Two poblems if you can help
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From: Bolingbrook Illinois
1999 C43 Amg
Two poblems if you can help
I'm having issues with my brakes. When I step on the brake pedal it acts as if the ground is wet and slippery. But the ground is very dry, kind of scary because the pedal goes down some more than it should. Happens only when stopping at 40 and up mph. I changed the brake fluid and it helped out a lot. But still doing it a little bit. Maybe flush the fluid again?
The other is the air pump. It kicks in once the temperature reaches 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Like clock work this happens. It turns on for about 2-3 seconds and off downwind stays off till the next morning. Thanks for any suggestions.
The other is the air pump. It kicks in once the temperature reaches 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Like clock work this happens. It turns on for about 2-3 seconds and off downwind stays off till the next morning. Thanks for any suggestions.
Last edited by speed43; Apr 14, 2016 at 01:22 PM.
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
I'm having issues with my brakes. When I step on the brake pedal it acts as if the ground is wet and slippery. But the ground is very dry, kind of scary because the pedal goes down some more than it should. Happens only when stopping at 40 and up mph. I changed the brake fluid and it helped out a lot. But still doing it a little bit. Maybe flush the fluid again?
The other is the air pump. It kicks in once the temperature reaches 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Like clock work this happens. It turns on for about 2-3 seconds and off downwind stays off till the next morning. Thanks for any suggestions.
The other is the air pump. It kicks in once the temperature reaches 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Like clock work this happens. It turns on for about 2-3 seconds and off downwind stays off till the next morning. Thanks for any suggestions.
A brake bleed takes a certain amount of time and fluid too. I use around 1.5lt of fluid for a fluid change and bleed and I recommend the use of a pressure brake bleeder, Motive Products for example: https://www.motiveproducts.com/
In my case, this method has given me a 100% success each and every time. Also with the pressure bleeder you can do away with the help of a "pedal pusher"
I would also check that your brake flex lines are not old and swelling under pressure. Best solution is to replace with SS flex lines. Some on here have gone to an upgraded master brake piston with good results too.
In all cases you don't want to fool around with brakes. Your life and that of others depend on an excellent working brake system at all time
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; Apr 15, 2016 at 05:23 AM. Reason: Tried and can't rotate the photo 90°...
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Bolingbrook Illinois
1999 C43 Amg
The brake feel on the c43 is certainly not of sports car level. Is does feel softish. However a full brake fluid change should be programmed every 2 years and even more often if you use the brakes hard or if the vehicle lives in a humid climate.
A brake bleed takes a certain amount of time and fluid too. I use around 1.5lt of fluid for a fluid change and bleed and I recommend the use of a pressure brake bleeder, Motive Products for example: https://www.motiveproducts.com/
In my case, this method has given me a 100% success each and every time. Also with the pressure bleeder you can do away with the help of a "pedal pusher"
I would also check that your brake flex lines are not old and swelling under pressure. Best solution is to replace with SS flex lines. Some on here have gone to an upgraded master brake piston with good results too.
In all cases you don't want to fool around with brakes. Your life and that of others depend on an excellent working brake system at all time
A brake bleed takes a certain amount of time and fluid too. I use around 1.5lt of fluid for a fluid change and bleed and I recommend the use of a pressure brake bleeder, Motive Products for example: https://www.motiveproducts.com/
In my case, this method has given me a 100% success each and every time. Also with the pressure bleeder you can do away with the help of a "pedal pusher"
I would also check that your brake flex lines are not old and swelling under pressure. Best solution is to replace with SS flex lines. Some on here have gone to an upgraded master brake piston with good results too.
In all cases you don't want to fool around with brakes. Your life and that of others depend on an excellent working brake system at all time
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 130
From: Bolingbrook Illinois
1999 C43 Amg
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Don't know about Centric, prefer "Lucas or ATE", as they're an OEM,,
is the one you have with pressure solenoid (at the bottom of M/C..?
It's not that hard to replace it, just remove the metal/solid pipes, then replace it, with good bleed process...
ZAYED,,
is the one you have with pressure solenoid (at the bottom of M/C..?
It's not that hard to replace it, just remove the metal/solid pipes, then replace it, with good bleed process...
ZAYED,,
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Bolingbrook Illinois
1999 C43 Amg
I have plenty of brake fluid left so going to flush and put in 1liter. I bought 2 liters but only used half of the liter which is probably why I'm still having the issue. Because before the flush I even had the abs light come in a few times. Now that is not happening anymore. And the system is 80% much better with just half a liter flush. So I'm hoping it will be 100% better after a whole liter flush.
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Air pump inject air for better Exhaust Emission,
this will provide oxygen>>oxidize un-burned and partially burned fuel in the Exhaust system,
sometimes it works 2>5 seconds, and sometimes 10>25 seconds,,
that depends to the O2 sensor air capacity though to the ECU..
ZAYED,,
this will provide oxygen>>oxidize un-burned and partially burned fuel in the Exhaust system,
sometimes it works 2>5 seconds, and sometimes 10>25 seconds,,
that depends to the O2 sensor air capacity though to the ECU..
ZAYED,,
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 130
From: Bolingbrook Illinois
1999 C43 Amg
Air pump inject air for better Exhaust Emission,
this will provide oxygen>>oxidize un-burned and partially burned fuel in the Exhaust system,
sometimes it works 2>5 seconds, and sometimes 10>25 seconds,,
that depends to the O2 sensor air capacity though to the ECU..
ZAYED,,
this will provide oxygen>>oxidize un-burned and partially burned fuel in the Exhaust system,
sometimes it works 2>5 seconds, and sometimes 10>25 seconds,,
that depends to the O2 sensor air capacity though to the ECU..
ZAYED,,
Than stays off till the next day. Mine does turn on in the morning than like you said after some seconds turns off. But mine also turns on at 80 degrees which the engine is warmed up. When it turns on at that degrees it makes my cars idle drop like it almost turns off the engine than quickly idles normal. I don't think that's normal because my other c43 never did that at all.
That air pump has a hard kick when it turns on. But you don't feel it because the idle is high on cold starts. But when the engine is already warm the idle is low/normal so when the air pump kicks on it puts a heavy load on the engine which makes it like it's going to turn off than 2 seconds later shuts off and idle is back to normal.
I'm going to have to google as to when the air pump turns on...
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
We don't have the worry of an air pump on European engines 
One thing less to go wrong!
One thing less to go wrong!
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 130
From: Bolingbrook Illinois
1999 C43 Amg
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 130
From: Bolingbrook Illinois
1999 C43 Amg
