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Very interesting. I'll try that. Really appreciate the info! I was unaware that engine noise was pumped into the cabin with the 2018 cars equipped with the PE.
Do you have any technical information where I can read up more on it, or a diagram?
That's great news. Glad to hear it, Sean. Thanks for all the updates and for taking the time to answer questions. My car is getting the lift test on August 5th.
Does the noise start when you let off the throttle, or when you are on the throttle to maintain speed?
Let off the throttle or coasting, using the engine data it’s most apparent between 30-50 lbs, sweet spot is at 80 mph, pretty annoying, I play my music pretty loud and surprised I even noticed it in the first place, thought it was road noise until I caught myself hitting the mute button to just hear the whirling noise
edit: also running PS3+ on 19s
Last edited by Bananamani; 07-26-2019 at 07:53 PM.
Let off the throttle or coasting, using the engine data it’s most apparent between 30-50 lbs, sweet spot is at 80 mph, pretty annoying, I play my music pretty loud and surprised I even noticed it in the first place, thought it was road noise until I caught myself hitting the mute button to just hear the whirling noise
edit: also running PS3+ on 19s
According to the other guys with confirmed differential issues, those sound like the exact symptoms. Have your dealer put it on a lift and recreate the conditions it occurs and they should hear it.
My noise only happens when I’m tipping into the throttle. It occurs for a few seconds, then disappears. And only occurs with the PE on. Still trying to diagnose.
According to the other guys with confirmed differential issues, those sound like the exact symptoms. Have your dealer put it on a lift and recreate the conditions it occurs and they should hear it.
My noise only happens when I’m tipping into the throttle. It occurs for a few seconds, then disappears. And only occurs with the PE on. Still trying to diagnose.
Just dropped it off at the dealership, will post findings once they reach out to me.
Very interesting. I'll try that. Really appreciate the info! I was unaware that engine noise was pumped into the cabin with the 2018 cars equipped with the PE.
Do you have any technical information where I can read up more on it, or a diagram?
Here’s a picture of a pre-facelift fusebox that’s been circulated quite a bit by now. The fuse box is in the trunk and the sound generator fuse is circled. Try pulling it and driving without it. Hopefully it solves your problem or makes it somewhat better.
Just dropped it off at the dealership, will post findings once they reach out to me.
Good luck man. Hope they sort it quickly for you.
Originally Posted by TModelle
Here’s a picture of a pre-facelift fusebox that’s been circulated quite a bit by now. The fuse box is in the trunk and the sound generator fuse is circled. Try pulling it and driving without it. Hopefully it solves your problem or makes it somewhat better.
Many thanks for taking the time to dig that up and share it. Incredibly helpful as this is my first time coming across this photo. Super straightforward - perfect.
AC: Blow was bad, replaced and sounds normal vibration free on the steering wheel
whirling noise: Dealer said they checked all the wheels suspension independently, and checked all the ball joins, they said “I guess it’s the tires” told them these tires are brand new, pretty sure it’s not the tires considering people switch to these tires specifically from the RF because of the better ride/noise. Will get the tires rebalanced and checked at the tire shop and then most likely back to the dealer.
AC: Blow was bad, replaced and sounds normal vibration free on the steering wheel
whirling noise: Dealer said they checked all the wheels suspension independently, and checked all the ball joins, they said “I guess it’s the tires” told them these tires are brand new, pretty sure it’s not the tires considering people switch to these tires specifically from the RF because of the better ride/noise. Will get the tires rebalanced and checked at the tire shop and then most likely back to the dealer.
Frustrating that they checked all the suspension components despite the fact that you very clearly told them the noise was connected to throttle application/sensitivity.
Drove a family member’s C300 tonight. She had just gotten the car back from a regular service interval (new pads, oil change, etc.). She wanted me to check and make sure everything felt right and adjust her tire pressure a bit (they always over-inflate due to reading the door sill values rather than gas cap; this C300 has the same wheels and tires as my C43 and recommended values are 36 all around).
Anyway, while I was driving, I noticed the *exact* same sound I randomly hear in my C43. Was able to recreate it under the same conditions I can in my C43 when it is happening. Coming from behind me.
Her car is super quiet with the turbo 4, and I was able to trace the noise a bit more easily. In my case, it seems to be coming from the area where the vents are feeding the rear passenger compartment.
