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I have a 2016 c450 AMG and have lowered it on H&R sedan lowering springs. Since then I have gone through a set of tires because I didn’t get an alignment. After replacing the tires to Pirelli P7 225/45/18(front) 245/40/18(rear) I went to get an alignment and the tech was only able to adjust the front as rear had no camber adjustment left.
To prevent buying ANOTHER set of tires is there a aftermarket rear camber adjustment I can purchase to have the rear alignment done properly?
I installed their front and rear kits on my previous c43 to get back to factory alignment specs after lowering. There's other options as well but I can't remember the company names...
I installed their front and rear kits on my previous c43 to get back to factory alignment specs after lowering. There's other options as well but I can't remember the company names...
do you have part numbers? I just need for the rear as the front had no issues during alignment.
It’s typically not camber that produces premature tire wear. Chances are it’s your toe settings. Make sure they’re set as close to 0 as possible. Factory MB specs include negative toe.
Greatly appreciated!
Would you recommend both front and rear since all four corners are lowered? Will a alignment be necessary again after installation?
Greatly appreciated!
Would you recommend both front and rear since all four corners are lowered? Will a alignment be necessary again after installation?
If you're not having issues with the fronts I'd just do the rears. The adjustable bushings are great but the install was pretty costly. Unfortunately in my case less than 6 months after having the work done someone hit my car and totaled it. I decided against it this time around as I have a few set of wheels and tires. If I could do the install myself I'd probably do it again.
Here's what my old c43 looked like with the front and rear bushings... lowered and back to factory alignment specs
I barely had premature wear from camber. My tires needed replacing and when I did them they were about 10% more worn towards the inner edge. My car is low and my tire diameter is larger than factory spec - which attributes to the problem even more.
It’s typically not camber that produces premature tire wear. Chances are it’s your toe settings. Make sure they’re set as close to 0 as possible. Factory MB specs include negative toe.
no on this ( and many other cars) there is no camber adjustment.
when lowering the camber increases significantly and many owners report the inner shoulders wearing prematurely as a result.
no on this ( and many other cars) there is no camber adjustment.
when lowering the camber increases significantly and many owners report the inner shoulders wearing prematurely as a result.
Do some research. It’s toe thats a greater impact on premature inner tire wear. Lowering exasperates the toe scrub due to increased camber, but focusing on reducing the camber alone will not relieve the problem without also dialling out the toe. In most cases, reducing toe to 0 will have a greater impact on tire life than reducing camber.
If you're not having issues with the fronts I'd just do the rears. The adjustable bushings are great but the install was pretty costly. Unfortunately in my case less than 6 months after having the work done someone hit my car and totaled it. I decided against it this time around as I have a few set of wheels and tires. If I could do the install myself I'd probably do it again.
Here's what my old c43 looked like with the front and rear bushings... lowered and back to factory alignment specs
do you have spacers installed with this setup?
I know MB spec on the 450 has negative camber.. same for the 43?
Do some research. It’s toe thats a greater impact on premature inner tire wear. Lowering exasperates the toe scrub due to increased camber, but focusing on reducing the camber alone will not relieve the problem without also dialling out the toe. In most cases, reducing toe to 0 will have a greater impact on tire life than reducing camber.
Driving the car today I noticed the car was pulling a little to the left when the steering was straight. Went back to the alignment shop after work and he corrected the front. I again asked about the rear and he said he corrected TOE but no camber adjustment left.
He recommend a camber adjustment arm. Is this an alternative setup as to the KMAC bushing setup?
Driving the car today I noticed the car was pulling a little to the left when the steering was straight. Went back to the alignment shop after work and he corrected the front. I again asked about the rear and he said he corrected TOE but no camber adjustment left.
He recommend a camber adjustment arm. Is this an alternative setup as to the KMAC bushing setup?
“corrected toe” does that mean MB spec or 0 toe? MB spec has some negative toe so you want to be sure the shop is taking all the toe out. If so, I’d drive the car like that for a while and check the tire wear before spending $$ on camber adjustment.
“corrected toe” does that mean MB spec or 0 toe? MB spec has some negative toe so you want to be sure the shop is taking all the toe out. If so, I’d drive the car like that for a while and check the tire wear before spending $$ on camber adjustment.
if I remember correctly he said all he could adjust in the rear was TOE but I’m not sure how much.
lets just say the alignment in the front is fine. All he was able to adjust in the rear for alignment was the toe. He said there was 3 degree camber.
does anyone have MB spec for alignment? Will the alignment be able to get to MB spec once lowered?
if I remember correctly he said all he could adjust in the rear was TOE but I’m not sure how much.
lets just say the alignment in the front is fine. All he was able to adjust in the rear for alignment was the toe. He said there was 3 degree camber.
does anyone have MB spec for alignment? Will the alignment be able to get to MB spec once lowered?
