Climate control unit
#1
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Climate control unit
My climate control unit has the LCD problem where it won't show everything, is there some sort of fix for this or do I just have to buy a new unit?
#2
tap the glas carefylly with your finger and the digits should come back!
this is what I do.
buying a new unit is a biage!
if your digits are burned out and they never come back then you have to get it fixed if possible or buy a new deck from autohaus or another cheap internet vendor.
these Climate head unit decks are crap.
they all suffer from losing their digits when they get old.
#3
vac line can't cause the digits fading out?
digits gone is from the plastic film between screen and the connectors in the HU losing contact.
At least what I heard.
On some SAAB cars with digital display from 98 and onwards, cheap fix was to take the iron and apply an owen paper to the back of the film and apply heat from the iron, this way it's back in contact again.
I dunno for how long this helps but it might help?
#5
#6
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I have the same problem with my C240T but not seen it (yet) on the C43. Gently tap the screen on the side (not onto the crystal screen) and the numbers should come back alive. Sometimes the screen shows humidity inside. In this case, try to increase or decrease the temp and the humidity should also disappear.
#7
Some place can fix these I found online. Located in Taunton, MA. They wanted $300.00
I found slight pressure in the center of mine (top of the frame of the LCD) will hold it. I am going to try to wedge a business car size piece in the center and see if that holds it.
I found slight pressure in the center of mine (top of the frame of the LCD) will hold it. I am going to try to wedge a business car size piece in the center and see if that holds it.
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#8
For what its worth I tried the card board wedge and so far 3 days it works for mine well. No LCD going blank. Not sure if its a solution to your troubles but it is working for mine so far.
I used a thicker piece about the width of a cereal box card board. I trimmed it down so its flush with the frame and used a black marker on the exposed side. Its not noticeable.
I used a thicker piece about the width of a cereal box card board. I trimmed it down so its flush with the frame and used a black marker on the exposed side. Its not noticeable.
#9
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For what its worth I tried the card board wedge and so far 3 days it works for mine well. No LCD going blank. Not sure if its a solution to your troubles but it is working for mine so far.
I used a thicker piece about the width of a cereal box card board. I trimmed it down so its flush with the frame and used a black marker on the exposed side. Its not noticeable.
I used a thicker piece about the width of a cereal box card board. I trimmed it down so its flush with the frame and used a black marker on the exposed side. Its not noticeable.
I tried pushing all around my face and it didn't really work. If I tap the actual face it will work for short periods of time but I do not consider this a fix..... I am probably going to get mine fixed or a new one but that will be at the bottom of my list as the unit does still work just fine I just can't see temps and such.
#10
I tried pushing all around my face and it didn't really work. If I tap the actual face it will work for short periods of time but I do not consider this a fix..... I am probably going to get mine fixed or a new one but that will be at the bottom of my list as the unit does still work just fine I just can't see temps and such.
when I tap the glass display digits come back for long time I mean during I drive my car.
this is a good way to waste money on a half working part!
I want a new deck but it still works, buying new just to see the digits perfect?
I dunno now?
I guess that these digits are failing is because our cars are using stiff suspenson and all the vibrating fuuuks up the electronic boards
#11
Sorry I couldn't offer all a easy fix. I do know they pull off easy as the radios. Maybe a dead 202 in Junk Yard could offer a cheap replacement vs a $300- repair. I got a wiper control unit for $20-
#12
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Wish I could find a junk yard that had mercedes, don't know why but I can't seem to find one close or that has any parts that I need.
#13
Its luck of the draw with them. I have one locally that I would check in with. Get some local numbers and call em once in a while?
Potomac German Auto is a Huge MB graveyard and will have things you can't find. I scored a replacement for my dimming side view mirror for less than new. They are not cheap cause they kind of know what they have. The local guy here I find does not care so much. They want to move the biggy parts ya know?
Potomac German Auto is a Huge MB graveyard and will have things you can't find. I scored a replacement for my dimming side view mirror for less than new. They are not cheap cause they kind of know what they have. The local guy here I find does not care so much. They want to move the biggy parts ya know?
#14
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Its luck of the draw with them. I have one locally that I would check in with. Get some local numbers and call em once in a while?