Not going to worry about it anymore now I know where it’s coming from. Was probably hyper-sensitive after discovering this thread. The thread has been helpful though. All the folks that had the diffs replaced noticed the noise while coasting. That criterion helped me eliminate that cause and continue my observations.
Drove a family member’s C300 tonight. She had just gotten the car back from a regular service interval (new pads, oil change, etc.). She wanted me to check and make sure everything felt right and adjust her tire pressure a bit (they always over-inflate due to reading the door sill values rather than gas cap; this C300 has the same wheels and tires as my C43 and recommended values are 36 all around).
Anyway, while I was driving, I noticed the *exact* same sound I randomly hear in my C43. Was able to recreate it under the same conditions I can in my C43 when it is happening. Coming from behind me.
Her car is super quiet with the turbo 4, and I was able to trace the noise a bit more easily. In my case, it seems to be coming from the area where the vents are feeding the rear passenger compartment.
Not going to worry about it anymore now I know where it’s coming from. Was probably hyper-sensitive after discovering this thread. The thread has been helpful though. All the folks that had the diffs replaced noticed the noise while coasting. That criterion helped me eliminate that cause and continue my observations.
I think that's good news either way. Now enjoy the car!
I think that's good news either way. Now enjoy the car!
Thanks for all the help in troubleshooting along the way.
The noise appeared last night while driving in cooler (65 F) weather conditions. It only happens when lightly tipping into the throttle. The moment I take my foot off the gas, it disappears. Sounds like air whistling.
Finally, I decided to open up the hood and check all connections and noticed this:
It’s completely disconnected on one side. I can see daylight when shining my Surefire through the gaps. Whereas, on the other side, the fit is so flush I can barely get a fingernail in.
You can see where the attachment point was once fitted, but now the plastic piece is so warped that the tabs won’t connect.
Tried to pop it back into place. Only one tab will loosely clip in, leaving a gap on the other side.
With the volume of air that is supposed to come through that piece, and considering how easily I can flop it around with my hand, this loose duct component is probably vibrating like crazy under the hood (not to mention all the air that is whistling through the gaps at 50+ mph).
Damn, sorry to hear you had those issues and so much frustration. Glad you were able to finally get it resolved!
Thanks man! I'm very relieved now that it's over. Feels great to be able to fully enjoy the car again. I had been trying to correctly identify the source of the noise since May.
I'm disappointed in myself that I didn't check the engine bay sooner, especially considering the fact that the noise appeared the day I got my oil changed. It's just really tough diagnosing noise issues. After I discovered the disconnected duct this weekend, I went back and found a picture I took of my engine bay a few days after having the oil change service, and sure enough, the duct was disconnected in the photo. Better late than never!
It was so loose that air was whistling through the gaps between the mounting points. Furthermore, the air was causing the duct to bounce around and vibrate. I'm guessing the temperature ended up playing a role because the cooler/more dense the air was, the stronger/more violent the turbulence was in this area. The noise would disappear as I let off the throttle at higher speeds because the engine would start sucking in less air.
This thread ended up being super helpful in determining what to look for when troubleshooting.
you went to the dealer to have them push the duct half an inch to clip into place? lol
what??!
You obviously didn't read my other post. I tried to clip everything back into place myself when I discovered it. It wouldn't clip back into place. It had been wobbling around so long that it got a bit twisted.
Originally Posted by zibby43
Tried to pop it back into place. Only one tab will loosely clip in, leaving a gap on the other side.
With the volume of air that is supposed to come through that piece, and considering how easily I can flop it around with my hand, this loose duct component is probably vibrating like crazy under the hood (not to mention all the air that is whistling through the gaps at 50+ mph).
I'm more laughing at myself for waiting that long to check the engine bay. Dealer never even thought to check after months of trying to diagnose the noise issue.
AC: Blow was bad, replaced and sounds normal vibration free on the steering wheel
whirling noise: Dealer said they checked all the wheels suspension independently, and checked all the ball joins, they said “I guess it’s the tires” told them these tires are brand new, pretty sure it’s not the tires considering people switch to these tires specifically from the RF because of the better ride/noise. Will get the tires rebalanced and checked at the tire shop and then most likely back to the dealer.
Went to my go to tire and wheel shop they balanced the tires adding half ounce to 2 of the wheels. Whirling noise still present. Took it to another MB dealer (bigger one) they claim BOTH back wheels are slightly bent and can be seen wobbling when they run the car or put the tire on the rotator... They are trying to charge $400 to repair both which isnt too bad compared to wheel repair shops around the area, they did provide me a loaner for about 2 weeks now.. Im wondering why my tire shop didnt notice the bent wheels.... thoughts?
