C43 Fan Clutch Testing Procedure
03-28-2010, 06:16 AM
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C43 Fan Clutch Testing Procedure
What is the proper procedure for testing the fan clutch and how to tell if it needs to be replaced? Also, is there any DIY writeup on replacing the fan clutch?
03-28-2010, 07:06 PM
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
The best way I have found to test it is to leave the car overnight, open the bonnet and start the engine (has to be first time you start it for the day) and immediately rev the engine to 2000-2500rpm and hold it. The engine fan should be roaring and have a very large air flow and then drop down within the next 15 seconds to a low air flow and bearly audible.
If it doesn't have the initial large airflow then the clutch has failed.
If it doesn't drop down within 30seconds then it may be seized, turn the engine off and see if you can turn the fan manually. if you can't then replace it.
Remember any time you remove the viscous coupling from the engine you must keep it upright (same orientation as if it were installed) otherwise the silicone fluid can leak out of the back of the hub rendering it useless. This doesn't apply to new/unused hubs.
If it doesn't have the initial large airflow then the clutch has failed.
If it doesn't drop down within 30seconds then it may be seized, turn the engine off and see if you can turn the fan manually. if you can't then replace it.
Remember any time you remove the viscous coupling from the engine you must keep it upright (same orientation as if it were installed) otherwise the silicone fluid can leak out of the back of the hub rendering it useless. This doesn't apply to new/unused hubs.
03-29-2010, 01:37 AM
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Ausmbtech:
Thanks for the tips! I'll try your suggestions and see if I can confirm if the fan clutch is on its way out. From what I can see, my car seems to come up to temperature properly and the temp is good cruising at highway speeds when there's large airflow to the radiator. However, I'm starting to notice slightly higher temps when in traffic and when ambient temp is high. Hence, my speculation that the fan clutch may be on its way out.
If I were to turn the fans when the engine has been sat cold over night, how should a good clutch behave? From what you suggested, there should be large resistance to manually turning the fan under that condition, correct?
In regards to your suggestion about keeping the clutch upright when removed which does not apply to new clutches, does that mean there is a plug of some sort on the new clutch (for retaining the fluid during storage) that must be removed prior to installing it onto the car?
Thanks for the tips! I'll try your suggestions and see if I can confirm if the fan clutch is on its way out. From what I can see, my car seems to come up to temperature properly and the temp is good cruising at highway speeds when there's large airflow to the radiator. However, I'm starting to notice slightly higher temps when in traffic and when ambient temp is high. Hence, my speculation that the fan clutch may be on its way out.
If I were to turn the fans when the engine has been sat cold over night, how should a good clutch behave? From what you suggested, there should be large resistance to manually turning the fan under that condition, correct?
In regards to your suggestion about keeping the clutch upright when removed which does not apply to new clutches, does that mean there is a plug of some sort on the new clutch (for retaining the fluid during storage) that must be removed prior to installing it onto the car?
03-29-2010, 04:06 AM
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
There is some resistance when it's cold, but it's hard to gauge.
The reason why you don't need to worry about a new clutch is because the seal hasn't worn so the fluid won't leak out. once a clutch has seen a few years service it will leak a bit if it is left sitting with the seal facing down.
The reason why you don't need to worry about a new clutch is because the seal hasn't worn so the fluid won't leak out. once a clutch has seen a few years service it will leak a bit if it is left sitting with the seal facing down.
05-31-2012, 05:26 AM
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00 C200 & 00 C55 & 06 SLK55
*C43 uses a Clutch #: "112 200 01 22 or 112 200 02 22",, and a Fan #: "113 200 01 23"
*E430 & E/CLK55 uses a Clutch #: "119 200 02 22 or 113 200 00 22 or 113 200 01 22 or 113 200 02 22",, and a Fan #: "113 200 02 23"
anyone can tell what’s the different between 55s & 43 fan & clutch, and is it related to the distance of the fan blades........!?!
ZAYED,,
*E430 & E/CLK55 uses a Clutch #: "119 200 02 22 or 113 200 00 22 or 113 200 01 22 or 113 200 02 22",, and a Fan #: "113 200 02 23"
anyone can tell what’s the different between 55s & 43 fan & clutch, and is it related to the distance of the fan blades........!?!
ZAYED,,
Last edited by cm60k; 05-31-2012 at 05:30 AM.
