c43 60,000 mile service
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,761
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
98 Black C43 , 12’ ML 350 Blutec
-Tranny FLUSH
- CPS (crank position ) sensor
- check to make sure Harmonic Balancer recall has been performed ( recall- free)
- fuel filter
- re-grease mono-wiper arm
- check cabin filter
- CPS (crank position ) sensor
- check to make sure Harmonic Balancer recall has been performed ( recall- free)
- fuel filter
- re-grease mono-wiper arm
- check cabin filter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 0
1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
+1 on all, all easy DIY projects save for the tranny and HB. I posted some instructions I found a while back on mbworld for the monowiper.Maintaining Monowiper
Tools needed for repairing the wiper arm
1. Small mirror
2. Dental pick or small Allen wrench
Instructions
1. Raise the hood for improved access.
2. With the ignition off, rotate the wiper switch to the first position.
3. Turn the ignition on and off rapidly, so as to move the wiper arm out of the park position.
4. Move the arm manually to the straight up position.
5. Remove the three-sided rectangular cover (lower end of arm) that extends over the cap by pulling it straight up from the bottom end.
6. Using a sensitive fingertip or a dental mirror, locate the two small recessed rectangular openings on the underside of the cap at roughly the 5 and 7 o'clock positions.
7. Using a tool with a 90 deg end such as a dental pick or a small Allen wrench, release the catches in the access holes while pulling the cap upward with the left hand.
8. Now that the entire articulated wiper actuator is in plain view, you will see as I did that the shaft that extends the arm up into the windshield corners (twice per sweep) is very likely no longer lubricated.
9. Remove all the old grease from the shaft and bushing using for example a cloth soaked with lacquer thinner or similar, moving the arm back and forth to expose the arm surfaces inside the bushing.
10. Apply new lubricant and I don't mean WD-40. I used Sil-Glyde, a silicone grease which has a working temp range of -20 to +400 deg F. *
11. Reassemble in reverse order.
* I've used Tetra Gun Grease and Kleen Bore's TW25 B High Tech Lubricant - items I use on my various projectile emitting devices, these lubricants will remain adhered to the slide rails/guides better than any oil.
Last edited by StapleGun; Oct 10, 2007 at 06:16 AM.
