C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

New Keys $600.00 Plus Problem

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Old May 9, 2019 | 11:36 PM
  #26  
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Just wanted to let you guys know I bought two OEM ballast for $37.00 shipped, used but really nice.
Just bought two more for my other car for future failure of the ballast. See link below the guy has 4 more left.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-OEM-Merc...pe!60618!US!-1
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Old May 9, 2019 | 11:38 PM
  #27  
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Old and ebay one. Old one was a PAIN to remove.


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Old May 10, 2019 | 05:50 AM
  #28  
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Originally Posted by speed43
Old and ebay one. Old one was a PAIN to remove.


Wowwww, if the hole was there and not torn and made when you unscrewed the bolt, guess you found the problem
Good job
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Old May 10, 2019 | 07:08 AM
  #29  
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Thanks. The hole was not there. That happened trying to remove the screw. I soaked it with a solvent and used a torch and it would not release. The other screw I just sanded the head off and removed the cover. I used one oem screw that did loosened easy and just found two other screws in the garage.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 10:53 AM
  #30  
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This morning the car turned on and turned right back off. Did this twice, the 3rd time it stayed on. Have to see if it does it again when my wife gets off work.

Question, I'm installing alpine radios on both c43's. I would really like to keep the feature where the oem radio turns off by itself after 40 or so minutes. Will it be possible to do this with the alpine radios? I'm thinking no but hoping yes.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 05:18 PM
  #31  
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any update on this speed?
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 06:29 PM
  #32  
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It has started to do the same thing again. But not as often but still does it.

Originally Posted by mickey13
any update on this speed?
Started to do it again, not as bad but still does it. We went back to using our old keys.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 06:40 PM
  #33  
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It’s an issue with the new keys not playing nice with the old EIS. The dealer wasn’t lying, you’ll have to replace the EIS to completely get rid of it.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 08:53 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Pedro Sanchez
It’s an issue with the new keys not playing nice with the old EIS. The dealer wasn’t lying, you’ll have to replace the EIS to completely get rid of it.
Maybe when the last original key dies. But for now it's not a need so will wait. I also feel that the infrared port on key is smaller than it should be. The original key is as twice as big. Almost like they did that on purpose so we need to change the EIS. Just a guess but I will be opening it up and see what I can do and than test it.
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 06:06 AM
  #35  
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CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT!!!!


Oh wait, they are only required to stock parts for 10 years right?


Originally Posted by speed43
Maybe when the last original key dies. But for now it's not a need so will wait. I also feel that the infrared port on key is smaller than it should be. The original key is as twice as big. Almost like they did that on purpose so we need to change the EIS. Just a guess but I will be opening it up and see what I can do and than test it.
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 12:50 PM
  #36  
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
So can you replace the EIS with one from another car(if you had a spare used part?)

Or does it need to be coded or what not to your vin

I bought a new key a few years back. The car has had starting issues since.

For the most part it starts but sometimes takes a few cranks or dies immediately.
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 05:32 PM
  #37  
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i think eis has to be new part from dealer. probably like 3 people in the whole world can reprogram one LOL
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Old Jun 29, 2019 | 12:18 AM
  #38  
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What do you guys think about this. Look at the picture, one is the old and other the new key. But are laying in the same position. The beams don't match positions. Could this be the problem why the new keys have issue with the EIS? Is infrared like a Lazer beam or does the beam expand expand. If the beam expands than I guess this does not cause the issue. But if it's a head on beam than the EIS has trouble locating the beam since it is way off compared to the old key.

Maybe the new EIS has the receiving end moved to match the new key? Hope I'm making sense.


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Old Jun 29, 2019 | 02:27 PM
  #39  
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Originally Posted by speed43
What do you guys think about this. Look at the picture, one is the old and other the new key. But are laying in the same position. The beams don't match positions. Could this be the problem why the new keys have issue with the EIS? Is infrared like a Lazer beam or does the beam expand expand. If the beam expands than I guess this does not cause the issue. But if it's a head on beam than the EIS has trouble locating the beam since it is way off compared to the old key.

