CEL Light: EGR
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 12
...
CEL Light: EGR
Hello all, got CEL a little while ago on the C36 and its throwing code p0400 for EGR. Was getting new water pump installed recently, so I asked them to check it out figuring it just needed to be cleaned. My mechanic said he will not clean as it will only get clogged again with much prior experience, will only replace valve. Its very odd as his labor times are usually very fair but he quoted 4-5hrs for this.
Think I might attempt this one myself although I am struggling to find a good diy w/ pics and step by step. Any words of advise or a good diy link would be greatly appreciated. Can I also get confirmation that part#0021408460 is what I am looking for on a 95? He did say the part is only $30 but very labor intensive I guess. 
My car is running fine and emissions is good for another yr... I have cleared CEL twice for this, once it took 950 miles for CEL code to restate itself the next time was 430 miles or so.
THX!!
Think I might attempt this one myself although I am struggling to find a good diy w/ pics and step by step. Any words of advise or a good diy link would be greatly appreciated. Can I also get confirmation that part#0021408460 is what I am looking for on a 95? He did say the part is only $30 but very labor intensive I guess. My car is running fine and emissions is good for another yr... I have cleared CEL twice for this, once it took 950 miles for CEL code to restate itself the next time was 430 miles or so. THX!!
Last edited by RPB; Jun 26, 2011 at 09:17 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,437
Likes: 43
From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
1.) the part number he gave you is for the EGR vacuum check valve, not the actual EGR itself. The check valve is $30 but the EGR is much more expensive
2.) The EGR valve for the 1995 C36 is much more than $30, below are links to 2 different sites offering an OEM EGR valve, one for $141 and one for $133 (the first link has both the EGR check valve and the EGR valve):
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...68@EGR%20Valve
http://www.autopartsdeal.com/Parts_L..._benz/c36_amg/
I have been searching the WIS and found a section for EGR on the 202028 (C280/C36) chassis but it has no data so I am unable to give you a screen shot on how to replace the EGR valve, sorry
2.) The EGR valve for the 1995 C36 is much more than $30, below are links to 2 different sites offering an OEM EGR valve, one for $141 and one for $133 (the first link has both the EGR check valve and the EGR valve):
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...68@EGR%20Valve
http://www.autopartsdeal.com/Parts_L..._benz/c36_amg/
I have been searching the WIS and found a section for EGR on the 202028 (C280/C36) chassis but it has no data so I am unable to give you a screen shot on how to replace the EGR valve, sorry
Last edited by 503C43 ////AMG; Jun 26, 2011 at 10:39 AM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 12
...
1.) the part number he gave you is for the EGR vacuum check valve, not the actual EGR itself. The check valve is $30 but the EGR is much more expensive
2.) The EGR valve for the 1995 C36 is much more than $30, below are links to 2 different sites offering an OEM EGR valve, one for $141 and one for $133 (the first link has both the EGR check valve and the EGR valve):
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...68@EGR%20Valve
http://www.autopartsdeal.com/Parts_L..._benz/c36_amg/
I have been searching the WIS and found a section for EGR on the 202028 (C280/C36) chassis but it has no data so I am unable to give you a screen shot on how to replace the EGR valve, sorry
2.) The EGR valve for the 1995 C36 is much more than $30, below are links to 2 different sites offering an OEM EGR valve, one for $141 and one for $133 (the first link has both the EGR check valve and the EGR valve):
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...68@EGR%20Valve
http://www.autopartsdeal.com/Parts_L..._benz/c36_amg/
I have been searching the WIS and found a section for EGR on the 202028 (C280/C36) chassis but it has no data so I am unable to give you a screen shot on how to replace the EGR valve, sorry
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,437
Likes: 43
From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
This is all I could find using the EPC:
This is the location of your EGR valve (highlighted with a small blue rectangle)
For some reason the EPC was saying that the check valve part number supplied by your mechanic and confirmed by autohaus wasn't for the C36 (not sure why) but this is the only check valve I could locate that has a similar part number. It is located just after the shutoff valve from your air pump (again I am not sure if this is the correct valve but it is the only one I could locate in the EPC)
Hope this helps
This is the location of your EGR valve (highlighted with a small blue rectangle)
For some reason the EPC was saying that the check valve part number supplied by your mechanic and confirmed by autohaus wasn't for the C36 (not sure why) but this is the only check valve I could locate that has a similar part number. It is located just after the shutoff valve from your air pump (again I am not sure if this is the correct valve but it is the only one I could locate in the EPC)
Hope this helps
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Hey RPB,
I have the same thing going on with mine now. My mech told me that it's common for the M104 engines to get a clog in the EGR lines after some decent milage, right at #77 in 503's first diagram. I removed the throttle body and cleaned this out. Somehow in this procedure and cleaning the throttle body while it was out I managed to wreck the throttle body ($1800 with install ) but I thought at least I managed to fix the cel. Unfortunately it showed up again a couple days ago. I would just check all the tubes around there (especially the one that wraps around the back of the block and plugs into #77) and clean those out before you spend the money for different parts and long labour to replace the whole unit
I have the same thing going on with mine now. My mech told me that it's common for the M104 engines to get a clog in the EGR lines after some decent milage, right at #77 in 503's first diagram. I removed the throttle body and cleaned this out. Somehow in this procedure and cleaning the throttle body while it was out I managed to wreck the throttle body ($1800 with install
) but I thought at least I managed to fix the cel. Unfortunately it showed up again a couple days ago. I would just check all the tubes around there (especially the one that wraps around the back of the block and plugs into #77) and clean those out before you spend the money for different parts and long labour to replace the whole unit
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 12
...
This is all I could find using the EPC:
This is the location of your EGR valve (highlighted with a small blue rectangle)
For some reason the EPC was saying that the check valve part number supplied by your mechanic and confirmed by autohaus wasn't for the C36 (not sure why) but this is the only check valve I could locate that has a similar part number. It is located just after the shutoff valve from your air pump (again I am not sure if this is the correct valve but it is the only one I could locate in the EPC)
Hope this helps
This is the location of your EGR valve (highlighted with a small blue rectangle)
For some reason the EPC was saying that the check valve part number supplied by your mechanic and confirmed by autohaus wasn't for the C36 (not sure why) but this is the only check valve I could locate that has a similar part number. It is located just after the shutoff valve from your air pump (again I am not sure if this is the correct valve but it is the only one I could locate in the EPC)
Hope this helps
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 636
Likes: 29
From: MN, USA
C43 5.4, ML320CDI, Fords
It sounds like he doesn't know what he is doing.
The valve very rarely goes bad. It's almost always the tube from the valve, it wraps around the back of the engine from the valve. The tube gets clogged up solid. Usually just replace that tube as it's long and would be pretty hard/time consuming to clean it out, and I don't think the tube is all that expensive. I have done many of these back in the day, but it's been a while since I've seen one, don't get many m104's in the dealer any more.
The valve very rarely goes bad. It's almost always the tube from the valve, it wraps around the back of the engine from the valve. The tube gets clogged up solid. Usually just replace that tube as it's long and would be pretty hard/time consuming to clean it out, and I don't think the tube is all that expensive. I have done many of these back in the day, but it's been a while since I've seen one, don't get many m104's in the dealer any more.
