Were you able to get the check engine light to go away?

 

not yet. I reopened it and checked everything and it looks good. Hopefully it’ll work itself out. I booked a service appointment on Monday just in case

 

I find it to be a cleaner set up and no need to cut your engine cover. Other than that they probably do the same thing

 

I liked the fact that it’s a cleaner set up without the need to cut the cover.

ill make some videos on the weekend and share.

 

You don't have to cut your engine cover if you just remove it. If you wanted to make it stock again theres always one of those engine covers for sale on Ebay. I'll sell you mine if you want it

I think the BMS intake air filters are in the better spot in the engine bay and I think the BMS sounds a lot better too.

 

Definitely cleaner. And thanks!

Heard BMS has a much better sound as well. There's one guy who installed MST then immediately took it off as the sound [to him] was unbearable. Toilet swoosh was the comparable sound. 🤷🏽‍♂️

 

I think you are really splitting hairs between the two. I don't mean to discourage anyone from buying the MST or encourage anyone to buy the BMS. It is just from an engineering standpoint I like how the BMS is set up just a tad better. I took the engine cover out anyways because I don't think it adds any value except just takes up space and maybe even captures more heat inside the bay.

 

It guides air to cool the engine control unit.

 

Correct, and MST let’s you retain the two intake channels for the air filter.

if we have a scientist here perhaps they can tell us which intake will get more cold air. The one with direct channels or the one without? 🤔

 

Well, there are no definitive answers to this, but those of us who have or have had BMS and MST have observed higher intake air temps than the original airbox. Looking at the design, it is obvious why. However, the performance gains are immediate noticeable. So, really, there's no perfect air intake.

 

So, even though the air temp is higher, you are getting more of it, which results in the performance gains? Is that correct?

 

I suppose that is one way putting it, yes. Some observed higher temps even when running/moving.

 

One point to note, BMS has bigger intake pipes.

 

Thanks, just trying to understand how it works and this helps

 

how much bigger?

 

I have not measured them, and there is no published info, but they are quite a bit larger.

 

What kind of gains can you expect from a JB4 on a 2020 c43? (ballpark)

 

Nobody knows for sure cos nobody has measured yet.

Maybe check with batman719, he’s doing a dyno run with JB4 in July.

 

Confirmed, but note that mine is a 2019 vs 2020 (if that matters to you)

 

Does the JB4 read and clear CEL’s

 

2020 has a few more HP from the factory (bigger turbos I think) just curious if it's worth the $ over EC

thx
-Murder-

 

There's a guy that made a video showing how he wrapped the pipes and heat shield in heat resistant wrap and it lowered the overall temps by 10+ degrees Fahrenheit. I thought it was pretty interesting.

 

I’m really not sure how informative the video is seeing as how he takes the temperature of the outside of the pipe that he has put the foil over. It’s bound to be cooler cos of the foil, but that’s not really relevant. Also he takes the temp of the air filter. Why? What’s more relevant would be the intake air temperature or the temperature of the inside of the pipe.

 

Agreed. This guy is also a member of this forum who posted a grand total of once with a cringe-worthy video that made it clear he doesn't really know what he's doing.

I've been wrapping pipes for years in motorcycle racing. In that scene, the goal is not to reduce intake temps, but to reduce heat felt by the rider. Wrapping pipes (whether they be headers, midpipes or tailpipes) prevents heat from escaping the pipe before exhaust, but it does nothing to change the IAT.

 

2020's have the same power ratings (385 HP / 384 TQ) as the 2019s. The PFL 2018s and prior were rated at 367/384.

When you say "worth the $ over EC," JB4 is less expensive than EC. However, there is no way the JB4 will make more power. EC is a proper ECU tune whereas JB4 is a piggyback.