DRBC43AMG

Started by flushing the cooling system. At least the water is yellow and absolutely clear

DRBC43AMG

I figured out that the securing clip needs to be assembled onto the MAF before dropping the part onto the throttle elbow.
I also ziptied the harness running behind the engine to the MAF. The harness was lowered to give some extra room to the enlarged airbox.

mickey13

I've gotten that clip on at after the MAF was in. You just have to kind of get it on there (slip it on sideways sort of) and then once its in place squeeze it hard. It will lock.

Either way should work though!

DRBC43AMG

A quick word which could help you and shorten the time needed when replacing your spark plugs.

I recommend that you remove the coil packs from the valve covers or at least push them up onto the intake manifold to give to a bit of extra room. Then install all the 16 plugs and torque them down to 28Nm of 21 ft.lbs as per specs. I use a shortish piece of plastic tubing (1ct worth...) which fits over the plug and helps you no end getting the plug into the cylinder head and screwing them down a good way in.
Starting from the rear of the engine push the leads onto each the spark plug, making sure which lead goes to which plug. Screw and torque down 15Nm the coil pack and pick the next in line. Work your way forward and I'm sure you will finish quicker and have more finger room to force those leads down onto the plug.

mickey13

Thanks. Waiting for them to get the 18 inches of snow off the ground and another one of those 70 degree days we seem to have every other week. I've got new wires as well, but I need the anti-seize gel and the boot protector grease, I'll definitely need some plastic tubing as well. I've got my air compressor to blow out the plugs as well. Hoping she is smooth as butter afterwards otherwise i'll tackle the O2 sensors next.

DRBC43AMG

I don't use anti-seize grease....

DRBC43AMG

Picked up the special fan removal tools from the dealer this morning. Really easy getting the fan free when you have the right tools and equipment

I then proceeded removing the fan shroud and then the radiator. Removed, cleaned up the area and reinstalled a new thermostat with a 87°c opening. Applied a smear of blue loctite on the two holding screws and torqued down to 20Nm.

Next job this afternoon will be looking for the oil leak...! This morning there was a drop of oil on the floor which had dripped of the compressor bracket screw. However getting a good clear view in that area will require removal of the A/C radiator. At the same time it will be a good moment to get everything cleaned up as there is a lot of gunk, leaves, etc.

DRBC43AMG

Now I have a clear view up front of the engine. The search for the oil leak is open

PJmak

Dear god

Definitely replace the part I mentioned and look into the oil cooler seal as well. Its a couple dollar part.

speed43

Mine leaked right there as well. They sell two different seals, closed in the middle an open. I got the wrong one which was closed I believe. But I just cut the opening and installed. Never leaked again.

DRBC43AMG

Yeah it probably does leak from there as the drops fall on to the compressor below and then crawls to the lowest point i.e. the bracket screw before falling on the floor
I guess a good clean first would be a good idea...

speed43

my ac compressor was wet like yours. Either way since you're there change the thing.

DRBC43AMG

So after browsing some M113 related videos this evening, I've decided that tomorrow's work will be to remove the serpentine belt. Once that is out of the way, I can easily check the water pump for play on the axle or any noise. If the result shows wear (I hope not, as it's a relatively expensive part), I'll replace the pump.

Secondly, I'll check the idler pulley for any wear or a noisy bearing. Again if I see or hear anything, I'll replace with a new one.

Thirdly, I'll do the checking also on the tensioner pulley. Here again any noise or wear = new one going in.

With the tensioner pulley removed, I'll have ease of access to clean all the gunk on the front and identify where the oil leak is coming from. I'll replace the gasket on the small rectangular plug, regardless with what I find.

I guess this is the perfect time to get everything checked and/or changed on the front when you have plenty of space to do it.

DRBC43AMG

So after browsing some M113 related videos this evening, I've decided that tomorrow's work will be to remove the serpentine belt. Once that is out of the way, I can easily check the water pump for play on the axle or any noise. If the result shows wear (I hope not, as it's a relatively expensive part), I'll replace the pump.

