Is there a front camber kit for our cars?
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Get the kmac on the rear and you won't need the camber arms. The adjustments are in the rear bushes
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From: San Francisco, CA
1996 C36
hey what do you guys think of this for our cars?
http://www.club202.com/forums/showth...ar-camber-arms
thinking of kmac front and this rear to save a few $$...
http://www.club202.com/forums/showth...ar-camber-arms
thinking of kmac front and this rear to save a few $$...
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Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
Next 4 weeks for forum members in USA/Canada, express air freight (average delivery time is 3 to 4 days) $30 for one kit or $40 for front and rear.
Front Camber and Caster - precisely adjustable with Rear Camber (and extra Toe) adjustment! No special tools required to fit.
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99 c43 amg
H&R shorts, #1 up front, #4 in rear. hardly any rubbing at all. only really from a small tab on inner rear bumper. and I probably only get that slight rubbing due to having to run spacers for the c55 calipers
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
I mostly want something to eliminate the steering issues.
I guess i run way too much camber in front and more than normal caster so the car grabs every imperfection on the road and is all over the place.
I dont understand why id need this kit tho because my car didnt act like this when i first lowered it.
Do i really need this?
I guess i run way too much camber in front and more than normal caster so the car grabs every imperfection on the road and is all over the place.
I dont understand why id need this kit tho because my car didnt act like this when i first lowered it.
Do i really need this?
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I mostly want something to eliminate the steering issues.
I guess i run way too much camber in front and more than normal caster so the car grabs every imperfection on the road and is all over the place.
I dont understand why id need this kit tho because my car didnt act like this when i first lowered it.
Do i really need this?
I guess i run way too much camber in front and more than normal caster so the car grabs every imperfection on the road and is all over the place.
I dont understand why id need this kit tho because my car didnt act like this when i first lowered it.
Do i really need this?
maybe your other suspension parts are worn?
did you replace all suspension arms front and rear achel?
i did that on my car all new parts when i had it lowered, she rides stiff like a new car
if you only swapped springs and shox and the rest is worn, you know the results of that.
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Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
Front Camber and Caster kit (W202) #502016J $380.
Rear Camber (and extra Toe) kit #502026H $320.
Total Front and Rear including delivery ($40) $760.
Keep in mind that these kits for the first time allow precise/accurate adjustment of front and rear Camber, Caster, Toe to resolve all alignment issues including improved brake and steering response
Costly, premature inner edge tire wear, steering pull along with the bonus of replacing at the same time the 4 front and 4 rear highest wearing bushes and with the K-MAC patented design - bushings have twice the load bearing area of OEM. Essential if altering height, fitting wide profile tires, wheels, load carrying or curb knock damage.
The only alternative is basic one only position offset bolts (only available for front). These offering a minimal .3 of one degree (1/8 of an inch – 3mm) and labour intensive each time to remove, replace.
While the unique K-MAC design on W202 offers 3 times the adjustment range with no disassembly required each time to change settings.
Instead “single wrench” on car (precise/accurate “under load” direct on alignment rack).
Full, precise ongoing adjustment – fixing it right the first time! Ending the frustration of numerous visits to dealers or alignment shops or constantly changing tire brands (the statement “Full Front and Rear Alignment” means what it says).
For the rear K-MAC adjust the lower control arm inwards to resolve premature inner edge tire wear and adjustment again is easily accessible – single wrench.
Alternative is upper link arms but these adjust top of tire outwards decreasing all important clearance top of tire to outer fender.
K-MAC rear kits – Camber can be fitted on car – no need for lower arm removal. While the Toe kit included doubles the existing adjustment range to cater for the new Camber facility.
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From: Sydney, Australia
190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
I've used Kmac before and they do tend to get noisy (creaking) after a while.
I'm currently using Hedgehog Motorsport bushes and they are silent (so far). The Kmac ones are adjustable in car, the adjustments are quite stiff after a year of use. The Hedgehog ones do appear to be better quality but they aren't adjustable without some dis-assembly.
If you don't need the extra camber adjustment I would suggest using their factory bushes or W208 bushes (hydraulic, good for comfort). If you need the extra adjustment and don't need to adjust once fitted then I'd suggest the Hedgehog bushes.
I'm currently using Hedgehog Motorsport bushes and they are silent (so far). The Kmac ones are adjustable in car, the adjustments are quite stiff after a year of use. The Hedgehog ones do appear to be better quality but they aren't adjustable without some dis-assembly.
If you don't need the extra camber adjustment I would suggest using their factory bushes or W208 bushes (hydraulic, good for comfort). If you need the extra adjustment and don't need to adjust once fitted then I'd suggest the Hedgehog bushes.
