Are these camber arms too weak?
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Are these camber arms too weak?
While I don't auto cross my car yet I do have plans to as well as some track days. I also really enjoy the occasional power slide and hard cornering.
I have an appointment at the alignment shop on the 15th. so I'd love to get some opinions on if you think I'm going down the wrong path with these. I built them from a build sheet found in a thread on the forums and paid a little extra for polished stainless ends. I'd rather over build than under and could really use some experience.
I have an appointment at the alignment shop on the 15th. so I'd love to get some opinions on if you think I'm going down the wrong path with these. I built them from a build sheet found in a thread on the forums and paid a little extra for polished stainless ends. I'd rather over build than under and could really use some experience.
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
At first glance they look serious business and will probably wear better than camber arms with heim joints on the end. They will also be quieter on the road. Of course all depends what the base materials are. Providing the arms are from a quality and recommended steel index, I guess you are good to go and you can forget about them. Just out of curiosity, how much did they cost you to manufacturer?
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
See that's what I thought too.. At first glance they look very strong. Plus the rod is only ~225mm in lenght and the joints on either end screw in roughy 50mm so the amount of hollow rod is really not that much. Plus the rod it's self is made from 6061 aluminum with a T6 temper. As far as aluminum goes thats tuff stuff. But this thread was concerning. http://mbjunkies.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=373 thoughts?
Last edited by Super B; Jul 4, 2014 at 12:49 PM.
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
99 C43 AMG, 2001 CLK55 AMG
i have autocrossed the car for 3 seasons now and have done 4 track days and i have not had an issue with the stock arms. though i have never looked into camber arm upgrades.
i would like to run more negative camber in front so im considering the Kmac setup.
understeer/front tire grip will be the issue you run into first. and getting good at keeping the car balanced through the courses takes awhile since its not a very well balanced car in the first place. I would not go over the top on the small adjustment parts until you get a good amount of seat time.... that has been my experience in this car.
i would like to run more negative camber in front so im considering the Kmac setup.
understeer/front tire grip will be the issue you run into first. and getting good at keeping the car balanced through the courses takes awhile since its not a very well balanced car in the first place. I would not go over the top on the small adjustment parts until you get a good amount of seat time.... that has been my experience in this car.
Last edited by Dziner82; Jul 7, 2014 at 10:19 AM. Reason: grammar
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Good judgement ;-)
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; Jul 7, 2014 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Spelling!
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Thanks for the info.. Mostly the arm was to give the alignment shop some way of adjusting camber after on the rear after lowering it on vogtland springs. Doesn't seem like it's low enough warrant Kmac bushings on the front. Hopefully we can get away with the a MB camber bolt kits there
In hind sight if I had to do this again i would have skipped the adjustable camber arm on the rear and used the adjustable Kmac lower control arm bushing instead. It just makes more sense to pull in the bottom of the tire in with the lower control arm than to push the top of the tire out with a camber arm/toe adjustment. Plus as you adjust the camber arm and push the tire out at the top to decrease camber, it closes the clearance between the tire and fender. Running a 9.5 inch wheel I hate to give up any clearance at all. But i have an appointment with the alignment shop on the 15th. I don't think the 36 is low enough to cause any problems getting back into specs but just kind of learnings for next time.
In hind sight if I had to do this again i would have skipped the adjustable camber arm on the rear and used the adjustable Kmac lower control arm bushing instead. It just makes more sense to pull in the bottom of the tire in with the lower control arm than to push the top of the tire out with a camber arm/toe adjustment. Plus as you adjust the camber arm and push the tire out at the top to decrease camber, it closes the clearance between the tire and fender. Running a 9.5 inch wheel I hate to give up any clearance at all. But i have an appointment with the alignment shop on the 15th. I don't think the 36 is low enough to cause any problems getting back into specs but just kind of learnings for next time.
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From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Brandon I didn't even think about the pushing out vs. pulling in aspect. Oh well, going for some nice poke?
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Just an update. 4k miles on these and they are holding up pretty well. I did have to go backwards just a touch and drill and install some grease fittings. One is straight up and the other is at 90 degrees. Now i can keep fresh grease in them. Although it would be better if the bushing had grease channels. I may cut some later but it seems to be working well now and the alignment shop said he saw no problem with the set up. That being said I still think if I did it again I'd go Kmac.. Although this is a cheap route to go. 
Last edited by Super B; Oct 8, 2014 at 12:37 PM.