Potomac German Auto is a Huge MB graveyard and will have things you can't find. I scored a replacement for my dimming side view mirror for less than new. They are not cheap cause they kind of know what they have. The local guy here I find does not care so much. They want to move the biggy parts ya know?
Potomac German Auto is a Huge MB graveyard and will have things you can't find. I scored a replacement for my dimming side view mirror for less than new. They are not cheap cause they kind of know what they have. The local guy here I find does not care so much. They want to move the biggy parts ya know?
#15
so it happens with the LCD display that it works perfect on and off, looking like new.
it's a sneeky bugger!
but it's damaged and needs a fix or replacement.
#16
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Mind tonight decided to join the club of faulties. Gave a gentle tap and all worked again!
#17
#18
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So I have had enough of my faulty LCD display...... I am picking up some of the radio removal keys tomorrow and I am pulling my climate control unit. I found a thread that discussed what the cause of the faulty LCD is and I am going to see if the thread is right. I will post results tomorrow.
#19
So I have had enough of my faulty LCD display...... I am picking up some of the radio removal keys tomorrow and I am pulling my climate control unit. I found a thread that discussed what the cause of the faulty LCD is and I am going to see if the thread is right. I will post results tomorrow.
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
AC control unit
They're for sale on the 'bay' ALL the time - as of this morning 06/30/2010 there's one for sale for $159 Verify the P/N on this unit LINK
#21
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95' AMG SeeThreeSix
When you take it apart it might be a zebra connector LCD setup. These are little plastic rubber strips that conduct from the PC board to the actual LCD. If the rubber deteriorates and distorts these contacts no longer press against the LCD and PC board contacts sufficiently thus why pressing on the screen helps the problem. Try to clean them up, or best case try to find replacement LCD zebras.
#22
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UPDATE... LCD FIXED!!!
So I tore the climate control unit apart today and put it all back together and BOOOOOOOOOM!!!! IT WORKS!!!!! Here is what I did.....
1.) Bought the radio removal keys from the dealership for $10.50, these are used to pull the radio AND climate control unit
2.) pulled the Climate control unit out of my car using the radio removal keys. You slide the keys in and you will hear a click, the keys have a handle and you just pull out the unit. There are 2 connectors on the unit which you have to push down on a little tab and slide the weird gray plastic "hinge" thingy all the way which will pop out the connectors. Hard to explain but if you pull it out you will see exactly what I am talking about.
3.) I opened the unit by lifting 4 tabs on the top and putting in some small metal shims to keep them from popping back in (you could use almost anything like paper or whatever I just had these metal things that worked perfectly) then you depress the 3 tabs on the bottom of the unit (I was prying it open as I depressed the tabs to keep them from popping back in)
4.) you will need to remove the light bulb on the bottom of the unit (simply twist and pull, I used needle nose pliers) as well as the security locking tabs (again I used needle nose pliers as they just pull out) after these are removed you can pull out the circuit board form the main housing. The face will still be attached to the circuit board.
5.) you need to remove 6 screws that have a star pattern from the circuit board, these hold the face onto the board (you will need a special screwdriver for this, I believe the size is SD10, whatever that means)and then you will need to lift the tabs you had used earlier to remove the main housing as they have a notch that holds the circuit board in place. Again this is hard to explain but once you get to this step you will see what I mean.
6.) You will now be able to remove the face (the black part with the
buttons on it) form the circuit board and LCD screen.
7.) You should be able to see the ribbon cable that goes from the board to the LCD screen. I disconnected the LCD from the ribbon cable at the LCD screen connector (I tried to remove it from the circuit board as well but it was stuck or it's not meant to come off either way I left it on) and cleaned the connections.
8.) There is a white piece of plastic with rubber on the ends of it ( It looks similar to what appatula posted as a "zebra board" but mine looked a little different as it had small rubber pieces that came off the side and held onto the LCD screen.) It appeared to me that this was only used to locate and mount the screen. I made sure it was on there tight and then I put it all back together by reversing everything I just did. I made sure to tighten the star screws REAL well....
Immediately I noticed that my button action was WAY more crisp and I could clearly hear a loud CLICK every time I pushed a button.
So I went out to my car and put the climate control unit back in and .......