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: New Zealand
C43 w/clk55 Organs
PJmak,
I had same problems with tracking when I lowered mine with hub to fender ~315 front,the increased camber and caster will cause this so correction will help alot, though I also think the front geometry is not so good/not designed to be lowered very far so will not be as ideal as at factory intended levels. would you be able to measure your hub to fender distance for me? for the 202 factory maximum lowering window is 0.1 degrees axle level front which is around 343 hub to fender, this is pretty much Euro springs #1 pads.
I had same problems with tracking when I lowered mine with hub to fender ~315 front,the increased camber and caster will cause this so correction will help alot, though I also think the front geometry is not so good/not designed to be lowered very far so will not be as ideal as at factory intended levels. would you be able to measure your hub to fender distance for me? for the 202 factory maximum lowering window is 0.1 degrees axle level front which is around 343 hub to fender, this is pretty much Euro springs #1 pads.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
PJmak,
I had same problems with tracking when I lowered mine with hub to fender ~315 front,the increased camber and caster will cause this so correction will help alot, though I also think the front geometry is not so good/not designed to be lowered very far so will not be as ideal as at factory intended levels. would you be able to measure your hub to fender distance for me? for the 202 factory maximum lowering window is 0.1 degrees axle level front which is around 343 hub to fender, this is pretty much Euro springs #1 pads.
I had same problems with tracking when I lowered mine with hub to fender ~315 front,the increased camber and caster will cause this so correction will help alot, though I also think the front geometry is not so good/not designed to be lowered very far so will not be as ideal as at factory intended levels. would you be able to measure your hub to fender distance for me? for the 202 factory maximum lowering window is 0.1 degrees axle level front which is around 343 hub to fender, this is pretty much Euro springs #1 pads.
Not really sure what you mean when you say hub to fender. Can you show me an example?
My car used to drive perfectly when i first lowered it and it was so much easier to steer than stock as well.
somewhere along the road and in between ****ty alignments and a few 150 dollar alignments that did nothing, my car started to wander around.
C43amgN8amg has identical setup except he has #1 pads in front and i ha e no pads. He says his car runs smooth and straight on any surface at any speed.
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From: New Zealand
C43 w/clk55 Organs
mb specs specific levels for the rear drive axle and front lower arm, this is so that when alignment checks are done the car is within its expected geometry windows. because this check requires a digital clino,or the mb tool for checking vehicle height its easier for forum use if we use hub to fender values as it gives a good reference to your suspension height based on what others have achieved, you can take this by measuring the diameter of your rim and dividing by two to get the radius value, then from the top centre of the rim measure from your rim edge to the fender lip, add this value to your rim radius and you'll get your Hub to fender value.
If your alignment shop did not use a spreader bar to press the front bushes and correct with mb specs this could add to the tracking, also because caster has increased this will also shift toe more under compression.. the suspension is set up to function right in mb specs and is not linear, but once you get your camber in check your alignment shop if good should be able to lesson the other issues with geometry by adjusting toe to suit...its a bit of a guessing game and will depend on other things like your wheels offset. ie running +36 on the front will track much less than +31..
If your alignment shop did not use a spreader bar to press the front bushes and correct with mb specs this could add to the tracking, also because caster has increased this will also shift toe more under compression.. the suspension is set up to function right in mb specs and is not linear, but once you get your camber in check your alignment shop if good should be able to lesson the other issues with geometry by adjusting toe to suit...its a bit of a guessing game and will depend on other things like your wheels offset. ie running +36 on the front will track much less than +31..
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
I have zero knowledge about this but id expect my car to ride better after a 150 dollar alignment. I dont trust anybody anymore. Im gonna disassemble the front suspension soon to make sure everything is good.
In the mean time im gonna measure hub to fender and post
In the mean time im gonna measure hub to fender and post
Last edited by PJmak; Mar 1, 2015 at 05:47 PM.
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Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
FACT IS THERE IS NO PRECISE ADJUSTMENT ANY MORE.
“FULL FRONT AND REAR ALIGNMENT” – IS ONLY “TOE” ADJUSTMENT.
YOU CAN PURCHASE INACCURATE ONE POSITION BOLTS (FRONT ONLY) BUT ONLY OFFER MINIMAL 3MM (1/8”).
We saw the need to end the frustration – to reinstate from the 1990’s Front Camber and Caster. Rear Camber (with extra) Toe. Precise fully adjustable suspension!
To fix it right – once and for all the first time. Patented “single wrench on car” – dialling in exact specs required (not “one position” bolts – “this is the best we can do”).
Resolving steering pull, premature inner edge tire wear, the capability to return vehicle to factory specs after curb knock damage, altering height, fitting wide profile tires/ wheels, load carrying.
