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if your car drives slow like grandpa using a walker?
it could be clogged injectors not giving enuff fuel?
have you tried with a bottle of which brew Motul cleaner poured in your tank when you're low on fuel below 30 litres?
low on fuel gives you a higher cleaning concentrate.
maybe you have a vacuum leak somewhere giving you issues?
ive had the injectors and fuel system cleaned yeah, and i only ever use BP 98 octane fuel which has cleaners in it.
it has been checked for vacuum leaks and none were found, but im putting in a brand new OEM intake manifold and two new Bosch knock sensors. The actuator on the manifold is working, but i dont know if the flaps are.
Before giving other people advice online on what to put through their car engines, please make sure you did your research and that youve done it your self.
Just coz you read somewhere that it works, doesnt mean its safe.
Ive talked to certified mercedes techs and they dont recommend running any of that stuff through your engine.
Before giving other people advice online on what to put through their car engines, please make sure you did your research and that youve done it your self.
Just coz you read somewhere that it works, doesnt mean its safe.
Ive talked to certified mercedes techs and they dont recommend running any of that stuff through your engine.
New intake manifold made little to no difference, knock sensors were both replaced at this time.
I recently replaced the spark plugs, 14 of them were fine, but the 2 plugs in cyl 7 were quite worn, the center electrode was worn away badly.
What would cause this?
There is minor smoke from the exhaust at wide open throttle, but i cant tell the colour. This could be oil, but the plugs did not show signs of burning excess oil.
New intake manifold made little to no difference, knock sensors were both replaced at this time.
I recently replaced the spark plugs, 14 of them were fine, but the 2 plugs in cyl 7 were quite worn, the center electrode was worn away badly.
What would cause this?
There is minor smoke from the exhaust at wide open throttle, but i cant tell the colour. This could be oil, but the plugs did not show signs of burning excess oil.
Replacing the plugs made very little difference.
There is no water in the oil.
Oil is Mobil 1 0w40 at the moment.
wow, so many parts replaced chasing this problem. Not that this would apply to you but there was a time where i would hit the gas and the engine would not accelerate like it should. I went through changing so many fuel/air parts only to find the potentiometer that was connected to gas pedal was loose! I cant wait to see what your actual problem was
wow, so many parts replaced chasing this problem. Not that this would apply to you but there was a time where i would hit the gas and the engine would not accelerate like it should. I went through changing so many fuel/air parts only to find the potentiometer that was connected to gas pedal was loose! I cant wait to see what your actual problem was
No i replaced a lot of those parts because they were old and past due for replacement. Not much has been thrown at this problem that was not likely to be getting beyond service life.
The throttle potentiometer was replaced a couple years ago and that made a BIG difference at the time, the previous one was original and when i tested it in my E55 it was sluggish in there too.
What throttle potentiometer..!?!, do you mean TB sensor (black one front of brake booster)..?,,
you can relearn the TB by, switch on the key (position 2) without starting, keep the key (position 2), go and be closer the TB, till you hear TB clicking,
then switch the key off, for 10 seconds, TB should be relearned,,
no need to waste more time & $$$, try to diagnose the car, codes will narrow the issue..!
What throttle potentiometer..!?!, do you mean TB sensor (black one front of brake booster)..?,,
you can relearn the TB by switch on the key (position 2) without starting, keep the key (position 2), go and be closer the TB, till you hear TB clicking,
then switch the key off, for 10 seconds, TB should be relearned,,
no need to waste more time & $$$, try to diagnose the car, codes will narrow the issue..!
What throttle potentiometer..!?!, do you mean TB sensor (black one front of brake booster)..?,,
you can relearn the TB by switch on the key (position 2) without starting, keep the key (position 2), go and be closer the TB, till you hear TB clicking,
then switch the key off, for 10 seconds, TB should be relearned,,
no need to waste more time & $$$, try to diagnose the car, codes will narrow the issue..!
-;ZAYED;-
the throttle position sensor is inside the metal cover on the side of the throttle body and cant be replaced.
The pedal position sensor is what i am refering to, and is mounted on the left side infront of the ECU, on the E55 it is on the right side infront of the brake booster.
i will try what you said about throttle learn. Thanks
1998 C43 AMG, 2000 Audi S4, 2001 Audi S4, 2007 Subaru Forester XT
I've had to replace my Accelerator Pedal Sensor (took 10 minutes), and 1 coil so far on my C43. The Pedal sensor cost me 120 bucks from FCP Euro, and the part arrived with a logo etched off. The MB part is like 700 dollars, and the FCP Euro part number pulls up as Hella on other sites. I ended up pulling a few coils from the junk yard and solved my misfire in Cylinder 4. I had a super rough idle and the car would begin to sputter between 500-1500 RPM when in reverse before swapping the coil. It took the car a few cycles to reveal a cylinder misfire. Seriously no codes? Has the car been scanned at an independent shop or dealer yet?
I've had to replace my Accelerator Pedal Sensor (took 10 minutes), and 1 coil so far on my C43. The Pedal sensor cost me 120 bucks from FCP Euro, and the part arrived with a logo etched off. The MB part is like 700 dollars, and the FCP Euro part number pulls up as Hella on other sites. I ended up pulling a few coils from the junk yard and solved my misfire in Cylinder 4. I had a super rough idle and the car would begin to sputter between 500-1500 RPM when in reverse before swapping the coil. It took the car a few cycles to reveal a cylinder misfire. Seriously no codes? Has the car been scanned at an independent shop or dealer yet?
Hope no vacuum leaks, or more air in fuel system..!,,
do you know if fuel filter is good, or not clogged, this could interrupted the FPR..!,,
did you check all these..?!?
-;ZAYED;-
funny thing is, if i take off fast and the traction control cuts power, when the power comes back on it is HUGE and the car takes off like a shot, but that is straight after traction control intervention.
Id imagine it works simular to GM traction control on the Delphi PCM the Corvettes had where there is spark retarding and throttle plate closure to reduce power, so obviously when the power is let back on it comes in very hard and the way i reckon it should be at all times when you floor it.
Sometimes its like when you floor it its more like 70% throttle, but after traction control has cut in its like full instant 100%.
I had bad hesitation about year ago, replaced everything, no check engine light, no codes,
after about two weeks, i discovered that fuel cap seal was sooooo bad, that builds much air in whole fuel system, and purge valve & vent valve were badly clogged,
I had bad hesitation about year ago, replaced everything, no check engine light, no codes,
after about two weeks, i discovered that fuel cap seal was sooooo bad, that builds much air in whole fuel system, and purge valve & vent valve were badly clogged,
03-22-2018, 06:24 AM
