‘20 C43 sedan - down on power - no codes . . .
The following users liked this post:
zibby43 (09-18-2020)
#77
Was told by SA that they recommend I continue to drive the car until I pass the break-in threshold of 1000 miles, before bringing it in to investigate the power loss further.
Which suggests 1 of 3 things: 1) The short-shifting in the automatic modes is some kind of software that keeps the revs down until the break-in period is achieved (I find that unlikely, as I haven't seen any information that would confirm this); 2) They just want the break-in to be over before they continue beating on it in the shop, replicating my problem; 3) They are punting on 3rd down.
Which suggests 1 of 3 things: 1) The short-shifting in the automatic modes is some kind of software that keeps the revs down until the break-in period is achieved (I find that unlikely, as I haven't seen any information that would confirm this); 2) They just want the break-in to be over before they continue beating on it in the shop, replicating my problem; 3) They are punting on 3rd down.
The following users liked this post:
zibby43 (09-18-2020)
#78
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
For the first 640 miles, I adhered to the break-in perfectly. Lots of city driving to go up and down the gears, and on the highway, I always made sure to vary the top 3 cruising gears. I've only started beating on it a bit to figure out this power issue the past 140 miles. And only when the oil and transmission temperatures were where they need to be.
My eyes are so fixed on the HP gauge and speedo, I haven't paid as much attention to what's going on with the revs.
The fact that I can get to the 370+ mark doing 5th gear pulls in M suggests to me the car is getting enough air, etc. So I am leaning software right now. They seemed to reset the AMG Drive Unit to clear the low voltage fault code (which cleared my preferences on the AMG Drive Unit components on the steering wheel), but I wonder if something is still stored in other systems, as all of my other functions (seat positions, BT connectivity) remained unaffected after the battery replacement.
I 100% know now that my original battery was faulty on delivery. The day after the car was delivered, I already was at "Partly Charged" status. The new 12V battery has remained "Charged" every single day.
#79
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Drove 50 or so miles today.
This time I alternated between paying attention to the revs and the power output in C and S+ modes.
Car is clearly revving past 5k when WOT + kickdown. Was never able to break 300 horsepower on the Engine Data screen doing 0-60 an 5-60 runs.
This time I alternated between paying attention to the revs and the power output in C and S+ modes.
Car is clearly revving past 5k when WOT + kickdown. Was never able to break 300 horsepower on the Engine Data screen doing 0-60 an 5-60 runs.
#80
What's your 0-60 time? 4.5s or 5+?
#81
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Great question and you anticipated one of my next two steps tomorrow. Going to test 0-60 from a dead stop with moderate brake boosting, while also taking extended video footage of the Engine Data screen.
It feels like 5+ seconds. I just don't get it. They tested for boost leaks when I had the battery replaced, and I can actually make the car pull like it should when doing 5th gear M pulls on the highway, but where the car *should* feel the strongest, in the low and midrange pulls in S+, it feels like I have boost for a few tenths of a second and then all the boost, power, and torque bleed away and the car sounds like a NA engine revving.
Like everything cuts out. Absolutely no ESP lights, and ambient temperatures/road conditions were perfect tonight.
It feels like 5+ seconds. I just don't get it. They tested for boost leaks when I had the battery replaced, and I can actually make the car pull like it should when doing 5th gear M pulls on the highway, but where the car *should* feel the strongest, in the low and midrange pulls in S+, it feels like I have boost for a few tenths of a second and then all the boost, power, and torque bleed away and the car sounds like a NA engine revving.
Like everything cuts out. Absolutely no ESP lights, and ambient temperatures/road conditions were perfect tonight.
#82
Great question and you anticipated one of my next two steps tomorrow. Going to test 0-60 from a dead stop with moderate brake boosting, while also taking extended video footage of the Engine Data screen.
It feels like 5+ seconds. I just don't get it. They tested for boost leaks when I had the battery replaced, and I can actually make the car pull like it should when doing 5th gear M pulls on the highway, but where the car *should* feel the strongest, in the low and midrange pulls in S+, it feels like I have boost for a few tenths of a second and then all the boost, power, and torque bleed away and the car sounds like a NA engine revving.
Like everything cuts out. Absolutely no ESP lights, and ambient temperatures/road conditions were perfect tonight.