Secondly, I'll check the idler pulley for any wear or a noisy bearing. Again if I see or hear anything, I'll replace with a new one.

Thirdly, I'll do the checking also on the tensioner pulley. Here again any noise or wear = new one going in.

With the tensioner pulley removed, I'll have ease of access to clean all the gunk on the front and identify where the oil leak is coming from. I'll replace the gasket on the small rectangular plug, regardless with what I find. I'll also change the oil cooler gasket(s) too.

I guess this is the perfect time to get everything checked and/or changed on the front when you have plenty of space to do it.

speed43

You could have no play in water pump than a month or less it goes bad. That's what happened to mine. Great one day than after a 2 hour drive it makes noise and leaks. Easy to replace and costed me I think $130.00 for the pump. One bolt head broke on me and that made it an extra hour job.

Sulaco

I paid about $105USD for my water pump. Wasn't a hard job, either.

DRBC43AMG

This morning I removed the serpentine belt and removed the idle pulley and belt tensioner mechanism. Everything is pretty much worn out and on the way to a probable sudden death. So to avoid possible damages later and the need to remove everything in front to get to the parts, I'm going to change everything. In the meantime back to cleaning....

Two "noisy" videos for your listening pleasure

DRBC43AMG

I also had a close look at the harmonic damper to see if it had been changed since the build of the car.

From what I found on the net, the faulty balancers had the following part #:
A112 035 00 00
A112 035 06 00

Mine is stamped A112 035 14 00 and has seemingly a date 14.07.05 etched onto the flange. So looks like I'm on the safe side.

DRBC43AMG

So work today was to clean everything and remove the parts that are going to be changed. Big order with the local dealer 2 km down the road. Parts arriving tomorrow morning.
More news soon...

KJI3jflarryfe93

let me know which gasket you have on oil port?
old design hollow rectangular gasket or the new design gasket

DRBC43AMG

Sure will Denis

KJI3jflarryfe93

i saw your youtube vdeos.
your belt tensioner was never replaced before as you had the old style with the screw sticking out, is that called hex or allen bolt?

new design tensioners has the flat screw and the roller is made of plastic instead of metal like the old roller

my oil port gasket is the hollow rectangular 1st version design.
we used that oil port cover to connect the sender from oil pressure gauge

DRBC43AMG

Yeah, I recall your oil pressure pick up there. Old style indeed but it has lasted 18 yeats. The new ones have a 17mm head for a socket and wrench

DRBC43AMG

So what was cooking today??

I picked up the parts ordered and some are delayed till Tuesday. Oh well guess that's life.

The belt spring tensioner is the new version with the M17 head bolt for thatching a ratchet when you need to take off the pressure on the belt.

When I removed the water pump on of the torx bolts snapped. It was very rusty, so I guess there must have been some water ingress somewhere. I tried removing the broken bolt with an extractor with little success. So out came the drill and bits and I carefully drilled as close to the center of the broken bolt as possible and not going in more than 16mm (free length of the bolt). Then with successive tap, I made a new thread inside. Guess I will put plenty of loctite, or even glue in the hole when putting the new bolt. We will see if it holds a good water seal in that area. As I had some time and I am sometimes a bit a maniac, I cleaned all the water pump bolts with an appropriate threader.

I then replaced the two oil cooler seals and saw that now leakage was coming from that area. The seals were rather hard with age, so probably a good thing that new ones have gone back in.

The oil pressure port does indeed have a small leak, but probably more important when the engine is turning and oil pressure is built up. I removed the cover and discovered that the new seal delivered is the wrong one So that's a job which will have to be on hold till next week and when I get a new seal.

In the meantime, have a great week-end people and drive safely

KJI3jflarryfe93

thanks for showing me the gasket, we have the same hollow one