No problem, good luck!

 

OK, so had a little more time to research and found that Sylvania/Osram also makes a 5000k HID (up to 5500k? Guess it's not an exact science on these temperatures) called the Silverstar Xenarc. So has anyone compared the Philips CrystalVision HID 5000k to the Sylvania/Osram?

After all of my interwebz searching, I've also realized that Sylvania is making an H1 bulb marketed as Silverstar zXe (this may also be the Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited?) that is halogen but at a whiter temperature, so no more yellow high beams. (btw, Philips makes an X-treme H1 bulb, but I read a review that said the Sylvania was brighter). First picture below is zXe in comparison to oem I guess. Second picture below is the Nightbreaker (left) (again I believe and I could be wrong but I think it is the same as zXe) versus the X-treme (power?) not positive this is the X-treme Vision they currently sell but the names are very similar (right).





I've also come up with three choices for the the fogs, also H1 bulbs (could also be fun to use one of these yellows for high-beam - maybe even the Hella Yellow Star since the bulb is white) Anyway, here are my selections:
1. PIAA ion 2500k
2. Putco jet y 3000k
3. Nokya hyper 2500k

Benz w/ PIAA

 

Interesting, thanks. Those are actually zXe's in my fogs btw. I like those PIAAs.

 

NP. I was going to ask about your fogs. Thought they were HID. I believe from all the searching and reading I've done that the PIAA and Nokya are the same color (both @2500k).

Here's a review from a guy on another board, "I have the jet yellows in my fogs. I can only compare them to DDMs 3k HID bulbs, but I like them better. The HIDs were a more yellow on the road, as the jet yellows are a little more goldish or darker, if that makes sense. But they look better when looking at the car head on. The HIDs for some reason didnt look that yellow, didnt always turn on on the first try, and had too much glare. "

Also some other guy stated that the PIAA and Nokya yellows were exactly the same, but I do not know if that was before or after PIAA increased their light output from 85w to 110w.

Here is an old chart I found somewhere re yellows:
Polarg Pure Yellow 55w (=100w) $54.95 (3000K)
Luminics JDM Yellow 55w (=130w) $28 (2500K)
Hella Yellow Star 85w $5.27 (x 2) (2500K)
Hella Yellow Star 55w $4.17 (x 2) (2500K)
Hella Optilux Extreme XY 55w $16.81 (3000K xenon)
PIAA Plasma Ion Yellow 55w (= 85w) $37.85 (2500K)
Nokya Hyper Yellow bulbs 55w (=70w) $15.50 (2500 K)


Full disclosure, I jacked all of this from other boards and internet places. Also for the ~5000k, seems like most agree that Philips are brighter while Osram are whiter with less blue.

PHILIPS:
OEM PRODUCT 85126 (4300k and 3200 lm)
DISCONTINUED 85126+ (4300k and 3400 lm),
USA & UK PRODUCT (Probably OEM) 85126VI (Vision 4400k 2900 ±300 lm - Life time: B3/Tc = 800/1600 - designed for single replacement -color match) from philips.com and philips.co.uk
(COLOR MATCH) DISCONTINUED? 85126CM (4300k also single replacement)
UK PRODUCT 85126XV (X-tremeVision 4700k 2800 +/- 450 lm - Life time: B3/Tc = 1500/2500) from philips.co.uk
UK PRODUCT 85126BVU (BlueVision Ultra 5000k up to 6000k 2800 ±450 lm - Life time: B3/Tc = 800/1600) from philips.co.uk
UNKNOWN PRODUCT 85126CX (5000k), (CrystalVision 5000k seemed to be stamped on the housing with CX)
USA PRODUCT 85126CV (CrystalVision 5000k 2800, +/- 450 lumens),
UNKNOWN PRODUCT 85126WX (6000k),
DISCONTINUED UK PRODUCT 85126UB (6000k), Upgraded to UK BlueVision

Philips Certificate of Authenticity (COA) is now available on every new xenon lamp package you order. Using the Security code, as well as other special security elements, professionals can verify the authenticity of the Philips product on a dedicated, fully secure internet platform. Professionals can either scan the QR code or go to www.philips.com/original.

So if it comes in a little white box or the box doesn't have that COA, then it's fake.



