C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

Rolling my rear fender?

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Old 01-15-2011, 12:19 PM
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W203 C55 and SAAB 9-3 2.0T
Rolling my rear fender?

I have been toying with this idea for weeks now and I think I am ready to do it. Who else has done this? Did you guys DIY or pay someone else? I don't know where to even start looking to make sure some idiot doesnt deform my car. I want to put my rear wheel spaces back on but DO NOT want to lift my car at all. I also want to move up to 18x9.5/10 in the rear some day so I need to get this done anyway. What do you guys think? Open to opinions and thoughts!
Old 01-15-2011, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by austinholloman
I have been toying with this idea for weeks now and I think I am ready to do it. Who else has done this? Did you guys DIY or pay someone else? I don't know where to even start looking to make sure some idiot doesnt deform my car. I want to put my rear wheel spaces back on but DO NOT want to lift my car at all. I also want to move up to 18x9.5/10 in the rear some day so I need to get this done anyway. What do you guys think? Open to opinions and thoughts!
The fender is already rolled by AMG....
Old 01-15-2011, 01:03 PM
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the thing with fender rolling isnt messing up the fender, the tool is fairly easy to use, its getting the paint hot enough to bend with the roll and not crack but not too hot that the paint will start to peel. its prolly better to let the pros do it unless you have a heated space and the time to do this very slowly

btw eastwood products has a fender rolling tool
Old 01-15-2011, 02:19 PM
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ha ha i took a base ball bat to my 911, started near the front slide to back repeat a million times viola rolled front lips some take a razor knife along the edge to keep it from cracking

i did the left to right portion i did not go up and down
Old 01-15-2011, 07:26 PM
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Honestly, using a baseball bat, heat gun, and LOTS of patience is normally more foolproof than using the tool. I think the tool probably works just fine as well, but I also think that it encourages people to move too quickly.....the paint really needs to be heated very thoroughly, and then the metal needs to be worked gently and in very small increments if you want to get it right. Even with that said, you will more than likely split the paint in a couple spots depending on how much roll you give it. Easy fix, you can even use clear nail polish to cover this up on areas that aren't visible (ie the inside). I had the rears rolled on my M3, and was very satisfied with the results, but I had a really experienced guy do it, who had a lot more patience than I would have.....I just lent him a hand, and observed the master do his work.
Old 01-15-2011, 07:38 PM
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yea the base ball bat sliding only moves minimal where the tool allows to go to fast and crack paint, but i still would not roll the fender on the up/down as it distorts the fender,

no need your lips should be rolled
Old 01-15-2011, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by austinholloman
I have been toying with this idea for weeks now and I think I am ready to do it. Who else has done this? Did you guys DIY or pay someone else? I don't know where to even start looking to make sure some idiot doesnt deform my car. I want to put my rear wheel spaces back on but DO NOT want to lift my car at all. I also want to move up to 18x9.5/10 in the rear some day so I need to get this done anyway. What do you guys think? Open to opinions and thoughts!
Mine are rolled, they were rolled when i got the car already
Old 01-16-2011, 03:44 AM
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I guess ill try and find a local guy here in Dallas to do thr dirty work. I know me and ill move too fast and crack paint and yell a lot...
Old 01-16-2011, 07:02 AM
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give jake at eurocharged a call. he is adding another location in dallas and they may be able to do it for you
Old 01-16-2011, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
give jake at eurocharged a call. he is adding another location in dallas and they may be able to do it for you
Your kidding?! I had no idea this was coming! Can you pm his contact info?
Old 01-18-2011, 11:13 PM
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You probably won't have to do it at all if you use a K-Mac camber kit rather than an adjustable top arm!

One of the things I've learned with K-Mac is that they put some serious thought into how they make their camber adjusters, wherever possible working it so it's to the typical owner's advantage.
Old 01-18-2011, 11:21 PM
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austinholloman you know you may be able to mill a few mm off the back of your wheels
Old 01-19-2011, 06:55 AM
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^ Um what? It rubs at the front of the wheel not the back. With the spacers off and three adults in that back at WOT it doesn't rub. Just when I have the 10mm spacers on or an 18x9.5 or bigger on the rears. I would like to put my spacers back on for now and move to 18x9.5/10's maybe later this year. Something lightweight and with a nice lip.
Old 01-19-2011, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by austinholloman
Your kidding?! I had no idea this was coming! Can you pm his contact info?
try auto scope foreign car care. its on e/c facebook page
Old 01-19-2011, 10:50 PM
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I've been to autoscope a few times. Its were jerry's going to be doing dyno tunes here in dallas next week. I didn't know they did this type of body work. Thanks for the tip! Ill email carson up there and see what they would charge.
Old 01-20-2011, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by austinholloman
I've been to autoscope a few times. Its were jerry's going to be doing dyno tunes here in dallas next week. I didn't know they did this type of body work. Thanks for the tip! Ill email carson up there and see what they would charge.
i dont know for sure they do this but most shops can do it
Old 01-21-2011, 06:35 AM
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Rolling the rear fender does not bring any advantage. The minimum space on rear is not the fender itself but the corner between fender and bumper. To get mor space, you need to cut the metal that goes under 90° into the wheel housing before rolling your fenders.
Next you need to find a new solution to fix the rear bumper.
I solved it with welding a screw onto the back of the fenders where I can mount the bumper.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:46 PM
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How much damage has been done by the Mercedes world not knowing better than to use arms that adjust the top of the wheel outwards?

It's plain to see that pulling the bottom of the wheel inwards is the better way to go, make clearance rather than destroy it.

That's why the K-Mac kits for these cars are made that way. Save you the trouble of rolling and cutting and at the same time replace bushes which you would need to replace anyway. They're also more accessible for adjustment on the aligner and allow you to get whatever camber setting you want.
Old 01-24-2011, 03:50 AM
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Bushes versus camber arms

Originally Posted by Leeward
You probably won't have to do it at all if you use a K-Mac camber kit rather than an adjustable top arm!

One of the things I've learned with K-Mac is that they put some serious thought into how they make their camber adjusters, wherever possible working it so it's to the typical owner's advantage.
Originally Posted by Leeward
How much damage has been done by the Mercedes world not knowing better than to use arms that adjust the top of the wheel outwards?

It's plain to see that pulling the bottom of the wheel inwards is the better way to go, make clearance rather than destroy it.

That's why the K-Mac kits for these cars are made that way. Save you the trouble of rolling and cutting and at the same time replace bushes which you would need to replace anyway. They're also more accessible for adjustment on the aligner and allow you to get whatever camber setting you want.
Thanks for the eye opener Guess camber arms is not the ideal solution then. Looks like it is better and easier to go the adjustable bushes way, even if they are more expensive. But then you two 2 things for a little bit more, so could finally be good value for your money.

Last edited by DRBC43AMG; 01-24-2011 at 03:54 AM. Reason: Completed post

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