1.) Bought the radio removal keys from the dealership for $10.50, these are used to pull the radio AND climate control unit
2.) pulled the Climate control unit out of my car using the radio removal keys. You slide the keys in and you will hear a click, the keys have a handle and you just pull out the unit. There are 2 connectors on the unit which you have to push down on a little tab and slide the weird gray plastic "hinge" thingy all the way which will pop out the connectors. Hard to explain but if you pull it out you will see exactly what I am talking about.
3.) I opened the unit by lifting 4 tabs on the top and putting in some small metal shims to keep them from popping back in (you could use almost anything like paper or whatever I just had these metal things that worked perfectly) then you depress the 3 tabs on the bottom of the unit (I was prying it open as I depressed the tabs to keep them from popping back in)
4.) you will need to remove the light bulb on the bottom of the unit (simply twist and pull, I used needle nose pliers) as well as the security locking tabs (again I used needle nose pliers as they just pull out) after these are removed you can pull out the circuit board form the main housing. The face will still be attached to the circuit board.
5.) you need to remove 6 screws that have a star pattern from the circuit board, these hold the face onto the board (you will need a special screwdriver for this, I believe the size is SD10, whatever that means)and then you will need to lift the tabs you had used earlier to remove the main housing as they have a notch that holds the circuit board in place. Again this is hard to explain but once you get to this step you will see what I mean.
6.) You will now be able to remove the face (the black part with the
buttons on it) form the circuit board and LCD screen.
7.) You should be able to see the ribbon cable that goes from the board to the LCD screen. I disconnected the LCD from the ribbon cable at the LCD screen connector (I tried to remove it from the circuit board as well but it was stuck or it's not meant to come off either way I left it on) and cleaned the connections.
8.) There is a white piece of plastic with rubber on the ends of it ( It looks similar to what appatula posted as a "zebra board" but mine looked a little different as it had small rubber pieces that came off the side and held onto the LCD screen.) It appeared to me that this was only used to locate and mount the screen. I made sure it was on there tight and then I put it all back together by reversing everything I just did. I made sure to tighten the star screws REAL well....
Immediately I noticed that my button action was WAY more crisp and I could clearly hear a loud CLICK every time I pushed a button.
So I went out to my car and put the climate control unit back in and .......
#23
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IT WORKS!!!!!!
Here is a pic of the radio removal keys I got for $10.50 from the dealership
Here is a pic (crappy I know) of the light bulb located on the under side of the unit
Any of you guys have any questions let me know.... This was pretty easy and took about 30 minutes. We will see how long it lasts.....
Here is a pic of the radio removal keys I got for $10.50 from the dealership
Here is a pic (crappy I know) of the light bulb located on the under side of the unit
Any of you guys have any questions let me know.... This was pretty easy and took about 30 minutes. We will see how long it lasts.....
#24
IT WORKS!!!!!!
Attachment 186203
Here is a pic of the radio removal keys I got for $10.50 from the dealership
Attachment 186205
Here is a pic (crappy I know) of the light bulb located on the under side of the unit
Attachment 186204
Any of you guys have any questions let me know.... This was pretty easy and took about 30 minutes. We will see how long it lasts.....
Attachment 186203
Here is a pic of the radio removal keys I got for $10.50 from the dealership
Attachment 186205
Here is a pic (crappy I know) of the light bulb located on the under side of the unit
Attachment 186204
Any of you guys have any questions let me know.... This was pretty easy and took about 30 minutes. We will see how long it lasts.....
i like the write ups you make about your problems with your car.
BOM! BOM! BOM!
keep us posted how the homebrew remedy worked out.
eyes on the road and eyes on the lcd panel on n off!
hands ontop on the blanket!
so your tapedeck display is f----d up too?
it looks like a huge inkspot!
get your self another deck like the one I recommended you the APS 30 or something better!
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 07-01-2010 at 04:29 AM.
#25
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Great write up! As I couldn't find the radio removal keys I have somewhere in a dark corner, I used one of the thicker feeler gages you use to adjust valve tappet clearances. Works great to push out the spring retainer even if you can't use them to pull out the unit. You have to prise out on of the sides then the other and disconnect the plug.