When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi, guys. I am very happy to post in this section for the first time.
The inaccuracy of the four-wheel alignment data after lowering the height of the car has driven me crazy recently. I have gone to a reputable modification shop for alignment, the mechanic told me he aligned as best as possible. I have put the align list in this thread on the top. For right now, my current steering wheel can't be centered. I have to tilt the steering wheel slightly to the left to get a straight line. (Sorry for the bad description, I am not a native English speaker.) Since our car can't adjust camber, and I noticed that there still have large total toes for my front and rear. (0.43 for up front and 0.47 for the back) This should be the reason why my car pulling to the right when the steering wheel is centered I guess? Are there any suggestions from you guys?
Should I go to them again to do alignment again? Where should I look for the accurate four-wheel alignment data after the body is lowered? To H&R?
I am sorry to ask so many questions. But I am looking forward to any reply!!!
Is it a slight pull to the right or like you have to constantly correct to keep from changing lanes?
Toe looks good, not sure why the car would pull with negative even camber, and the steering wheel should be adjusted independently of the camber when he is adjusting toe, though ive not looked at our suspension to see if its something overly complex.
I would try a different shop, but if there isnt a camber adjustment then all you can expect is a straight wheel and no pull. And .2-.4° out of spec isnt really much to be concerned with on a lowered car. you might eat through the inside tread of a tire faster, but we dont see 60k miles on tires with these cars anyways.
Also FWIW very slight movement to the right can be seen due to road angle to help with rain displacement. Also helps keep cars from running into oncoming traffic if a driver falls asleep/ dies etc. The road angle should move the car slightly towards the shoulder.
Your camber is fine but you need them to adjust the toe to 0. Trust me, I felt your pain and wasn't until after months of playing with settings and discussing with a number of specialists that I realized it was the toe that was causing the problem. Dont worry if MB will say it will be in the "red". Set toe to 0.
Is it a slight pull to the right or like you have to constantly correct to keep from changing lanes?
Toe looks good, not sure why the car would pull with negative even camber, and the steering wheel should be adjusted independently of the camber when he is adjusting toe, though ive not looked at our suspension to see if its something overly complex.
I would try a different shop, but if there isnt a camber adjustment then all you can expect is a straight wheel and no pull. And .2-.4° out of spec isnt really much to be concerned with on a lowered car. you might eat through the inside tread of a tire faster, but we dont see 60k miles on tires with these cars anyways.
Also FWIW very slight movement to the right can be seen due to road angle to help with rain displacement. Also helps keep cars from running into oncoming traffic if a driver falls asleep/ dies etc. The road angle should move the car slightly towards the shoulder.
It's like a slight pull to the right if I keep my steering wheel straight, I think I should go to their location again to fix my toe angle so that makes it closer to 0? Then ask them to re-correct the steering wheel?
Your camber is fine but you need them to adjust the toe to 0. Trust me, I felt your pain and wasn't until after months of playing with settings and discussing with a number of specialists that I realized it was the toe that was causing the problem. Dont worry if MB will say it will be in the "red". Set toe to 0.
Since I live in Alabama, there's nothing in my area. Every time I need to dive to 200 miles away to Georgia to find some "reputable" auto shop.
Actually, there is one MB dealership in my area, but they told me that because my car is too low and I have my aftermarket front lip, they can't lift my car, which sounds stupid. Should I continue to seek a modification store or find a dealer to adjust my toe?
That's right...... you can't adjust Camber front or rear (or front Caster) to change tire contact angles.
Often quoted, re assuring - "FULL FOUR WHEEL ALIGNMENT" IS ONLY BASIC TOE DIRECTIONAL ADJUSTMENT!
It has been brought about by the "ever increasing" speed of Auto assembly lines.
We saw the need therefore to re instate from the 90's once again, full front and rear adjustment.
Resolving costly "extra load/wear" (and premature failure) on the inside edge of tires.
Catering for day to day commuting - encountering high cambered roads. Typical "wheel squat" through altered hight - load carrying or lowering. Fitting wide profile tires/wheels. With "Caster" adjustment to compensate for the new Camber settings (and also to correctly resolve steering pull). Along with "ongoing" adjustment capability for curb knock damage.
Fixing it right the first time. Instead of repeated trips to dealers or alignment shops or constantly changing tire brands in the belief that somehow, this will alter the inner edge tire wear.
The unique K-MAC patented design adjustment system is a "precise single wrench". Revolutionizing how the adjustment is made.
This invention allows adjustment to be made fast, accurately (under vehicle load) - direct on alignment rack.
Front and rear kits at the same time replace the 4 highest wearing suspension bushings (first items to fall)
To minimize fitment time Current Generation Kits, besides extra adjustment, bush extraction tools included so front and rear control arms do not need removal - only the two front thrust arms for Caster.
C43 AMG, C300-450 (4 MATIC)
Front Camber & Caster kit #503416 K $480 Rear Camber (& extra Toe) #502226 K $480
Also manufactured uprated bush kit for the 6 multi link rear arms- less twitch/flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change/overtake #502628K $480