve with coilover kit. who do you recommend and where do i buy these? talked to dealer and they don't want to hear about it at all.
thanks,
gareth
serious MB newbie here. i pick up my first end of this month. new E55. heard the understeering is a big issue and would like to make the car more neutral. can resolve with coilover kit. who do you recommend and where do i buy these? talked to dealer and they don't want to hear about it at all.
thanks,
gareth