Bonus is these four front and four rear bushes at the same time replace the highest wearing suspension bushings.
We are now in our 51st year of bush design and manufacture. World’s largest range of adjuster kits Audi to Volvo.
At K-MAC it is all about constant, ongoing development. Then proving on the racetrack – all out 10/10th competition.
Situations where race driver and spectator safety scrutineers from evaluation stipulate only K-MAC bushings are allowed to be used.
Design breakthroughs include bush locking devices where it is impossible for bolts to come loose. Long life elastomer bushings which have twice the load bearing area of OEM yet are still 2 axis without the air voids. Resolving premature bush wear – the result of bushes pounding out through this insufficient load bearing and/or loose bolt connections with metal to metal contact and resultant noise.
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From: New Zealand
C43 w/clk55 Organs
$150 is a really pricey alighment!, here our top alignment shops are ~$80, Only Mercedes charges $150 and they are the only place I know that uses the speader bar(aka toe press) flash workshop too.
If you swap out your factory front lower rear bush for solid ones(eg kmac) than the toe press is not necessary however you will get more road noise/chassis vibration etc
If you swap out your factory front lower rear bush for solid ones(eg kmac) than the toe press is not necessary however you will get more road noise/chassis vibration etc
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
$150 is a really pricey alighment!, here our top alignment shops are ~$80, Only Mercedes charges $150 and they are the only place I know that uses the speader bar(aka toe press) flash workshop too.
If you swap out your factory front lower rear bush for solid ones(eg kmac) than the toe press is not necessary however you will get more road noise/chassis vibration etc
If you swap out your factory front lower rear bush for solid ones(eg kmac) than the toe press is not necessary however you will get more road noise/chassis vibration etc
I had poly bushing installed and yes they are rough. Im honestly thinking about going back to stock.
If you were me. What would your first step be towards resolving the wandering?
I run bilstein sport with h&r sport shocks no pads front and I believe lowest pads in the rear. Assuming all parts are still good, how would you go about resolving this issue? Money isnt a problem, i just dont believe i need an after market camber kit. Maybe i do if i want to have my tires last longer but im not too concerned about that
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From: New Zealand
C43 w/clk55 Organs
Stock bushes ftw 
Did you take a measurement of hub to fender front and rear?.
As you know only thing good about lowering(outside of designed height) is the looks, the rest is compromised on the street, even your drive train losses become more as the squat increases CV angle.
It sounds like you either need to run the Kmac Kit, or raise the vehicle and run the MB camber bolts. unfortunately no win win here
Did you take a measurement of hub to fender front and rear?.
As you know only thing good about lowering(outside of designed height) is the looks, the rest is compromised on the street, even your drive train losses become more as the squat increases CV angle.
It sounds like you either need to run the Kmac Kit, or raise the vehicle and run the MB camber bolts. unfortunately no win win here
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Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
Yes this is why we have Race Safety scrutineers insisting that only K-MAC bushings are to be used.
SITUATIONS WHERE POLY BUSHES ELIMINATE THE AIR VOIDS BUT THEN BIND UP SUSPENSION. Not allowing arms to travel through their required arcs with subsequent excess harshness, wheel tramp through arms locking up under braking and can lead to arm breakage. While K-MAC are designed to allow “2 axis movement” which is essential in today’s vehicles with “multi link arms” and various “mount angles”.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 672
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From: New Zealand
C43 w/clk55 Organs
No problem , also thinking about your comment when you first lowered it didn't track, with increased camber the tire becomes coned shaped with or without wear which causes tracking, as it wears it becomes worse, alignment or even camber correction wont entirely fix this once the tire has begun to wear into a cone!.
, also thinking about your comment when you first lowered it didn't track, with increased camber the tire becomes coned shaped with or without wear which causes tracking, as it wears it becomes worse, alignment or even camber correction wont entirely fix this once the tire has begun to wear into a cone!.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
No problem , also thinking about your comment when you first lowered it didn't track, with increased camber the tire becomes coned shaped with or without wear which causes tracking, as it wears it becomes worse, alignment or even camber correction wont entirely fix this once the tire has begun to wear into a cone!.
, also thinking about your comment when you first lowered it didn't track, with increased camber the tire becomes coned shaped with or without wear which causes tracking, as it wears it becomes worse, alignment or even camber correction wont entirely fix this once the tire has begun to wear into a cone!.I just measured the fender to hub.
Rim diameter is 19 3/4 and top of the rim to fender lip is 2 inches.
So thats 9 7/8 plus 2 inches which makes it 11 inches and 7/8
that makes it 301.623 mm if i did the math right
Last edited by PJmak; Mar 3, 2015 at 01:45 PM.