It feels like 5+ seconds. I just don't get it. They tested for boost leaks when I had the battery replaced, and I can actually make the car pull like it should when doing 5th gear M pulls on the highway, but where the car *should* feel the strongest, in the low and midrange pulls in S+, it feels like I have boost for a few tenths of a second and then all the boost, power, and torque bleed away and the car sounds like a NA engine revving.
Like everything cuts out. Absolutely no ESP lights, and ambient temperatures/road conditions were perfect tonight.
#83
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
That's super helpful to know, as I have the digital cluster. I didn't know if Track Pace was required for that function.
I'm guessing it's under the AMG menu? I have seen the lap timer when messing around, but I usually keep it on fluid temps (left) and tire temps (right).
I'm guessing it's under the AMG menu? I have seen the lap timer when messing around, but I usually keep it on fluid temps (left) and tire temps (right).
#84
Junior Member
Was told by SA that they recommend I continue to drive the car until I pass the break-in threshold of 1000 miles, before bringing it in to investigate the power loss further.
Which suggests 1 of 3 things: 1) The short-shifting in the automatic modes is some kind of software that keeps the revs down until the break-in period is achieved (I find that unlikely, as I haven't seen any information that would confirm this); 2) They just want the break-in to be over before they continue beating on it in the shop, replicating my problem; 3) They are punting on 3rd down.
Which suggests 1 of 3 things: 1) The short-shifting in the automatic modes is some kind of software that keeps the revs down until the break-in period is achieved (I find that unlikely, as I haven't seen any information that would confirm this); 2) They just want the break-in to be over before they continue beating on it in the shop, replicating my problem; 3) They are punting on 3rd down.
That being said, it seem like there was a substantial learning curve that the ECU/TCU had to go through to adapt to my driving (or the other way around). The car definitely behaved weirdly/unexpectedly in a few different driving situations that initially had me nervous, but it all seems to be worked out now.
The following users liked this post:
zibby43 (09-25-2020)
#85
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I just made it through the 1k mile break in period on my 2020 coupe. I can confirm there was no limiter on the power output or RPM's during this time.
That being said, it seem like there was a substantial learning curve that the ECU/TCU had to go through to adapt to my driving (or the other way around). The car definitely behaved weirdly/unexpectedly in a few different driving situations that initially had me nervous, but it all seems to be worked out now.
That being said, it seem like there was a substantial learning curve that the ECU/TCU had to go through to adapt to my driving (or the other way around). The car definitely behaved weirdly/unexpectedly in a few different driving situations that initially had me nervous, but it all seems to be worked out now.
#86
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Finally did some proper runs today after driving the car around in S+ for about an hour. Just letting the car get used to shifting more aggressively before starting. Just shy of 850 miles, so I don’t think beating on it a bit with the fluids warmed up is an issue.
Did a few 0-60 runs with my fiancée as a passenger (she did manual timing with the stopwatch on her iPhone), as there was no 0-60 timer in the absence of the Track Pace option (at least that I could find).
Started from a dead stop (no brake boosting), ESP off, and fiancée started timer when we started moving. She stopped when I called out 60.
4.9s on the first try. Given the reaction time between calling out 60 and her pressing stop (about 4 or 5 tenths judging on the average time she can start and stop the timer when moving), and using the slowest launch method of not brake boosting at all, I would say I was hitting 4.4s by just mashing the gas from a stop in S+.
Noticed I was hitting about 311 hp on the 0-60 runs, but 384 lb-ft on the torque meter every single time.
Just think you’re not going to see maxed out hp figures unless you’re really burying the throttle in a higher gear up beyond 60 mph.
Car felt like it was alive for the first time since the low voltage code/battery replacement.
Did a few 0-60 runs with my fiancée as a passenger (she did manual timing with the stopwatch on her iPhone), as there was no 0-60 timer in the absence of the Track Pace option (at least that I could find).
Started from a dead stop (no brake boosting), ESP off, and fiancée started timer when we started moving. She stopped when I called out 60.
4.9s on the first try. Given the reaction time between calling out 60 and her pressing stop (about 4 or 5 tenths judging on the average time she can start and stop the timer when moving), and using the slowest launch method of not brake boosting at all, I would say I was hitting 4.4s by just mashing the gas from a stop in S+.
Noticed I was hitting about 311 hp on the 0-60 runs, but 384 lb-ft on the torque meter every single time.
Just think you’re not going to see maxed out hp figures unless you’re really burying the throttle in a higher gear up beyond 60 mph.
Car felt like it was alive for the first time since the low voltage code/battery replacement.