OSRAM:
Xenarc 66050 (4150k and 2800 lms Did not see this model available on their website),
Xenarc 66250 (4300K and 2800 lms Life Time B3/Tc = 2000\3000 hrs),
Xenarc 66250CBI "Cool Blue Intense" (4800K and 2800 lms, Life Time B3/Tc = 2000\3000 hrs) - the box on this one says up to 5500k?


BUDGET 5000k HID $40/EACH Recommended by a User on this Board, No Clue if they are any good.
D2R: MORIMOTO 3FIVE (5000k, 3000 lms, Life Time 2500 to 3000 hrs)

 

Osram Cool Blue Intense that's what I installed a couple of weeks ago

 

Haha, what a tease you are!! pics!!!

Read that it takes a certain number of hours for the bulb to settle it's color. 5 to 20 hours if I remember, maybe more. Anyway, what are your impressions compared to oem

 

This eBay seller apparently has a good rep on a lot of boards, but here's his response to a COA question.

Dear akinaboy,

please confirm authenticity of this product, will it ship in Philips sealed package as pictured with Certificate of Authenticity that I can verify with Philips?

New message from: akinaboy Top Rated Seller (10941YellowShooting Star)
We only sell real authentic philips bulbs. These bulbs donot come with any coa thing because it isnot used inthese bulbs yet but they do come with sealed case as shown on photo

He is selling them on eBay for $170… not much less than an authorized retailer, that is a lot of scratch. These guys are really making tons of money on this, fake bulbs with packaging are probably just a few dollars from China.

August 27, 2014 - ARMINGTON HILLS, Mich. – Philips Automotive North America, a division of Royal Philips, has developed special packaging to prevent piracy and protect customers from buying counterfeit Philips Xenon HID lighting. The new packaging design was announced by Ann-Marie Hines, senior marketing manager at Philips Automotive. Hines said Philips undertook the initiative because of the proliferation of counterfeit Philips Xenon HID lighting in the market.

The new packaging design employs a unique, state-of-the-art anti-counterfeit technology to ensure that customers are getting a genuine Philips product. Every Philips Xenon HID lighting package incorporates the Philips ‘Certificate of Authenticity,’ which features a security code and other special security elements that can be used to verify authenticity. To make sure they have a legitimate Philips Xenon HID lighting product, retailers, service professionals and consumers can either scan the QR code or go to www.philips.com/original and check the security code.

In making the announcement, Hines noted, “It is very important for us to protect our customers and our end-consumers, as well as our Xenon HID lighting brand. Philips is the inventor and world leader in Xenon HID lighting. We employ innovative technology, advanced materials, high-quality production and rigorous testing to ensure the performance and the quality of our Xenon HID products. These counterfeits are inferior to the true Philips design in both quality and performance. Furthermore, they are illegal to sell, purchase or possess.”

For more information about Philips Anti-Counterfeit Packaging, visit www.philips.com/original.

 

Had a few more conversations with ebay sellers, one fellow selling 85126+ who took a stern attitude with me after I explained to him Philips stopped making 85126+ over two years ago. LOL WHATEVER!!!

Philips.com list these as their authorized online sellers:
Amazon
Blain's Farm & Fleet
Bulbs.com
Cycle Gear
Kmart
KBcarstuff.com
Homedepot.com
Pacesetterproducts.ca
Pepboys.com
Sonic Electronix
Starr Lighting
Topbulb.com / Victoria Supply

I went to Amazon.com, found 5000k CrystalVision sold directly by Amazon supplied by Philips for $140 with a $10 Rebate and free shipping, making it $130. Picked those up with a set of Putco Jet Yellow for $29.99 (found them $6 cheaper somewhere else, but Amazon has a better return policy). Total with tax was around $180.

Only 2 sets of the Philips left. Link:

Will post pics when they come in.

 

I'm pretty sure member: fredtga has them, I believed he took them out of his C43, I actually saw them last week.

 

Putco didn't get here yet (I don't think anyone is worried about fake Putco LOL), but here is what you should be looking for if you order the CrystalVision 5000k.

 

Sweeet, let's see those bad boys installed!

 

I popped them in and I've got to apologize but my phone camera must really suck cause I couldn't take a decent picture of them, but I will give you my impression.

1. My old lights weren't that far off from each other but definitely not the same color or brightness. Keep in mind that the headlights point in different directions, that is the drivers side points down and the passenger side points straight out. This characteristic more likely than not makes one seem brighter than the other. On my car, the passenger side not only seemed a little brighter but also a bit bluer. Last week when I removed the passenger side, the metal clip unhooked with relative ease, this week when I removed the driver's side, the metal hook was very difficult to remove and even popped out of the housing, I had to grab a torque driver and reattach the metal clip because it popped off on one side.