Went to my go to tire and wheel shop they balanced the tires adding half ounce to 2 of the wheels. Whirling noise still present. Took it to another MB dealer (bigger one) they claim BOTH back wheels are slightly bent and can be seen wobbling when they run the car or put the tire on the rotator... They are trying to charge $400 to repair both which isnt too bad compared to wheel repair shops around the area, they did provide me a loaner for about 2 weeks now.. Im wondering why my tire shop didnt notice the bent wheels.... thoughts?
You could always get a second opinion before taking them up on the offer.
As an update to my situation, now that my air duct has been reconnected and I don't hear air whistling and rattling from my engine bay on a daily basis, I can hear the whining noise from behind and underneath me all the time. Happens irrespective of gear (7th, 8th, and 9th) at speeds between 40-50 mph. Only happens when lightly applying the throttle (i.e., just enough to maintain speed). It's louder in cold conditions or when driving over concrete bridges, but now I can hear the noise all the time, even over talk radio.
As soon as I let off the throttle completely or accelerate hard, it goes away (temporarily). So, pretty much, the exact same conditions/symptoms described by Seanhfx, stockbmw, and others.
I visited my dealership today, described the symptoms, and shared a video of the noise. I'll be dropping my car off at the dealer on September 3rd to let the shop foreman replace the differential/whatever needs to be replaced after further examination of the car up on the lift.
I think it's possible that this issue affects quite a few cars, but those that always have the PE on, play music, or drive with the windows down may not hear it. Starting to get a fairly big group of folks with diff. issues on this board alone.
I just registered to thank you all for this useful thread and experiences exchange. I have brand new C43 and just hit 14kkm mark in 4 months. 3 Days ago I noticed the same noise coming from the back of the car.
I have service appointed at my dealer for tomorrow to determine the cause of the sound. Since it is one of only 4 AMG Brand Centers in the world, I believe there are some serious professionals that will take a look at this issue. Once they diagnose the problem I'll post back here with information. I bet we won't be surprised and a new differential will be ordered :P
I just registered to thank you all for this useful thread and experiences exchange. I have brand new C43 and just hit 14kkm mark in 4 months. 3 Days ago I noticed the same noise coming from the back of the car.
I have service appointed at my dealer for tomorrow to determine the cause of the sound. Since it is one of only 4 AMG Brand Centers in the world, I believe there are some serious professionals that will take a look at this issue. Once they diagnose the problem I'll post back here with information. I bet we won't be surprised and a new differential will be ordered :P
I think that would be the first '19 (at least in this thread) with the diff. issue. Mine is an '18. Good luck on getting your issue resolved! Sounds like the car is in good hands.
I think that would be the first '19 (at least in this thread) with the diff. issue. Mine is an '18. Good luck on getting your issue resolved! Sounds like the car is in good hands.
I'm just after drive with the mechanics and we all agreed that car should be lifted and wheels put in motion. Ladies and gentlemen, we have a verdict: shaft support bearing. They are replacing it right now and should be done in 3 hours. Will post back here with information once I take it for a test drive after replacement.
I'm just after drive with the mechanics and we all agreed that car should be lifted and wheels put in motion. Ladies and gentlemen, we have a verdict: shaft support bearing. They are replacing it right now and should be done in 3 hours. Will post back here with information once I take it for a test drive after replacement.
Did not make a difference. Request for new differential will be issued once they will record the sounds for factory. I will have time to let them do the recordings in 1,5 week so I will post back in probably 2-3 weeks after the swap is done.
Did not make a difference. Request for new differential will be issued once they will record the sounds for factory. I will have time to let them do the recordings in 1,5 week so I will post back in probably 2-3 weeks after the swap is done.
Thank you very much for sharing this information. My car is going in on September 3. Hoping to have an ETA on parts shortly thereafter.
The number of bad differentials now is eye-opening, at the very least.
Update: Car has been in the shop since last Tuesday (Sep. 3rd). Hopefully will know what work has been performed soon.
Have been in a '19 C300 loaner. Love the steering wheel controls and other minor tweaks on the '19s. The digital gauge cluster is very sharp.
I also love being able to see the tire temperature for each tire, in addition to the PSI. The ambient lighting is also a very nice touch. I don't even know if my '18 has ambient lightning.
07-26-2019, 06:50 PM
Better late than never!