Maybe the new EIS has the receiving end moved to match the new key? Hope I'm making sense.

Makes sense. I have some old kews that are newer style. Ill see if i can experiment with the laser location
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Old Jun 29, 2019 | 02:51 PM
  #40  
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I was wondering if I remove the front plastic window or whatever it's called. Will that maybe help spread the light better to the EIS? Does the infrared NEED that window? Or adding a small mirror in front of the infrared than another on the bottom to bounce the light to the correct place?
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 03:58 PM
  #41  
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Guys please try this with your remote. Add a piece of tape to the front of the remote. I know sounds dumb but it's been working each and every time for days. This morning I turned the car on and it stayed on every time 3x in a row. Than I removed the tape and the car turned on and shut off fast. Usually when this happens it take 2 more times for it to stay one. So I didn't try again, instead I added the tape again. And turned the car on and it stayed on. Did it a few more times and car stayed on.

The tape I used is of a yellows in color. It's masking tape I use on my air boxes when I prime them. But I think the ones they sell at home depot will also work if they have that color. White tape might be better too but I didn't have any.

Question, why is this working? My idea was to hopefully get the infrared signal to bounce so the EIS will read it better. Somehow it's actually doing that but not sure. Either way it's working. Let us know if you try this and if it worked for you.
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 04:10 PM
  #42  
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Hmm interesting find. Will try when I get home
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 04:29 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by speed43
.....

Guys please try this with your remote. Add a piece of tape to the front of the remote. I know sounds dumb but it's been working each and every time for days. This morning I turned the car on and it stayed on every time 3x in a row. Than I removed the tape and the car turned on and shut off fast. Usually when this happens it take 2 more times for it to stay one. So I didn't try again, instead I added the tape again. And turned the car on and it stayed on. Did it a few more times and car stayed on.

The tape I used is of a yellows in color. It's masking tape I use on my air boxes when I prime them. But I think the ones they sell at home depot will also work if they have that color. White tape might be better too but I didn't have any.

Question, why is this working? My idea was to hopefully get the infrared signal to bounce so the EIS will read it better. Somehow it's actually doing that but not sure. Either way it's working. Let us know if you try this and if it worked for you.
Masking tape works fine.
I've been doing this for years on all infrared keys. It allows for improved disbursement.
I thought most users knew about this already.
It improves the distance of fob use from your vehicle as the refraction of the clear plastic lens on the end slowly deteriorates over time.





Good for you speed43 for posting this and sharing it.
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 09:15 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by khomer2
Masking tape works fine.
I've been doing this for years on all infrared keys. It allows for improved disbursement.
I thought most users knew about this already.
It improves the distance of fob use from your vehicle as the refraction of the clear plastic lens on the end slowly deteriorates over time.





Good for you speed43 for posting this and sharing it.
Thanks. I don't understand this though. "It improves the distance of fob use from your vehicle as the refraction of the clear plastic lens on the end slowly deteriorates over time."

You mean the end of the remote key? If yes my keys are brand new so no deteriation. But this tape idea is working really Great. All day the car has been staying on. Hope pj got to try it so he can report back.

Also, I could not find one single thing about people using tape this way. Maybe those threads are gone, but Google showed nothing.
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 01:03 AM
  #45  
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pretty interesting. my new key seems to work ok - never had the car start and then shut - sometimes the car just wont start - think i could use some more grease on the flywheel though
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 11:19 AM
  #46  
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Maybe newer keys have thinner plastic in the front?

I tried this yesterday but still had a starting issue. Ill try again with thicker tape, the one I used was pretty cheap thin masking tape.

I have a few old keys, new and old style. Ill take them apart also and see whats going on. Also hopefully the guts can be transferred from new casing to old
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