Anyway, I put the new bulbs in and they are closer to temperature and brightness to one another than the last pair but you can see that the lights point in different directions and therefore the passenger is a bit brighter than driver. It is an improvement because the temperature of the bulbs is closer, not sure if one on my car was replaced in the last year or two.

I don't see much of a difference between the new bulbs and the old bulbs in temperature particularly between the passenger (which was brighter and bluer) and the new bulbs, as such there is a difference in the driver side.

So I believe it was worth the investment for me because my original bulbs were off from one another, but they are, in my opinion anyway, indiscernible between 85126 and 85126cx. So if your bulbs match don't bother spending the cash. Take it for what it's worth perhaps another would think differently.

 

Duplicate

 

Are those HIDS? What bulb?

Why does the white C43 look like the bulb isnt fully lighting up the headlight? But the Blue bulbs do?

 

Probably from the shield on the factory D2R bulbs. The 6000K blue ones (second pictured) does not have the shield and scatters the light far too much; essentially blinding oncoming drivers.

 

Makes sense, carry on mates.

 

So one of my fog lights has been out for a while and I wasn't really happy with the Putco Jet Yellows. Looking at these on E-Bay. I emailed the seller to find out if these are 60W consumption (don't want canbus error) and also if they come with a ballast. These look like a knock off but I'm not sure who the original manufacturer is.






ebay


Also for the interior dome lights which I blew by touching with my fingers while they were turned on (i know, something seriously wrong with me) because I've been pulling apart pieces for my headliner and also because I need a new sunroof switch and am also hoping to clean the thermostat thats up there (would I get a new thermostat if i order the new sunroof switch?),

I ordered this. I was going to order 4 sets, 2 in white, 1 red and 1 blue but then just ordered one to test first because i have no idea if this is the right lights.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122050533154?ul_noapp=true
speaking of right lights, i also thinking to do my cluster while im doing lights but not so sure because of all the buttons and everything. i have seen a few guy pull all the switches etc and change but idk if i want to get into that right now. i guess i want to pull all the wood in my car and stain it black, maybe that will be the right time to do cluster and buttons lights.

 

Those lights look like what Zayed talked about some time back, if I'm not mistaken.
Zayed where are you....

 

Hey Mickey! I've been running LEDs for the complete interior & license plate bulbs from SuperBrightLEDS.com for over 3 years now & not one issue. Perfect color matching 5000-5500k natural white & retains the dimming feature properly.

Let me know how the cluster/switch bulbs go if you do venture down that route.

Also, what do you mean thermostat up near the sunroof?

 

My LEDs shipped from China. Just hoping they are the right bulbs.

The thermostat for the climate control is up in that housing where the sunroof switch is. After so many years it is covered in dust and doesnt register the heat well.

Someone told me in another post that you cannot get the sunroof switch, that you have to get the whole unit which is expensive. But I did find the part no. for the sunroof switch 14082067 109051.

But before running out and getting a new switch, I read that the sunroof has to be programmed like the windows when you disconnect the battery and sometimes you have to program the sunroof 5 or 6 times to get it right. So StarD will tell you if the sunroof is programmed correctly or not. So I am waiting on my SD before ordering a new switch.

 

very cool stuff. the interior LED seller (linked above) confirmed what bulbs he is sending (would have been smarter to wait until he confirmed but w/e) here is what he is sending, i may buy additional kits now. $14 bucks for all this is a great deal.








Also the other seller respond to me, here was my Q:
Does this kit come with a ballast? What is power consumption? 60W?
If power consumption is less than 60W, do you have resistor kit?
Thanks

Here is his answer:
this is a plugs and play kit , no resistor needed

I just ordered a set, here is the link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291771839502?ul_noapp=true

 

i think this webshop specialized in high quality LEDS

http://www.aznoptics.com/

 

Pretty nice, I've used their LEDs in my city lights in my E55. Matched decently well & again, no issues. They are a vendor here.

 

Figured I'd attach this just in case it'd help others.

 

Hey Daniel,

Chinese cree copies not survive that much,, unless if using them as "high beam" only..!,,

prefer to use good quality LED's with flexible cooling copper heat sink, like "WeissLicht", instead of cooling fan..


"ZAYED"