Pagz

I slipped off that upper bolt last week and lost most of the skin on my index nuckle =( lol.

To add to what vinceC said,I used a ring spanner on the top engine mount bolt,then used another larger ring spanner to leaver it off the engine or the manifold depending on which side your on,if your inclined just be careful where you leaver from to avoid any damage...places like where the inner side of the manifold is welded work well as a pivot point. You just have to be patient as your bound to drop the spanner multiple times and have trouble getting just the right sweet spot to leaver it from by flipping the ring spanner around etc.

Sulaco

Hmmm ironically I don't have a ring spanner that's 16mm. I have every size but that. Around these parts we call it a "box end wrench"

I tore into taking off the exhaust and heat shield so I could continue diagnosis. COULD NOT get the exhaust bolts loose where it connects at the downpipe. Also could not get nuts off heat shield bolts. They're so soft my tools kept rounding them off.

However, all is not lost. Out of anger, I just reached up past the exhaust and grabbed the drive shaft and shook it up and down and noticed it is indeed making a knocking sound. My best guess is the problem is my u joint or center support bearing (and not the transmission). The problem is I think I'm ready to give up on doing this job DIY. I need to get it to the shop, but I can't drive it like this. I'm wondering if I can get the other motor mount installed and that would make it driveable again (at least for the 50 mile trip to the shop). But, once again, I COULD NOT get that freaking top bolt off on the passenger side mount.

Presuming I do get a 16mm ring spanner, what up there is safe to lever off of? One of the hoops between exhaust ports on the header? Nothing else seems to even be in a good location to use as basis for a lever.

vinceC

I can't remember what I levered against. Probably the exhaust manifold or block/head. If you can't get much of a swing you can often get another "bite" by flipping the wrench over.

To get the driveshaft out I only removed the rear section of the exhaust - the joint is midway along the system. It isn't as easy on a C43 compared to the C280. The C43 has a slip joint on one pipe of the pair and it can be a bit of a PITA. Also, only the rear heat shield has to come out. And buy some new nuts/bolts from the dealer for reassembly.

An 8mm 6-point usually works fine for removing the heat shield nuts.

One thing is bothering me. How high do you have the car raised? I put the car on 4 quality jack stands around 15-18" off the ground. I wouldn't even try this type of work without having the car that high. Also, are you pre-soaking the nuts and bolts with a penetrating oil like PB Blaster?

Sulaco

Finding entire used driveshafts (with ujoint and center support already installed) on ebay for $100 all day long. Guess that's good news?

vinceC

As long as you are sure the driveshaft is better than what you have. That was the dilemma I faced. After removing and reinstalling the shaft several times I wasn't in the mood to chance it

Sulaco

Finally got that other motor mount replaced. Used a big wrench to lever it off the exhaust manifold.

Ticking sound has definitely lost some of its power but can still be heard a lot of the time. I noticed it quits entirely when I turn left and gets worse when I turn right. Think I can get the car to the shop 40 miles away now without a $200 tow bill.

dls55amg

sulaco post if u solve the problem,i came into a 98 nc43 amg in march of 2012,long story stepson drove it for 5 months,had similar issues with mine,oil cooler and test port gaskets,fan clutch,cps sensor, motor mounts ,upper control arms,alternator which was a nightmare,fan shroud,front inner fender linners,among others,two issues that concern me a noise similar to yours but not as loud and what seems is at the right front and a right rear thud at slow speed and rough road ,

Sulaco

Dropped it off at the shop. Awaiting word.

w124.036

I would agree with cm60k abouth your trans tunnel insulation....there is a repair we do and my dealership for this problem....we install a thin aluminum strap to hold up the sagging transmission tunnel insulation....there is a section on the right side of your trans tunnel that extends further back then the rest....this is the section that is most likely rubbing on your driveshaft....what happens is that the transmission tunnel insulation gets hot and continues to shrink and it pulls the insulation right out of the nuts that hold it in place....you can use a razor blade to cut off the section on the right hand side....let me know if this corrects your noise

Sulaco

I remember inspecting the areas around the drive shaft and couldn't see or feel anything coming close enough to rub.
Too late though, its already at the shop.

He's had it a couple days and called to update.

He said the driveshaft needed remanufacturing or replacing. He admitted it would be cheaper if I found one myself. I did, online for a hundred bones. Its used from a clk430. Should be here by the end of the week. He told me 2 hours labor to swap.

The troubling news was a problem I wasn't aware I had.

He asked if I knew about the huge oil leak. I told him I had already repaired it, the oil cooler, and I knew it was still covered in oil since I hadn't fully cleaned it yet.

He corrected me, oil leak he was referring to was one I didn't kmow about. He said the crankshaft seal was ruined and the timing chain was grinding on it. He said the car had no oil in it when he got to it!!!

