has anyone changed their lower control arm bushings themselves
First, those of you that know me also know that I'm typically mod-averse when it comes to my CLK55, which was purchased new in June 2002. I added the factory extended warranty before that first year was up, so my coverage is extended to June 2009, or 100K miles.
I've done some little (mainly cosmetic) modifications to personalize it, but stopped short of doing much of anything else, except for going to 18" Monoblock IIs and adding the euro-spec springs.
Thank goodness we have a resource locally (Atlanta) that not only understands our cars inside and out, but also has the desire to experiment.....it also helps that mbenzman owns two AMGs (ML55, W208-55 cabrio) and a 500E among many other cars, which spells credibility in my book. Aside from just being competent (he's the one who de-Malcomized Ted Baldwin's beast), Rich is "one of us" and is active in participating in many of the meets, including the Private AMG Track Day coming up this week.
Now on to the feedback....
I am sorry I didn't have this mod done when I picked up the car 5 years ago, when it was new (I've had that 60mph shimmy in one form or another - from slight to moderate - since I picked the car up)! I always chalked it up to needing tires or perhaps switching up to 18s.....Keep in mind, my W208/55 only has 33K miles on it and the main LCA bushings that came out of that car were already shot! They are definitely the weak part of the 208, 202 and 210 suspensions....probably others too.
I had a long list of things I had done at "Benzwerks" which is Rich's shop in Roswell including:
- Super ATE brake fluid
- Install SS lines
- Install new main LCA polyurethane bushings
- Remove 18s and install 17s
- Inspect brake rotors and pads, r/r as necessary
- Oil and filter change
- Coolant flush
- Diff. fluid change
- Tranny fluid change
- Alignment + high speed balance
- New steering damper
- Install new adjustable bolts
- New wiper insert!
I did notice a smoothness after the tranny and diff fluid changes and this will become routine maintenance for me every 30K miles.
I picked up the car Friday after work and Rich showed me the stock bushings he took out. The rubber along the inside of the metal sleeve had already separated, rendering the bushings virtually useless. I didn't have much time for a test drive when I picked it up, but drove over 100 miles yesterday afternoon and I couldn't be more happy! The car is ROCK-STINKIN' SOLID and get absolutely no shimmy of any kind. Remember, I did an alignment, went back to 17s and had the wheels high speed balanced, so I'm sure I couldn't give all the credit to the bushings, but I had experienced shimmy previously after having all these services performed (and they helped), but never ELIMINATED the issue.
Remember what you felt like when you bought your car? Excitement....elation? I feel like I have a brand new car again!
Last edited by Chappy; Apr 8, 2007 at 06:10 AM.
First, those of you that know me also know that I'm typically mod-averse when it comes to my CLK55, which was purchased new in June 2002. I added the factory extended warranty before that first year was up, so my coverage is extended to June 2009, or 100K miles.
I've done some little (mainly cosmetic) modifications to personalize it, but stopped short of doing much of anything else, except for going to 18" Monoblock IIs and adding the euro-spec springs.
Thank goodness we have a resource locally (Atlanta) that not only understands our cars inside and out, but also has the desire to experiment.....it also helps that mbenzman owns two AMGs (ML55, W208-55 cabrio) and a 500E among many other cars, which spells credibility in my book. Aside from just being competent (he's the one who de-Malcomized Ted Baldwin's beast), Rich is "one of us" and is active in participating in many of the meets, including the Private AMG Track Day coming up this week.
Now on to the feedback....
I am sorry I didn't have this mod done when I picked up the car 5 years ago, when it was new (I've had that 60mph shimmy in one form or another - from slight to moderate - since I picked the car up)! I always chalked it up to needing tires or perhaps switching up to 18s.....Keep in mind, my W208/55 only has 33K miles on it and the main LCA bushings that came out of that car were already shot! They are definitely the weak part of the 208, 202 and 210 suspensions....probably others too.
I had a long list of things I had done at "Benzwerks" which is Rich's shop in Roswell including:
- Super ATE brake fluid
- Install SS lines
- Install new main LCA polyurethane bushings
- Remove 18s and install 17s
- Inspect brake rotors and pads, r/r as necessary
- Oil and filter change
- Coolant flush
- Diff. fluid change
- Tranny fluid change
- Alignment + high speed balance
- New steering damper
- Install new adjustable bolts
- New wiper insert!
I did notice a smoothness after the tranny and diff fluid changes and this will become routine maintenance for me every 30K miles.
I picked up the car Friday after work and Rich showed me the stock bushings he took out. The rubber along the inside of the metal sleeve had already separated, rendering the bushings virtually useless. I didn't have much time for a test drive when I picked it up, but drove over 100 miles yesterday afternoon and I couldn't be more happy! The car is ROCK-STINKIN' SOLID and get absolutely no shimmy of any kind. Remember, I did an alignment, went back to 17s and had the wheels high speed balanced, so I'm sure I couldn't give all the credit to the bushings, but I had experienced shimmy previously after having all these services performed (and they helped), but never ELIMINATED the issue.
Remember what you felt like when you bought your car? Excitement....elation? I feel like I have a brand new car again!

Thanks for the great thread, information and follow up guys!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Just to clarify, the bushings we are talking about are only the rear bushings on the front lower control arms on 202 and 208's, and no, you don't need to and shouldn't replace the front bushings. I also wouldn't try to use these as they wouldn't be stiff enough for that application.
On a w210 the bad bushings are the front ones on the front lower control arms. Different car, same issue, I haven't sourced urethane bushing for them. Yet!
Thanks for the kind words Chappy. I guess your pleased. Go ahead and push it a little before I see it for a check up.
Rich
Here's what the oem bushings look like. The biggest bushing is the one that fails and has been replaced by a few people in this thread.

This complete set is listed for $95 on ebay.
I just ordered the rear bushings for the front control lower arms because I read that the front pair rarely fail. I ordered the last pair of the Polyurethane on ebay as of 10 minutes ago.
I figure they're only about $10 for the sets of bolts and nuts, and I'm assuming washers(4 total bolts), so I might as well have them replaced.
By the way, I was quoted $160(labor only) for each side including ball joint replacement by a shop.
couple questions...
1. Are the stock bolts going to work with the Polyurethane bushings?
2.Are the stock bolts eccentric?
Last edited by sfclk; Nov 7, 2008 at 11:59 PM.
also for being so tutorical with fotos explaining what you have done or found
out , I'd say better than a works manual .
Having experienced some instability problems with my C43 witch reacently
passed a vehicle inspection without any remarks , I was just about to have it
undergo a wheelalignment job .
Now I have changed my mind after reading this , and ask myself what is the
most likely fault to roadholding and a nervous feel to the steering ?
If there is no obvious play in any balljoint or steering linkage what apart from
bad tyres and wheel alignment is the most likely problem can it be thouse
lower controllarm bushings ?
I run AMG E55 mono ll 18" wheels and am starting to think they are not
optimal offset/insetwise I do not know if the 202 or 208 ' s are sensitive
to that?
Finally Rich , as can be seen on the fotos of the front crossmember on
your CLK there are two stiffeningbars are they oem made for the
open top body or what? Roger