Your technician is correct, all he will be able to adjust in the rear would be toe. The toe adjustment maxes out at a certain point. What they’re really trying to do is just get it as close to 0.0° as possible. There is a cheaper way, if your alignment shop is willing to do it. They can pull the rear lower control arm. However, camber and toe are related when it comes to adjusting so you’re really just limited to where the toe maxes out. You can pull the arm to 1.0° camber but your toe won’t be close to 0°. Between camber and toe, I’d rather the toe be correct than the camber.
This is what I did with mine. I’m lowered on h&r sport springs in the rear but, I have h&r VTF springs up front. I won’t go in too deep on that unless you really wanna find out why. Anyways, back to your concern. The rear control arm has an elongated hole which locks the bolt in place with a notch. You can grind the notch down so it allows the rear lower control arm to be pulled inwards. You’ll be able to get it close to spec with all parameters within MB spec tolerance. The fronts though, will still be out of camber spec... but, toe will be good and still tolerable because you steer the wheels anyways.
If I had $1,000 to spare plus labor to install, I’ll get those k-Mac in a heartbeat! But, for now it’s been fine and I’ve had the lower control arms pulled for 4 years...
Granted that I only have 11k mi. on my ’17 C43 and have switched tire and wheel setups 2x, I’m totally fine with it being this way.
This shows you the notch which you need grind.
These were my alignment specs when I still had h&r sport springs f/r.
This is my most current spec after I had h&r VTF springs installed up front and kept the sport springs in the rear.
This is as close as we could get to MB spec on my setup.
If you're not having issues with the fronts I'd just do the rears. The adjustable bushings are great but the install was pretty costly. Unfortunately in my case less than 6 months after having the work done someone hit my car and totaled it. I decided against it this time around as I have a few set of wheels and tires. If I could do the install myself I'd probably do it again.
Here's what my old c43 looked like with the front and rear bushings... lowered and back to factory alignment specs
imma upload a pic of my rear camber. Do you think this bushing will fix it?
Hey! Im having the same issue, installed H&R springs last weekend and im getting negative camber on the rear did you happen to resolve this and mind if you could share what route you went to fix your camber?
I have a 2016 c450 AMG and have lowered it on H&R sedan lowering springs. Since then I have gone through a set of tires because I didn’t get an alignment. After replacing the tires to Pirelli P7 225/45/18(front) 245/40/18(rear) I went to get an alignment and the tech was only able to adjust the front as rear had no camber adjustment left.
To prevent buying ANOTHER set of tires is there a aftermarket rear camber adjustment I can purchase to have the rear alignment done properly?
All information would be greatly appreciated!
Hey! did you end up fixing your rear negative camber? Im having the same issue and having no lead where to start, have no idea what these 'kmac bushings' do or how they work
When it comes to resolving costly, premature edge tire wear we manufacture a TOTAL SYSTEM.
Currently OEM there is only Front and Rear Toe "directional" adjustment.
Can adjust Toe all you want and it is not going to resolve uneven tire wear - example excess right hand side edge wear brought about through high cambered roads (all align tech can state is "have adjusted Toe within factory specs" - but the uneven wear still persists).
Camber adjustment is essential "ALLOW TO ADJUST TIRE CONTACT ANGLES - SPREAD LOAD MORE EVENLY).
C450 / C43 AMG:
FRONT CAMBER KIT #503416-1G $345(Both Sides)
Less cost then one Hi-performance tire.
REAR CAMBER (and Extra Toe) #502226K $480 Both above kits simply replace the lower arm inner bushings. Can fit without need for arm removal.
KMAC unique patented design allows precise single wrench adjustment. Accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack FIXING IT RIGHT THE 1ST. TIME.
Best Regards, Kevin
See Spoiler Re Complete Range Adjuster Kits for C450/C43 AMG
Spoiler
ALSO MANUFACTURED - FRONT SUSPENSION:
#503416 $480 (Both Sides)Camber & also Caster adjustment for the 1st time. Caster bushes are Monoball / 2 Axis. Instead of soft rubber oil and air voided OEM bushings. Significantly improving brake and steering response. Above P/N replaces the 4 lower arm inner (highest wearing) bushings. At same time are precise single wrench adjustable. Accurately (under load - direct on alignment rack).
#503316-2 $380 (Both Sides) Camber & Caster adjustable Upper ’A’ arm inner bushings - retaining the OEM forged alloy arms (does require strut removal on Airmatic models).
ALSO MANUFACTURED - REAR SUSPENSION:
#502226-1 $595 (Both Sides) Upper adjustable Camber arms (and extra Toe adjustment).
NOTE: “Lower” arm front and rear kits retain important clearance top of tire to outer fender, while upper arms reduce this clearance when wanting to adjust to resolve premature, inner edge, tire wear.
#502628 $480 Uprated bushings for the ’6’ rear multi link arms. Less twitch / flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake.
Delivery $40 one kit $20 each extra.
AUDI to VOLVO - KMAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964!
10-05-2020, 07:00 PM
did you happen to resolve this and mind if you could share what route you went to fix your camber?