Naturally this alarmed me a great deal. He said he replaced the seal and filled it up with the mobil 1 I had in the trunk. I only have a moderate driveway spot from the oil leaking. My only guess is that it mostly leaked out in the drive to his shop, which was about 40 miles.

I asked him for his honest assessment on if I should start looking for a new motor. He said he highly doubts it, and that I was very lucky. He repeated a couple times that he highly doubts any damage was done.

Asdfghjkl!!!!

DRBC43AMG

Yikes! Keeping fingers crossed now, but remember the M113's are tough as nails normally.
I have a M112 (V6) which had nearly no oil in the sump (dash warning light was on) when diving on the highway. Slowed the speed down till next exit and filled her up with some cheapo oil and continued my voyage to destination with no problems. The engine has since been flushed filter changed and filed with nice Mobil1. She ticks like a good Swiss clock.

Sulaco

That's very comforting news. When he first told me, my heart hit the floor. Ive been wanting to do at least one 5.4 liter swap, but seriously can't afford one of them right now.

Mechanic was very reassuring that I should have nothing to worry about, as these are "good motors." I'm simply blown away by the notion that I potentially drove 40 to 50 miles with little or no oil in the engine and allegedly harmed nothing. I don't know if that's an advertisement for oil or motor.

vinceC

For the front crankshaft seal to be touching the timing chain, the seal would have to be driven into the timing case by something. The seal is a tight fit in the timing case and isn't likely to slip inward and make contact with the timing chain.

Additionally, it would have to be driven in a fair distance, i.e several millimeters.

If your oil level is lower by a couple quarts the oil level warning light comes on. Was your warning light on?

Sulaco

The oil indicator was not on. Trust me, I keep a close eye on that. I had checked it a couple weeks ago and it was about 1/4 up the acceptable area on the dip stick. I hadn't driven it since then, and there was only a moderate puddle on the ground underneath it. I guess it leaked out on the drive to his shop?

I am pretty poor right now (just had second baby), and have no idea what to expect for the cost of the crank seal job. Does that typically run like $200? $700?

vinceC

If the indicator wasn't on and you checked the oil as you say, then I don't buy the mechanic's story. You would have had to leak 6-7 quarts on that drive. It would be everywhere, including the exhaust and you would have a strong burnt oil odor. If you we're so far from the shop I would make him show me the front seal and how it is shoved back into the timing case and chewed up. Your call, but I'd tell him no to the seal job.

Super B

Have to agree with Vince, hate to question the mans word but how did the seal move that far? Plus no low oil light... And to loose that much oil that fast? That would be all over the cats and smoking. Vince is spot on I'd want to see the seal and the damage to it.

Pagz

Seal must have been replaced and installed incorrectly, it is easy to punch it right through if you are not using the right tools. there is no other way a factory seal could have fallen inwards to touch the crank sprocket.

dls55amg

thanx to all,now I know where to look for the annoying sound /rubbing noise on my c43 which sounds like rubber against plastic,has anyone also had a right rear subframe bushing issue?like a momentarily sepearation of body and axle?car has 148k on the clock when it is 1 quart low, low oil lite comes on

Sulaco

Got the car back today.

Good condition driveshaft from a CLK430 installed. He showed me old drive shaft. The u-joint was shot. He knows a machine shop that could refurbish it for me, but it would be $300+, which is why he told me to find another one. 2 hour install on labor for that.

And as for the mysterious crank shaft seal:

Back story: when I bought it, PO said it had recently shredded a belt due to the oil leak in the front (remember, oil cooler gaskets were dead). He put a new belt on and removed as much as the old belt as possible.

What had happened was a big string of the old belt wrapped around the base of the harmonic balancer. Torque of the engine spun it in tighter and tighter. It shoved against the crank shaft seal, pushing it inside. I took pics of the belt string and seal. He's a good guy whom I trust. One of my best friends married his daughter, and we hang out at his shop from time to time to check out the classic european cars he gets in on a regular basis.

I bought the driveshaft online and had it delivered to him, $120. He's charging me $250 for the install plus the crank seal job. All in all, I am pleased.

Drove the car home just now. Good as new!

cm60k

Excellent work, glad to break that damn nightmare....

ZAYED,,

vinceC

Good to hear it all worked out well. But none of this explains how the oil level light did not come on or how you could lose so much oil and not be creating a smoky mess (if not start a fire!).

Sulaco

I think I figured that one out today, too.

Mechanic is Turkish born, and has a thick accent. I think I was taking him too literally. When he told me he saw that I had fresh oil in the trunk for my next change, he said he went ahead and used that oil to replace all the missing oil. But when I checked it today, only about 3 quarts were missing. I guess I missed his meaning when he was saying 'it leaked out all the oil.'

Sulaco

Pic related

Super B

makes a lot more sense now. Glad to hear the bill wasn't that bad.

Sulaco

How fun!

Car has been sitting the last 6 months, me only cranking it every once in a while to keep the engine lubricated.

Drove it for the first time today and this damn noise is back!